cpl-america
Well-Known Member
I've been using this at8001 for my keezer all winter. 220v. No problems until now. I looked at the screen yesterday, it was blinking h's and all my kegs were frozen! Any ideas?
temp controller fail
- Thread starter cpl-america
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
"When the sensor detects a temperature above 110 degrees, the display shows HHH"
So, probably a dead probe.
At least the beer should be okay once it's thawed out...
Cheers!
So, probably a dead probe.
At least the beer should be okay once it's thawed out...
Cheers!
OP
OP
cpl-america
Well-Known Member
thanks, i think it got wet, it might not have been water proof, would you happen to know where i can find a probe?
OP
OP
cpl-america
Well-Known Member
got a new probe in the mail, FINALLY. chinese shipping times are ridiculous!
However, the new probe continues to blink HHH even at room temperature. i'm guessing it is a hardware fault. Any ideas???
However, the new probe continues to blink HHH even at room temperature. i'm guessing it is a hardware fault. Any ideas???
Time for an STC-1000?
Sorry to read your experience with that controller. Seems pretty clear it's toast - which I'd consider an outlier, as you almost never read about actual controller failures on the forums, while probes die left and right (though mostly from drowning, immolation, or decapitation).
If you were able to replace that controller probe, you most likely have the skills to build a controller around something like the STC-1000. And there are a couple of really expansive "how to" threads to work from as well.
Whatever route you go, make sure to order a unit with operating voltage specs for your desired line power voltage. Eg: You can get the STC-1000 in 220v or 110v models (actually a couple of lower voltages as well), but you have to be specific when ordering. They'll all switch up to 220v, but their internal operating needs vary...
Cheers!
Sorry to read your experience with that controller. Seems pretty clear it's toast - which I'd consider an outlier, as you almost never read about actual controller failures on the forums, while probes die left and right (though mostly from drowning, immolation, or decapitation).
If you were able to replace that controller probe, you most likely have the skills to build a controller around something like the STC-1000. And there are a couple of really expansive "how to" threads to work from as well.
Whatever route you go, make sure to order a unit with operating voltage specs for your desired line power voltage. Eg: You can get the STC-1000 in 220v or 110v models (actually a couple of lower voltages as well), but you have to be specific when ordering. They'll all switch up to 220v, but their internal operating needs vary...
Cheers!
OP
OP
cpl-america
Well-Known Member
i actually ordered one yesterday, however, this controller is like the stc 1000's little brother, the only difference being that it only has one output, for either heating or cooling. not both.
