Stainless Camlocks review

Yakima 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Aluminum would be fine, esp if you boil them first to create an oxide layer. They are softer than stainless though and may wear out faster.
 
About the wear issue: Use vaseline or any petroleum jelly.

It's food grade ultra high molecular weight mineral oil.
That's all it is.
 
I suspect the concerns for wearing out the arms is based on how snug the fit starts out. I believe the seals are BunaN and they're pretty firm. I swapped one of them out for a silicone oring and the arms engage with much less force.

Of course the big question is if it still seals well and I'll answer that when I get them all installed on my rig. The stock configuration is probably rated at a much higher pressure than we need so getting them to seat with less force which still holding a seal is my priority.

Given my use of silicone tubing, I'm going to be using plain old 1/2" threaded nipples as hose barbs and I might grind the threads off the hose end to slightly reduce the OD a bit. I bought one of the camlock females with the barb and it's obscenely restrictive. I wouldn't recommend them at all.
 
I think you might be right about pressure. I think if your seal is the least bit snug it should not leak.

I have not been having problems with tension. I have found they sort of break in. After a few times using them they seem to be a bit easier to latch. The technique of pulling both levers evenly seems to do the trick for me.
 
Bobby_M said:
I suspect the concerns for wearing out the arms is based on how snug the fit starts out. I believe the seals are BunaN and they're pretty firm. I swapped one of them out for a silicone oring and the arms engage with much less force.

Of course the big question is if it still seals well and I'll answer that when I get them all installed on my rig. The stock configuration is probably rated at a much higher pressure than we need so getting them to seat with less force which still holding a seal is my priority.

Given my use of silicone tubing, I'm going to be using plain old 1/2" threaded nipples as hose barbs and I might grind the threads off the hose end to slightly reduce the OD a bit. I bought one of the camlock females with the barb and it's obscenely restrictive. I wouldn't recommend them at all.
Click to expand...

I didn't notice a massive restriction on the female barb set..... hrm
 
MrShake said:
I didn't notice a massive restriction on the female barb set..... hrm
Click to expand...

The ID of the barb is way smaller than it needs to be because if I recall, the largest OD of the barb (the actual barbed part) is 1/2" and the valleys are deeper than they need to be. If your tubing has stretch, as it should since one should use silicone, a 5/8" barb with 1/2" NPT thread would be best.
 
Bobby_M said:
The ID of the barb is way smaller than it needs to be because if I recall, the largest OD of the barb (the actual barbed part) is 1/2" and the valleys are deeper than they need to be. If your tubing has stretch, as it should since one should use silicone, a 5/8" barb with 1/2" NPT thread would be best.
Click to expand...

I'll have to look again, but I don't remember the restriction being major, nor did it concern me... but now you've got me thinkin!
 
I think you're right, a 1/2 male pipe thread to 5/8" hose barb threaded into the QD.
 
No, I haven't found a cheap source yet which is why I'm considering just using a regular 1/2" NPT nippe (2" long or so) and grinding the threads off the side the hose will go on. The OD at that point would be close to 3/4" which silicone tubing should easily stretch over.

If you're not opposed to using some brass, Lowes carries 1/2" NPT to 5/8" hose barb fittings in brass for a couple bucks each.
 
Eh, yep. Kinda pricey. Looking at the pictures on this thread, I don't see a huge constriction in the barb on the cheap ones. I'm using the brass 45 degree disconnects now and it looks like the ID on the camlocks is the same, maybe larger. I have no flow problems with the March 809 now.
 
You don't have to see a difference in the picture. The real stats as measured on my kitchen counter with a dial caliper.

ID of the camlock built in barb: .32"
ID of the male part of the mcmaster brass QD: .355"
ID of an aftermarket 1/2" hose barb I have: .385"
ID of a 5/8" barb: .47"
ID of a standard 1/2" pipe nipple: .56"

I also measured the OD of the camlock barb at .465" so if you wanted to maintain 1/16" wall thickness, you can't drill it out at all.

I was able to stretch 1/2" ID silicone tubing over 1/2" NPT with a little cursing. It might just work to clamp it onto the threads of the type B fitting.

