BierMuncher said:
I bet mine fires up in late July. I'm scheduled to brew for the club that month, and I was planning on doing an AIPA for the November IPA meeting. That should make a perfect yeast cake for this 999 bad boy.
TL
I'm Thinking... 09/09/09 Barleywine
- Thread starter BierMuncher
- Start date
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I bet mine fires up in late July. I'm scheduled to brew for the club that month, and I was planning on doing an AIPA for the November IPA meeting. That should make a perfect yeast cake for this 999 bad boy.
TL
Sweet I'm in...... (PM sent)...
This kind of brew is what my 20 gal MLT is built for. Heck that grain bill is no different then my normal brew. The only difference is that I will be boiling it down to 6 gal instead of the 12.. :rockin:
Looks like I'll have lots o time to drink on this one.
For thos that don't want to boil for so long but don't want to do the DME thing, find another kettle and burner and get two of them going.
This kind of brew is what my 20 gal MLT is built for. Heck that grain bill is no different then my normal brew. The only difference is that I will be boiling it down to 6 gal instead of the 12.. :rockin:
Looks like I'll have lots o time to drink on this one.
For thos that don't want to boil for so long but don't want to do the DME thing, find another kettle and burner and get two of them going.
Couevas
Well-Known Member
Does anyone have a link or the necessary stats to plug Pale Chocolate malt into Beersmith? I am not finding it.
Thanks
Thanks
200L would be good.Couevas said:
http://morebeer.com/view_product/5612/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Pale_chocolate_malt
Couevas
Well-Known Member
This monster is really going to show off the PROS of using a keggle as your MLT. I will have no problem fitting all the goodness in.:rockin:
Brewpastor
Beer, not rocket chemistry
FSR402 said:
Oaked Barleywine is amazing. I would not bother with the barrel, but go with medium to medium dark roast oak cubes. That sounds like a nice addition to this. Barrels are a lot of work to maintain and clean. If you are doing beer with bugs I say get a barrel, otherwise, use the cubes. IMHO
landhoney
Well-Known Member
FSR402 said:
First of all, thats only a little over two gallons. Second, IMHO DO NOT BUY barrels with spigots on them, especially smaller ones, and REALLY ESPECIALLY that look shiny on the outside like that. That shinyness is varnish and can very negatively affect the flavor - when the beer soaks far enough into the wood it hits the varnish on the outside.
I won't re-hash an old thread where I got screwed with one of these - but if you are considering buying a barrel for beer or wine make sure it is not sealed on the inside with wax or anything else and that the outside is not coated with ANYTHING. Barrels like the one above, IMHO, are mainly for display and for serving hard liquor out of.
Negativity not directed at FSR402, I just hate to see a fellow homebrewer buy something expensive and get screwed in the end. Real barrels are great, make sure you're getting a real barrel.
Evan!
Well-Known Member
I can't be bothered to scan the 20-some pages of posts right now. Who do I need to PM to get in on this?
OP
OP
eh hem....that'd be me...Evan! said:
You back in the country?
Evan!
Well-Known Member
justbrewit
Zythos Conisseur
so i went back and finaly found the recipe. i saw the 1.5lbs of table sugar in there, i was thinking about using candy sugar(i have a case of dark wasser kandis from germany) almost every beer i've made lately has had the candi sugar in it and i'm tellin ya, this stuff ferments out nice. all the beers have be strong but with no off flavors like using sugar. i've been using 500gm? boxes. i'm not sure the size, i'll check and get back
Evan! said:
n00b, ain't you figgered out how to view 40-posts per page?
Brewpastor said:
That's all I needed to hear...
Oaked it is..Now, how much oak and for how long? I have only done one oaked beer it was a bourbon stout and it sat on the oak (2 oz of chips) for 2 months..
What is your thought on how much and how long?
Couevas
Well-Known Member
What are people's preliminary conditioning plans?
ie. How long in secondary? Force carb? Cold storage in bottles? Etc.
ie. How long in secondary? Force carb? Cold storage in bottles? Etc.
