Stainless Camlocks review

I used zip ties on my barbs. Seemed to do the trick. No leaks and it keeps bulky clamps out of the way when using the camlocks.

McMaster-Carr sells a similar hose. Orange outside cover. They do offer it in 1/2" ID for $6.00 a foot.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#brewers'-hose/=6girlp

I have used the same hose in 1.5" ID in quite a few brewpub systems.

It is rather stiff and gets even stiffer when cold. Serious PITA to use in a cold room.

Bobby_M said:

I plan to use an oversized barb and stretch the silicone over it. I doubt I'll even need a clamp.

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I slipped 1/2" silicone tubing on these 1/2" pro-flo camlock females and they stay put, and don't leak air or liquid bubbles unless I fiddle them. No clamps of any kind. One reason I love silicone over the less stretchy thermoplastic.
However I'll probably end up clamping on some oetikers (sp?) or something soon.

Bobby_M said:

I suspect the concerns for wearing out the arms is based on how snug the fit starts out. I believe the seals are BunaN and they're pretty firm. I swapped one of them out for a silicone oring and the arms engage with much less force.

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Bobby, what size o-ring did you use to replace the BunaN? Got a McMaster part number, per chance?

They are the same ones I got as a weldless seal on a 1/2" bulkhead and I THINK they were #211. I tested it out today and it seals no problem.

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.AS...hDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=9396K32

Cheaper for half the amount of rings: http://www.oringsandmore.com/servlet/the-1356/Silicone-o-dsh-rings-Size-211/Detail

He also sells on ebay.

Bobby_M said:

They are the same ones I got as a weldless seal on a 1/2" bulkhead and I THINK they were #211. I tested it out today and it seals no problem.

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.AS...hDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=9396K32

Cheaper for half the amount of rings: http://www.oringsandmore.com/servlet/the-1356/Silicone-o-dsh-rings-Size-211/Detail

He also sells on ebay.

Click to expand...

Thanks sir. Wanna make sure I get the right one.

Cause, well...

Y'know... last thing I wanna do is to blow out an o-ring.

For the 1/2" inchers I'm going to do npt, but I'm thinking of just going with the next size up (3/4") with barb instead of 1/2" npt and npt to barb for after the boil kettle and I want as few things to take apart to sanitize. Also prevents using a reducer from my 3/4" ball valve BK outlet.

Will 1/2" line stretch over a 3/4" barb? With some heat? After it's heated and fitted, is it a bi@tch to take apart and sanitize?

If you've got 3/4" NPT valves then you can definitely go with the 3/4" camlocks. However, even the 1/2" kit is a little bulky. Yes, 1/2" silicone should make it over the 3/4" barb just fine if it's anything like the 1/2" barb.

For those of you who said you didn't notice any restriction with the small barb probably didn't try pumping without said restriction. I just tried the March pump with the the tubing stretched over the 1/2" NPT and holy cow, fire hose in comparison. If I can get around to it, I'll measure the GPM difference between the two.

Just spoke with the guy at Pro Flow. He had some specs and measured by hand the rest.

Here are the dimensions for both the 1/2" and 3/4".

1/2"
Barb ID- .32"
Barb OD- .49"
Barb OD bumps- .58"
Internal ID- .45"
Cam OD- .54"

3/4"
Barb ID- .55"
Barb OD- .75"
Barb OD bumps- .85"
Internal ID- .72"
Cam OD- .85"

I'm actually going to go with tri-clamps in stead of 3/4" cam locks but I thought you might be interested in the info. I'll still go with the 1/2" NPT cams though. Party on, Wayne.

There may be a restriction on the 1/2 barb, but I've been doing wet tests all weekend and I'm impressed with the flow.... it will do 15 gallons in just a few minutes... more than fast enough for me.

Agreed. If max flow for whirlpooling is desired though, every bit counts.

I can see that, I'm not whirlpooling, perhaps thats why I haven't seen a deficiency.