This isn't to say you won't get enough flow or a flow you're happy with. I just don't want anyone to specifically "upgrade" from the mcmaster brass ones to the camlocks strictly to reduce restriction. You can't get there. I'm especially concerned about people seeing wayne's picture here and thinking, wow, so much better flow!

disconnects.JPG
 
I put them on my RIMS system and I like them quite a bit. Still a bit tricky barehanded when they're 170-212 degrees, but I suspect that holds true for most metals.

~M~
 
Bobby_M said:
You don't have to see a difference in the picture. The real stats as measured on my kitchen counter with a dial caliper.

ID of the camlock built in barb: .32"
ID of the male part of the mcmaster brass QD: .355"
ID of an aftermarket 1/2" hose barb I have: .385"
ID of a 5/8" barb: .47"
ID of a standard 1/2" pipe nipple: .56"

I also measured the OD of the camlock barb at .465" so if you wanted to maintain 1/16" wall thickness, you can't drill it out at all.

I was able to stretch 1/2" ID silicone tubing over 1/2" NPT with a little cursing. It might just work to clamp it onto the threads of the type B fitting.

This isn't to say you won't get enough flow or a flow you're happy with. I just don't want anyone to specifically "upgrade" from the mcmaster brass ones to the camlocks strictly to reduce restriction. You can't get there. I'm especially concerned about people seeing wayne's picture here and thinking, wow, so much better flow!
Click to expand...

I just saw your other post with the measurements. I still can't see where 3/100ths would make that much difference. My system ain't that balanced!
I am happy with the 45-degree brass ones I have, but those look so sweet, and they are stainless. I'm sooo undecided...
 
Yeah, you're right that .03 isn't that much smaller but it's not upgrade as far as flow goes to go down in size no matter what the difference. I can't get a whirlpool in my kettle with a march pump and the brass disconnects.

I'm more thinking of the difference between the camlock stock barb .33 and a 5/8" barb at .47". That's a difference of .14 which is more than 1/8".
 
So bobby if you had to do it again, would you stick with the mcmaster brass ones you have now or go with the camlocks?
 
Bobby_M said:
Yeah, you're right that .03 isn't that much smaller but it's not upgrade as far as flow goes to go down in size no matter what the difference. I can't get a whirlpool in my kettle with a march pump and the brass disconnects.

I'm more thinking of the difference between the camlock stock barb .33 and a 5/8" barb at .47". That's a difference of .14 which is more than 1/8".
Click to expand...

Wouldn't the whirpooling be more a function of pressure vs. volume? I'm kinda thinking it's the velocity of the liquid more than the volume that creates the greatest turbulence. I'm getting a pretty good whirlpool now with the brass disconnects, at least enough that I'm getting a pretty good cone in the center of my keggle. Just need to let it whirlpool long enough to capture the cold break too, I'm working on that. I'm running 1/2" copper line for my whirlpool return ala Jamils set-up. Still deciding...
 
ghart999 said:
So bobby if you had to do it again, would you stick with the mcmaster brass ones you have now or go with the camlocks?
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that I haven't installed the camlock parts onto my rig yet. I'm basing this on evaluating the the hose barb diameter. I would still buy the camlocks but I would highly consider figuring out a more robust hose connection over the stock barbed female fitting.
 
ghart99,

If you back through this thread a bit, you will find that I have replaced the McMaster-Carr fittings with camlocks, at a bit of a financial loss to me.

I would NOT go back to the MC fittings. With the same pumps and hoses, I do find increased flow and greater ease of use. It does take a short time to get used to the difference, but I have now brewed twice with the new fittings and I love them.

If you want to maximize the flow through the fittings, then go for the slightly larger hosebarb to NPT adapter and a threaded female fitting. I find no need to. I MAY get a couple of the threaded females and an elbow with a hose barb just to make a couple of connections easier.

The stainless will stand up to cleaning chemicals a lot better than the brass fittings. There is also no need to "pickle" the camlocks to remove lead as you should do with the brass fittings.

Bottom line, enjoy what you currently have. If you are looking for your first set of disconnects, stainless is usually a better, longer lasting material to use. The camlocks take getting used to, but won't make you have to wear a glove to change hoses.