OP
OP
I'm planning on keeping in kegs (cellar temp) for about 3-4 months (maybe on some oaks chips) after a good 5-6 weeks in the fermenter.Couevas said:
Then it's into the chiller on the gas for two weeks and into bottles using the BMBF.
justbrewit
Zythos Conisseur
Brewpastor said:
so i'm looking at the hops profile here and i think we're going to need just a little bit more to fit this grain bill. i used about this same amount of hops in my IPA, it was hoppy but i don't think hoppy enough for a BW. maybe one more OZ of centennial @45mins? or 1/2OZ magnum? just tossing out ideas
also, are these pellet or whole hops? i prefer to use whole but can use pellet just as well
jds
Well-Known Member
Hops substitutions, anyone? I'm leaning towards Columbus for bittering, Sterling for flavor, and Willamette for finishing/aroma, Mostly because that's what I have on hand.
However, I also have some Sorachi Ace lying around. However, I'm afraid it'll be too much lemon in this barleywine. Opinions, please?
However, I also have some Sorachi Ace lying around. However, I'm afraid it'll be too much lemon in this barleywine. Opinions, please?
Sterling and Willamette will make a nice beer, but the hop character will be very, very different from one made with Centennial and Cascades. Hey, but you gotta do what you gotta do.
TL
TL
BierMuncher said:
I was thinking at first that I would be bottling this stuff. I don't drink BW's much so why have a keg taking up space in the kezzer when I could have something else in there.
But Now I think I will keg it. I like how much better and clear my beers have been since I started kegging.
So far I'm thinking that I will ferment for 6-8 weeks then rack to a clearing tank and oak it for 3 months then keg it and let it at 60-65* until about 3 weeks before the swap. Then I will chill it, carb it and bottle it.
I'll probably do 1 month in the primary bucket then leave it in the carboy for 2 (maybe with oak) before bottling. No kegs yet so we're going to have to hope the yeast still have something left.
Craig
Craig
Couevas
Well-Known Member
I may have my chest freezer/cold conditioner by then (fingers crossed that SWMBO doesn't veto). If that is the case....I think I will primary until done (2 weeks or so, I think) then secondary for a month (both at about 70). Then into a keg at around 60 until ship day (possibly with oak chips, haven't decided yet). Bottle on ship day with counter-pressure.
How does that sound?
How does that sound?
You will want to leave something this big on the yeast for at least a month. It's not about just fermenting down, it's about cleaning up too.Couevas said:
Sweet, stopped by the LHBS to get some supplies. They had plenty of centennial hops in stock. I already have the cascades and am going to use some of my stash of Bravo for the bittering addition.
For all in the Atlanta area, BrewDepot/BeerNecesities in Alpharetta has all these hops in stock and cheaper than you can get from the big online stores.
For all in the Atlanta area, BrewDepot/BeerNecesities in Alpharetta has all these hops in stock and cheaper than you can get from the big online stores.
Couevas
Well-Known Member
Is that the shop that Alton Brown went to when he did his episode of Good Eats on homebrewing? I think it is.
Couevas
Well-Known Member
Beerrific said:
For above reply. :rockin:
It's official.
my friend and i are doing a reiterative mash using two mash tuns. the first runnings will be the barleywine and the second runnings for a nice, hoppy small beer.
sweet
:rockin:
my friend and i are doing a reiterative mash using two mash tuns. the first runnings will be the barleywine and the second runnings for a nice, hoppy small beer.
sweet
:rockin:
OP
OP
Well now you've gone and put the thought in my head...DeathBrewer said:
DAMN YOU.....
Dr_Deathweed
Well-Known Member
BierMuncher said:Well now you've gone and put the thought in my head...
DAMN YOU.....
While this will be a lot of peoples first barleywine, I have the feeling this is going to turn into a lot of peoples first parti-gyle brew as well...
So, anyone want to throw out a mini 999 brew recipe?
conpewter
Well-Known Member
I hope to get in on this as well, I'll have to take the money out of the brew budget to pony up and pay for a membership though.
I am thinking of doing this as a modified parti-gyle as well. I think normally a parti-gyle ended up with 3 beers, and I just plan on two. I have two 10 gal mash tuns and a 15.5 boil kettle. Generally to do this brew I'd mash with 1.25 qt/gal as usual and get maybe 2 gallons from the runnings off the mash, then do two batch sparges of equal volume to get the rest of the pre-boil volume.
