Stainless Camlocks review

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For me, camlocks are easier to use. I always end up dropping the gasket whenever I used tri-clovers. So I have to sanitize it all over again.
Click to expand...
You can solve the problem by using the correct gasket.

Stay in place seals.
100_5447.jpg


Bobby_M as always a great video and good info.


Cheers,
ClaudiusB
 
Great video and information on these things.

I read in here that Aluminum would be fine but would wear out faster b/c they are softer.

Are there any other concerns with Aluminum? Cleaning chemicals or anything that would adversly effect aluminum vice SS? Thanks.
 
Aluminum has a more limited number of chemicals that can be used, such as no oxyclean. Also, they're softer. One positive is that they would cool down faster.
 
Accidentally dropping the ends on cemernt will distort the female end or chew up th sealing contact surface of the male end causing leaks each way your screwed.
Adding to this the heat loss of aluminum vs stainless is another factor with leaving cost out of the picture. Stainless is the only way to go. JMO.
 
Thanks for the heads up, Bobby. Ordering some now. I'm going to stock up... I think eventually they're going to figure out they can raise prices on these little ones, if homebrewers keep buying them all up.
 
Bobby_M said:
I got an email from proflow that they have about a 100 pieces of each part right now for those who have been waiting.
Click to expand...

Anyway you can tell us which "type" the two fittings are. Their site isn't overly descriptive. Thanks.
 
Type A is female thread to male camlock
Type B is male thread to female camlock
Type C is hose barb to female camlock
Type D is female thread to female camlock
Type E is hose barb to male camlock
Type F is male thread to male camlock

If you're doing female fittings on the hoses and male fittings on ball valves, you'll probably need two Type C's per hose, and one type F per ball valve. I picked up a couple extra Type A's, just in case a pump or something I get down the line has female threads.
 
Used mine for about 3 brews now and i like them a lot, ive gotten to the point i can usually close these with one hand.
 
Bobby_M said:
I got an email from proflow that they have about a 100 pieces of each part right now for those who have been waiting.
Click to expand...

ssshhh... I wasn't going to tell anyone until mine got to me... teehee!!
 
My order shipped today. I've been waiting for what seems like forever, and wasn't expecting anything to come soon.



Now I just have to get replacement silicon seals. Thanks Bobby
 
Bobby_M said:
I think my favorite setup so far, which I just messed with after making the video, is the 1/2" male NPT female QD with a street elbow threaded on. You can grind those threads down into a smooth hose barb which is the most compact way to emulate the old mcmaster elbow connector. The bonus is, you don't "ruin" the camlock threads in case you have second thoughts.
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Hmm... just saw this. Bobby, is this the kind of elbow you're using?

http://www.qcsupply.com/qcsupply/br...reet+Elbow+-+Stainless+Steel+-+1/2"+90+Degree
 
I also found them here: https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=8599&step=4&id=368&top_cat=1

Their shipping for multiple items is significantly cheaper than mainland, which somewhat offsets mainland's low low prices. I got a total of $38 out the door for 6 from Mainland, and $31.84 from onlinemetals. Not much of a difference I suppose, but it's at least enough to buy an extra one.

Mainland is way cheaper than anywhere else I've found for hose barbs... too bad they don't have those 5/8 ones!
 
MacBruver said:
I also found them here: https://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=8599&step=4&id=368&top_cat=1

Their shipping for multiple items is significantly cheaper than mainland, which somewhat offsets mainland's low low prices. I got a total of $38 out the door for 6 from Mainland, and $31.84 from onlinemetals. Not much of a difference I suppose, but it's at least enough to buy an extra one.

Mainland is way cheaper than anywhere else I've found for hose barbs... too bad they don't have those 5/8 ones!
Click to expand...

I was kind of worried about the shipping with them as well. I emailed him and got a good deal. I got 8 streets, 2 course nipples, and a tee shipped for $41. I'll check out online metals and buyfittings online next time, I'm sure I missed stuff on this order. I was giddy since it was the first real purchase for the build. Oh Yeah, it's begun.
 
I order last week when the first parts came in and talked to the nice people at pro flow on the phone asking if i place a order would they hold the order untill the other parts come in and send everything at once and send them out as soon as they get them. I explaned that i needed them for the weekend and that i was two day air shipping. They said no problem. I talked to them yesterday as soon as the email came and they said that I would have them on friday. :ban: So stoked.
 
Wow. I can't believe how much these things caught on... Pro-flo owes me some dough! Surely before long a vendor here in the states will start carrying them. *nudge nudge*
 
Just got mine today. They changed my order for me to the Type B's so that I can use those street elbows. I can definitely see what Bobby was talking about with the gaskets... they're a little tough to seat with the stock ones, takes some effort. I'll be ordering some of those O-Rings to make things go a bit easier.

2010-04-30-14.35.15.jpg

Left to right: Type A, Type F, Type B
 
MacBruver said:
Just got mine today. They changed my order for me to the Type B's so that I can use those street elbows. I can definitely see what Bobby was talking about with the gaskets... they're a little tough to seat with the stock ones, takes some effort. I'll be ordering some of those O-Rings to make things go a bit easier.

2010-04-30-14.35.15.jpg

Left to right: Type A, Type B, Type F
Click to expand...
Type A, Type F, Type B :D
 
I got an email yesterday rrom Michael at ProFlow Dynamics saying he had a 100 food grade gaskets in stock, and did I want some. I do. And I thought others here might want some as well.
 