If anyone in the Denver area wishes to take a look at the fittings or participate in a brew day using them, drop me a PM when the snow melts ;)
 
Wayne, thanks for the thoughts. These are my first disconnects as I have been just sliding tubing onto barbs. I am moving to a single tier system with direct fire mash and a single pump. Since I have not gone with any disconnects yet, I will go straight for the camlocks.

Also I did not know we're both from Denver. I'd love to take you up on your offer to come by when you brew the next time. I live in Aurora. Are you in a homebrew club out here?
 
I have brewed twice with my Camlocks and love them. They aren't as quick as a "quick disconnect" but quick enough for me and a LOT more affordable.
 
Wayne1 said:
ghart99, The camlocks take getting used to, but won't make you have to wear a glove to change hoses.

If anyone in the Denver area wishes to take a look at the fittings or participate in a brew day using them, drop me a PM when the snow melts ;)
Click to expand...

I agree they take a bit to get used to, but after you get it figured out it seems to be pretty fast. I can sorta do it with one hand. I push the hose in with my other at first then when the arms grab I can finish with one hand. I love them. I just ordered a few more a few weeks ago to make a few more utility hoses.


Wayne1: I am going to take you up on your offer. I will be in denver a bunch this summer.
 
Well I went to order camlocks from proflow and they are out of stock on basically every piece I would use. Type C, Type F and now Type A too. All the 1/2" size. I was told that they would likely be out of stock for 6 weeks or more. Again, the HBT forum cleaned them out. I can't wait that long for them so I ordered the standard brass disconnects that many of us use from McMaster. Oh well. No bling for me.
 
Sorry to hear that your rig will be blingless :(

If you are still interested in the SS fittings, you should be able to sell your brass for half of what you paid for them. That should help to offset the $$$.

You are welcome to come over and fondle my fittings whenever you wish ;)
 
I like these but I have no point of reference other than these. I don't find a 2 handed operation all that difficult or distracting to be honest, but maybe i'm not switching them out as much as some. I don't find the flow to be restricted with the barbs either, but then again I've only used these. Ive considered buying aluminum just to see how sturdy they are compared to the stainless. They're much cheaper.
 
Wayne1 said:
Sorry to hear that your rig will be blingless :(

If you are still interested in the SS fittings, you should be able to sell your brass for half of what you paid for them. That should help to offset the $$$.

You are welcome to come over and fondle my fittings whenever you wish ;)
Click to expand...

I do wish to fondle your fittings. Keep me updated when you brew.....
 
Yeah, but... just look at it! :D

They're really spendy... the first one that came up in google was a 20' x 3" hose that was a cool $1000. Yipes.

If there were a 1/2" version available, I'd assume that it would be cheaper. On top of that, I don't need any 10ft long. I just like the fact that there are no hose clamps to deal with, it's all one unit. Perhaps there's some kind of way to get those type of crimp-on hose connectors.
 
MacBruver said:
Yeah, but... just look at it! :D

They're really spendy... the first one that came up in google was a 20' x 3" hose that was a cool $1000. Yipes.

If there were a 1/2" version available, I'd assume that it would be cheaper. On top of that, I don't need any 10ft long. I just like the fact that there are no hose clamps to deal with, it's all one unit. Perhaps there's some kind of way to get those type of crimp-on hose connectors.
Click to expand...

What'sn wrong with hose clamps? I use oetiker clamps for everything. There permanent and don't screw up the hose at all.
 

Similar threads

B
For Sale 1/2BBL (15gal) all grain setup for sale. Self collection in Boise, Idaho
Replies
0
Views
402
bradybjr
B
J
For Sale 15g All Grain Brewing system-$400
Replies
0
Views
533
joshthiel
J
R
For Sale Anvil Foundry with recirculation
Replies
0
Views
624
Raider7296
R
sibelman
Small plumbing challenge: peristaltic pump for controlled fly-sparging
Replies
30
Views
948
sibelman
sibelman
T
For Sale SS Brewtech system- Utah
Replies
0
Views
131
The Hoff
T
CornyKegs 300

Latest posts

Back
Top