Brutus Ten ????

Has anyone done anything different with their thermowells for the Love probes? I was considering the heat guarded thermowells sold by Morebeer on the backs of the kettles for cleaner wiring. Is there a major benefit to Lonnie's thermowell in the tee off the MLT outlet?

Thanks
KD

im going to try and duplicate Lonnnie's. It's very simple and sometimes that works the best. I just need to find a probe that will fit, Morebeer's doesnt look like it will

Chimone said:

im going to try and duplicate Lonnnie's. It's very simple and sometimes that works the best. I just need to find a probe that will fit, Morebeer's doesnt look like it will

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I think the only thing different is the heat guard extending outward which protects the probe wires from flames. If you look at the picture of the tee, you can see what looks like a hex plug in one end of the tee. This is actually the FE616 thermowell without the guard on it. The well itself is only a couple of inches long I believe, so it would all fit in that SS tee, perhaps extending into the QD a bit.

korndog said:

I think the only thing different is the heat guard extending outward which protects the probe wires from flames. If you look at the picture of the tee, you can see what looks like a hex plug in one end of the tee. This is actually the FE616 thermowell without the guard on it. The well itself is only a couple of inches long I believe, so it would all fit in that SS tee, perhaps extending into the QD a bit.

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Oh ok, well that may be better overall then. A little more protection in ase it gets too close to open flames.

I thought about putting another coupler into one of the kegs, but I think putting it on the QD will not only give you an accurate reading, it will be more convenient for disconnecting for cleaning purposes.

Hi guys
Has anyone here done the return system as specified? I am wondering how well this works for whirlpooling. Also, I need to know how far down into the pot the tube should protrude. Does it extend down into the mash?

Thanks
KD

I did something similar with my kegs, but through the side of the keg at the top, not the lid (I don't have 3 lids). I should take some pics of the inside during recirculation, but it seems to work very well. I made mine where I can swivel the curved copper tubing up or down depending on the volume I'm working with. I think with a lid-based return, you'd want the tubing going out to the side of the pot near the top since it wouldn't be adjustable.

wshymas said:

finally finished with my stand here are some pics.

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Say, how are these burners working out for you? Is there a reason you plumbed the inlets from the front rather than rear of the stand?

I would think he did it so he could adjust the carbs without having to go behind the rig.

Virtuous said:

I would think he did it so he could adjust the carbs without having to go behind the rig.

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Carburetors? I'm obviously missing something here. Are these low pressure burners? Do you mean valves for restricting flow, or actual carburetors for mixing?

Thanks
KD

Its a simple carb. Where the gas line goes into the burner and it flares out a little bit there is a plate with a hole cut in it. Kinda like on the old parmesian cheese shakers. You set the air/fuel ration by changing the opening of that plate.

Virtuous said:

Its a simple carb. Where the gas line goes into the burner and it flares out a little bit there is a plate with a hole cut in it. Kinda like on the old parmesian cheese shakers. You set the air/fuel ration by changing the opening of that plate.

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Very good description. Ah yes, the old green Kraft tubes. That was before we got culture and Reggiano. Thanks.

Say, how are these burners working out for you? Is there a reason you plumbed the inlets from the front rather than rear of the stand?

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I did turn the burners this way so I could control the flow. here is a link to northern brewer with some info on the burners. http://www.northernbrewer.com/burners.html
I am using a different gas regulator then what is sold with the burners (the recommended regulator did not work very well with two burners running so I picked up a 0-60 psi regulator.) I will be moving the burners down away from the kegs to try and get a better burn. Check out this thread (Adjusting a burner height) I hope this helps

wshymas said:

(the recommended regulator did not work very well with two burners running so I picked up a 0-60 psi regulator.)

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I am also concerned about this. Im not sure if my 30psi regulator is going to be enough for 3 burners. Granted I will only have two running at once, but I'm not sure If I should upgrade to a 60psi like you did.

Chimone said:

I am also concerned about this. Im not sure if my 30psi regulator is going to be enough for 3 burners. Granted I will only have two running at once, but I'm not sure If I should upgrade to a 60psi like you did.

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I went with the Brutus 10 setup with low pressure burners. Got them from topfoodservice.com, as they were in stock. They also have pilot burners for them.

korndog said:

I went with the Brutus 10 setup with low pressure burners. Got them from topfoodservice.com, as they were in stock. They also have pilot burners for them.

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Yep, just had 3 delivered from them myself. They look impressive and I cant wait to fire them up for the first time.

Chimone said:

I am also concerned about this. Im not sure if my 30psi regulator is going to be enough for 3 burners. Granted I will only have two running at once, but I'm not sure If I should upgrade to a 60psi like you did.

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A 30 psi reg runs 3 burners just fine.

Lil' Sparky said:

A 30 psi reg runs 3 burners just fine.

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sweet, good to hear.

I just got the call and I pick up my stand this week too. Time to decide on a color

I do not even come close to running at 60 psi. If I would have found a 30 psi regulator I would have purchased it.

score!

just got both my Asco Red Hat Valves #8210G094 for 35 each off ebay. THey are 120 bucks each at all the other websites I found

Chimone said:

score!

just got both my Asco Red Hat Valves #8210G094 for 35 each off ebay. THey are 120 bucks each at all the other websites I found

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Awesome score! I am now looking for my valves. Just picked up frame from welder and installed casters. Need to scotchbrite it with a sander, bend the shroud, then start working on box for panel, plumbing and electrical. Here it is:

Very nice!