Bobby_M said:

They are the same ones I got as a weldless seal on a 1/2" bulkhead and I THINK they were #211. I tested it out today and it seals no problem.

http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.AS...hDtlLink&fasttrack=False&searchstring=9396K32

Cheaper for half the amount of rings: http://www.oringsandmore.com/servlet/the-1356/Silicone-o-dsh-rings-Size-211/Detail

He also sells on ebay.

Click to expand...

That's the same part number as you can get at your local auto parts stores that have "O" rings, a good one vs those "Big Box" like Kragen's in my area.
Even a hardeware store should have "O" rings. I have a family run parts store in town that has way more items than Kragen's. A performance speed shop would be another place to check vs mail ordering as shipping costs for a $.19 item is crazy plus you can have it now.

Reelale said:

I just saw your other post with the measurements. I still can't see where 3/100ths would make that much difference. My system ain't that balanced!
I am happy with the 45-degree brass ones I have, but those look so sweet, and they are stainless. I'm sooo undecided...

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That .030" ID difference is 17.6% more cross sectional area, that adds up with each fitting in a single hose run especially dealing with the low pressures of the March pumps.

BrewBeemer said:

That's the same part number as you can get at your local auto parts stores that have "O" rings, a good one vs those "Big Box" like Kragen's in my area.
Even a hardeware store should have "O" rings. I have a family run parts store in town that has way more items than Kragen's. A performance speed shop would be another place to check vs mail ordering as shipping costs for a $.19 item is crazy plus you can have it now.

Click to expand...

Except I really like silicone in this application.

What's not to like, Buna-N Bier? I here ya besides silicone would be softer to compress plus easier on the cam locks over time.

On food grade hoses with 4" cam locks hauling vinagar for food processing plants I used a wax stick for cutting aluminum with a dry carbide blade. This wax applied at the cam surface area has made them lock much easier plus last 3 times longer. When your out over $230 a fitting times 4 hoses (8 end fittings) this adds up. I've used Chap-Stick in a pinch on these cam locks.

SankePankey said:

Just spoke with the guy at Pro Flow.

Click to expand...

Did he say anything about when they'd have the 1/2" bits back in stock?

Party on, Wayne.

Click to expand...

Party on, Garth.

Just as a note, this is the rate of flow coming out of a March pump with their standard 1/2" barb:



This was also compared to the flow through McMaster's venerable brass QDs on another rig (didn't get a photo of it - should have) and while it seemed like the camlock equipped hoses transferred 5 gallons in slightly less time, the slightly restricted barb was acting like a nozzle, and pushing out the water with a noticeable increase in force - which would only help in whirlpooling, right?

The way to measure the rate of flow is to time how long it takes to fill up a vessel with some known level marked. I mean, you could get that stream to go 12 feet if you restrict the end enough. The other thing is, you wouldn't want the restriction to occur until the very end of the whirlpool tubing inside the kettle, not at the disconnect.

I know I'm being nitpicky with these barbs. I admit it. I'm still going to sell the two barbed connectors I bought.

What side did you buy as barbed? The male or female? I'd be interested in them possibly.

I have two of the female side with barbs.

I did a test earlier today. Both tests used the March 809-HS mounted about 16" below my vessels. The input and output hose is plumbed into the march with high flow barbs (5/8" OD so no restriction at this point). The destination vessel was an ale pale sitting on top of my rig. The two tests I ran were:

1. Stock camlock barbed fittings on the ends of the tubing. This ran at 2.5 gallons per minute.

2. Male NPT version of the camlock into a 1/2" elbow, then another nipple as a makeshift barb. This ran 3.5 GPM.

If if you use disconnects at the pump side of both tubes, I don't know if the barbed couplings there would add more restriction or not. I'm sure for most folks the restricted flow is OK but I look at it as a compromise.

What would you want for the "used" fittings? HEHEHEHE:fro:

Seeing as they are a rare collector's item that you can't buy right now.... I don't know, $10 for the pair including original seals and two silicone orings.

I wonder if they are light enough to qualify for first class mail. That'd be cheaper than the $5 priority flat rate.

Thats not much of a deal for a very restrictive set of barbs

I must have gotten lucky. I ordered 4 more female barbs and got them in about 4 days.
This was about 3 weeks ago. I think they replenish their inventory pretty often.