To get two beers out of this will it be a good idea to throw more base malt in the recipe and then mash a little thinner than usual to get enough from the first runnings and part of the second(?) to do the BW then use the rest of the 2nd runnings and the 3rd runnings for a smaller beer? (Still hope the smaller one is 1.040 - 1.050 or so gravity)
I am thinking of doing this as a modified parti-gyle as well. I think normally a parti-gyle ended up with 3 beers, and I just plan on two. I have two 10 gal mash tuns and a 15.5 boil kettle. Generally to do this brew I'd mash with 1.25 qt/gal as usual and get maybe 2 gallons from the runnings off the mash, then do two batch sparges of equal volume to get the rest of the pre-boil volume.
To get two beers out of this will it be a good idea to throw more base malt in the recipe and then mash a little thinner than usual to get enough from the first runnings and part of the second(?) to do the BW then use the rest of the 2nd runnings and the 3rd runnings for a smaller beer? (Still hope the smaller one is 1.040 - 1.050 or so gravity)
EvilTOJ
Well-Known Member
For this behemoth I plan on monkey-F'ing some sort of flysparge setup for my cooler-tun, then using two turkey fryers to boil the 13 gallons of runoff so I'm not waiting all day for the boil. I will also be doing a parti-gyle because I think it's a damned shame to waste all those good sugars.
Even though I have had a bad experience with oaking, I will consider oaking part of the batch on this. Just like for the 888, I'm going to make a five gallon starter for this one
Have we decided on a consensus of what yeast to use? WLP001 sounds like a good choice so far.
Even though I have had a bad experience with oaking, I will consider oaking part of the batch on this. Just like for the 888, I'm going to make a five gallon starter for this one
Have we decided on a consensus of what yeast to use? WLP001 sounds like a good choice so far.
I'm with you on that point for sure!EvilTOJ said:I'm going to make a five gallon starter for this one
OP
OP
If you have not PM'd me...please remember to do so.
Poppy360
Well-Known Member
Count me in on this!
OP
OP
Some folks have inquired about scaling this to a 3 gallon batch to fit their equipment.
I plugged everything into Beersmith. I had to sub out the pale chocolate with Crystal 120 because even trace amounts of the chocolate (350 SRM) was making the beer too dark.
I also had to make some adjustments to compensate for the differences between BeerTools Pro and BeerSmith when it came to IBUs.
Everything else should be pretty spot on to the Pastors original recipe.
This version has also been added to the sticky thread.
Batch Size: 3.50 gal
Boil Size: 5.37 gal
Estimated OG: 1.119 SG
Estimated Color: 19.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 99. IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 61.0 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amount
14.00 lb Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)
1.25 lb Munich Malt (9.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM)
0.25 lb Special B Malt (180.0 SRM)
0.10 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Sugar, Table (Sucrose) (1.0 SRM)
1.25 oz Magnum [14.50%] (90 min)
0.50 oz Centennial [9.50%] (25 min)
0.50 oz Centennial [9.50%] (10 min)
0.50 oz Cascade [7.80%] (10 min)
I plugged everything into Beersmith. I had to sub out the pale chocolate with Crystal 120 because even trace amounts of the chocolate (350 SRM) was making the beer too dark.
I also had to make some adjustments to compensate for the differences between BeerTools Pro and BeerSmith when it came to IBUs.
Everything else should be pretty spot on to the Pastors original recipe.
This version has also been added to the sticky thread.
Batch Size: 3.50 gal
Boil Size: 5.37 gal
Estimated OG: 1.119 SG
Estimated Color: 19.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 99. IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 61.0 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amount
14.00 lb Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM)
1.25 lb Munich Malt (9.0 SRM)
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L (80.0 SRM)
0.25 lb Special B Malt (180.0 SRM)
0.10 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -120L (120.0 SRM)
1.00 lb Sugar, Table (Sucrose) (1.0 SRM)
1.25 oz Magnum [14.50%] (90 min)
0.50 oz Centennial [9.50%] (25 min)
0.50 oz Centennial [9.50%] (10 min)
0.50 oz Cascade [7.80%] (10 min)
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