Lil' Sparky said:

Very nice!

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Thanks. I've done some easy stuff, now onto the the gas assembly. I've been thinking long and hard about this one. I am also considering using a 28 gallon mash tun with a hinged dump system. i also realize that I want some kind of kettle keepers to keep the vessels from falling off while wheeling. I guess I am at least two weeks away form brewing. Any heads up on tippy dump designs appreciated.

Thanks
KD

I stopped by the welders yesterday evening to take a peak at my frame. It's almost done, he said a few more days and I can take it home

Chimone said:

I stopped by the welders yesterday evening to take a peak at my frame. It's almost done, he said a few more days and I can take it home

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Looking good. Are you welding the casters on?

korndog said:

Looking good. Are you welding the casters on?

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nope, doing one of these numbers. This way if I do need to brew on an uneven surface I can adjust the height of the castors

Chimone said:

nope, doing one of these numbers. This way if I do need to brew on an uneven surface I can adjust the height of the castors

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Hate to show you this; hopefully you already knew. $9.00 each from McMaster.

Ok thats where you get those from. I mentioned something like those to the welder but he said he could do it this way too. Oh well, these only cost me whatever 4 of those nuts were. So like .25 cents or however much.

Chimone said:

Ok thats where you get those from. I mentioned something like those to the welder but he said he could do it this way too. Oh well, these only cost me whatever 4 of those nuts were. So like .25 cents or however much.

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Ok cool. Money saved!

Geez fellas... This really brings a tear to my eye! I have a lot of pics of some beautiful completed Brutus'es. It looks like you two stole my brewery! Korndog, I could have sworn you took a pic of mine in mid build! Man this is dead on so far!

VERY NICE guys! I am putting together a '"dedication" webpage to add to my alenuts site. If you don't mind, I would like to add your pics! I hope to have it up soon. Soon as I can figure out this dang iMac!

Lonnie Mac...

colplink said:

Geez fellas... This really brings a tear to my eye! I have a lot of pics of some beautiful completed Brutus'es. It looks like you two stole my brewery! Korndog, I could have sworn you took a pic of mine in mid build! Man this is dead on so far!

VERY NICE guys! I am putting together a '"dedication" webpage to add to my alenuts site. If you don't mind, I would like to add your pics! I hope to have it up soon. Soon as I can figure out this dang iMac!

Lonnie Mac...

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Hey! Nice to hear from THE MAN himself. Thanks Lonnie! It's been a blast working on it.

colplink said:

Geez fellas... This really brings a tear to my eye! I have a lot of pics of some beautiful completed Brutus'es. It looks like you two stole my brewery! Korndog, I could have sworn you took a pic of mine in mid build! Man this is dead on so far!

VERY NICE guys! I am putting together a '"dedication" webpage to add to my alenuts site. If you don't mind, I would like to add your pics! I hope to have it up soon. Soon as I can figure out this dang iMac!

Lonnie Mac...

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Hey Lonnie!

Ill have many more photos Im sure next week sometime. Thanks again dude!

I think I'm going to start on my Brutus soon too. I don't think I'd do the control panel right off the bat, but I'll probably do it eventually.

He
Does anybody know where to buy SS QD's? B3 has them, but they only sell as pair, and I really don't need that many couplings. They are pricey too.

Thanks
KD

Hello - do you know why there are ball valves attached to the pumps? I dont see the need for them.

Thanks.

pieper said:

Hello - do you know why there are ball valves attached to the pumps? I dont see the need for them.

Thanks.

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You can use them to adjust the flow output of the pumps. Since the pump is magnetically coupled to the drive it will allow the pump to slip without placing a large load on the motor.

pieper said:

Hello - do you know why there are ball valves attached to the pumps? I dont see the need for them.

Thanks.

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It's to control flow. These pumps require that the flow be restricted on the out-flow side of the pump. They are magnetic and can handle the backflow no problem.

why cant I regulate the flow by the valves on the kettles?

Thanks again.

pieper said:

why cant I regulate the flow by the valves on the kettles?

Thanks again.

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Lonny uses a recirculating system that pumps fluid into the kettles through the lids, which do not have valves to restrict flow. You cannot restrict flow going into the pumps, only out.

pieper said:

why cant I regulate the flow by the valves on the kettles?

Thanks again.

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The output from the kettles are usually going into the input of the pump. You do not regulate the input of these pumps. Doing so will usually result in cavitation of the pump head and you would have issues with air, priming and no flow. These magnetic head pumps are designed to regulate at the output as the shaft is not directly coupled to the impeller...

Ideally, you want a full .5" of unrestricted flow to the input as these pumps are .5" heads... What happens after that, the pump does not care...

kegs are at welders getting couplers welded into place. So now I really need to start on my thermowell QDs. I ordered one of B3's new thermowell with the heat guard and my LOVE temp probe wont fit. I need to figure something else out