I'm wondering about whether putting the female fittings on tubing or on kettles makes for easier handling? Anyone experienced with these willing to offer words of wisdom about this before I buy?
 
Females on the tubing seems like it would make the most sense to me. At least that's what I plan to do...
 
It should work OK either way as long as you have enough room to swing the cam arms back to lock the fitting. I can take a pic and show you what female on the ball valve would look like..
 
I did the made'in run over the weekend. they are great. I had no problem locking them down and they did not leak a drop. I think i sold a few set at the big brew day we did behind the LHBS on saturday. What a great time, lots of home brews, food and friends some rare belgium were floating around and I had my first ever boil over :ban: on a 10 gallon batch of Smoked Wheat.
 
So for those of us not as inclined to grinding down the threads on the street elbows, do you think simply "threading" the silicone tubing over the 1/2" NPT elbow would seal? Obviously clamps would be needed but I imagine that would hold pretty tight. Any thoughts?
 
Ok, so I've narrowed it down to either these stainless camlocks from proflowdynamics or the brass quick-disconnects from McMaster. For my set-up, I need a total of 7 male (HLT, MLT, BK, 2 for March pump, 2 for plate chiller) and 6 female (for 3 silicone hoses). I would like to use elbows for the females to avoid kinking. So here is the breakdown of cost, WITHOUT SHIPPING:

McMaster Brass Quick-Disconnects
(7) male nipples: 1/2" MPT x 3/8" coupling, part 6739K59 @ $1.98 = $13.86
(6) 90 degree female sleeve: 3/8" coupling x 1/2" barb, 6739K68 @ $8.01 = $48.06
Total: $61.92

Proflowdynamics Stainless Camlocks
(7) male lock: Type F 1/2" @ $3.92 = $27.44
(6) female lock: Type B 1/2" @ $5.52 = $33.12
(6) 1/2" NPT street elbows (from buyfittingsonline.com) @ $3.02 = $18.12
Total: $78.68

So if you're setup is like mine and you want to use the elbows for hoses, then the McMaster brass QD's are about $17 cheaper. The brass QD's can also be used one-handed. But the camlocks are stainless and if you use the street elbows (either simply threading the silicone or grinding the threads down to make a barb), then you'll have less flow restriction than the brass QD's. Seems like you can't really go wrong with either one and they both offer great value, but for only $17 more I'm leaning towards the camlocks.
 
I think it's worth the $17 for the bling, the stainless, and the extra flow. $78 for all that hardware is still not a bad deal. That reminds me, I gotta order 6 street elbows. :)
 
I just ordered a bunch of these camlocks now that they are coming back in stock. Spoke to Michael today and the Type F and Type B's will be back in stock Monday.

I ordered 100 sets and will resell them to the forum at a 200% markup. Just kidding.

Just got 5 sets.
 
I was thinking more on the line of taking a flow restricting 1/2" barbed end female Camloc, cut off the barb then bore out to 0.625" hole. Take a piece of 0.625" stainless tubing of 0.058" wall thickness, add a hose bulb at the end preventing any hose blow off problems. The other end press fit and fusion Tig weld inside the female Camloc fitting. This will allow for 0.509" tubing ID bore for no flow restriction plus easy to pull 1/2" silicone tubing over the SS bulb and tubing stub. A simple quick lathe, flare bulb or bulge end then Tig it keeping everything in stainless as these Camlocs should flow.
http://eagletube.thomasnet.com/item...rd-fractional-tubing/s0625058t304sao?&seo=110
 
BrewBeemer said:
I was thinking more on the line of taking a flow restricting 1/2" barbed end female Camloc, cut off the barb then bore out to 0.625" hole. Take a piece of 0.625" stainless tubing of 0.058" wall thickness, add a hose bulb at the end preventing any hose blow off problems. The other end press fit and fusion Tig weld inside the female Camloc fitting. This will allow for 0.509" tubing ID bore for no flow restriction plus easy to pull 1/2" silicone tubing over the SS bulb and tubing stub. A simple quick lathe, flare bulb or bulge end then Tig it keeping everything in stainless as these Camlocs should flow.
http://eagletube.thomasnet.com/item...rd-fractional-tubing/s0625058t304sao?&seo=110
Click to expand...

You are definitely on the other end of the spectrum from me as far as welding and mechanical inclination is concerned. More power to you. I'll have to stick with the simple "threading the tubing over the street elbow" method for now.
 
BargainFittings said:
Seems to flow fine.

The hose barb measure .33" ID compared to .39" ID of my 1/2" SS hose barbs I sell.
Click to expand...

Making that female hose barb of 0.330" ID to 0.500" ID like I mentioned amounts to 2.29 times more cross sectional area, or only 43.56% of area if left at the said .33" ID vs the .500" tube ID idea I have. This is a lot of unrestricted volume that can be gained when dealing with low presssures that the March pumps put out. Like Bobby_M stated every bit counts, this is a big restriction not even near or adding the silicone tubings .500" ID with fluid friction alone. Add to this the head pressure. No whirlpool or very little action, see why now?
Why settle with what manufactures offer in a product when a large flow improvement can be made or corrected?
 
BrewBeemer,

If you start doing those modifications to the CamLocks, I would be interested in getting some from you. Especially if you can build them with a 90 degree elbow. I have had no problems with the "restricted" flow females in my rig and I get a great whirlpool in my kettle. More is always better, however. ;)
 

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