If you are looking for fittings and the website says sold out. Just call them. They will tell you when they will be in and will let you place the order right then.

I just talked to the guy and mentioned that I have video review of them going up on youtube and it's a shame that most of the parts are out of stock given the free advertising thing. He said he's really trying to get them ASAP and was wondering how many I think he should be stocking. I didn't really know what to say other than "a lot". I have to believe the price is going to go up soon given their popularity now.

Ordered mine last week knowing they where out of stock,, figured to price would go up. supply and demand..
received a mail and was told they would be back in stock around mid end of April I ordered 12 fittings

Bobby_M said:

He said he's really trying to get them ASAP and was wondering how many I think he should be stocking. I didn't really know what to say other than "a lot".

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That is a tough question to answer. When i ordered I bought almost 24 pieces. Then this next order was for 4 more. It is tough to know how many people usually need. Then how many people are going to ordered. HBT has definitely put the word out about these fittings.

We really should coin the "HBT Effect".... LG pump prices, camlock fittings, etc, etc

are these camlock fittings better than the tri-clovers (like from swagman's), or even, what's the difference?

are camlocks faster/easier?

Camlocks are far less expensive

Tri-clover is a true sanitary fitting. Great to use on the cold side of brewing.

On the hot side, this isn't as important.

For me, camlocks are easier to use. I always end up dropping the gasket whenever I used tri-clovers. So I have to sanitize it all over again.

There are lots of people who love tri-clovers. They are NOT a single hand operation. In my mind, they require three hands .

Mind you, most of my experience with them was with the 1 1/2" variety.

Either way you go, stainless steel fittings will stand up to cleaning chemicals far better than brass.

Thanks for the reply Wayne..

I am trying to make up my mind one what to do to transfer all my liquids from one vessel to the other (and back).. And it seems i have a few decisions to make.. march vs LG, tri-clover vs camlock, how to whirlpool etc.
And i'm still learnign my new e-keggle at the same time.

I guess so far the only sure thing is the silicone tubing.

One more question though for you guys.. if all these fittings are two-handed, isn't there hot water/wort spilling everywhere? The tubes are all filled with liquid when you transfer the hose from one vessel to the other, right?

thanks,
fred

dutch-brew said:

One more question though for you guys.. if all these fittings are two-handed, isn't there hot water/wort spilling everywhere? The tubes are all filled with liquid when you transfer the hose from one vessel to the other, right?

thanks,
fred

Click to expand...

They just require you to develop technique in handling them. I make sure all valves on the hose I am changing are closed, then, with a hand towel held to the underside of the fitting, I remove the hose in such a way as the liquid is contained in the hose, then quickly empty the hose into the vessel and have a homebrew. It'll make more sense when you have them in front of you. Only a small bit will be spilled.

I have no idea why it's showing two windows....

Fantastic video Bobby. You hit all the points. Thanks for doing the comparisons.

I am building a new system this summer. I believe I am going to go with the 3/4 fittings for this one. I assume the barbed fittings have the same restrictions. I am going to use the male npt version instead and thread hose onto it.

Again thank you for taking the time to think this out.

Great video as always Bobby. Those fittings look great!

Bobby
Thanks for posting the video, this clears up many questions I had about them. I think I would just grind the Male NPT fittings like you illustrated, great cost saving idea and it provides very little "step" in the ID. This will be a step up from pulling silicone on and off of barbs all day for me.

I think my favorite setup so far, which I just messed with after making the video, is the 1/2" male NPT female QD with a street elbow threaded on. You can grind those threads down into a smooth hose barb which is the most compact way to emulate the old mcmaster elbow connector. The bonus is, you don't "ruin" the camlock threads in case you have second thoughts.

What's the condition on the ID of the male end of the street elbow, rough cast or machined? My thinking if it's smooth is insert an expandable arbor then machine down the threads plus make shallow barbs on the lathe. This can also be done if they are rough cast just clean up by drilling out first then add the arbor.

Great idea, I just need to get a lathe now.