First Wort Hopping works the same no matter how you mash, because it has nothing to do with the mash tun. You put hops in the kettle and run off into the kettle. That has nothing at all to do with whether you've got a false bottom or BIAB setup.
Remember: grain go in mash-tun; hops go in kettle.
Hope this helps!
Bob
So, they are added to the mash and steped while you are sparging the grains? Do they have to be removed at all? Sorry for all the questions.
Eric
But the kettle is the mash tun in BiaB.
I put them in the kettle as soon as I lift the bag out.
But the kettle is the mash tun in BiaB
There you go! Problem solved, question answered.I've never FWHed a BiaB, but I'd do it right after you pull the grain bag out.
Since FWH gives you all the bitterness of a 60 minute addition and some of the flavor of a late addition I'd move the 60 min addition to FWH and leave the rest the same.
I don't think that's quite right. I'm fairly sure that FWH-ing slightly increases the IBUs, but because it gives a less harsh bitterness it can come across as smoother and less kick-you-in-the-face bitter than non-FHW beers. The FWH beers I've done have all been plenty bitter.I'm not sure that that's right.
I've read that the bittering contribution of FWH is closer to that of a 20 minute addition.
You'll need more hops at FWH to equal that of a 60 minute addition. I think you'd need closer to 1.5 oz FWH to equal the bittering of your 60 minute addition... Could be wrong though...
I'm not sure that that's right.
I've read that the bittering contribution of FWH is closer to that of a 20 minute addition.
You'll need more hops at FWH to equal that of a 60 minute addition. I think you'd need closer to 1.5 oz FWH to equal the bittering of your 60 minute addition... Could be wrong though...
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