Huaco
Well-Known Member
What are the "preferred" gaps on a 3 roller grain mill?
Also... Are the gaps set before or after knurling the rollers?
Also... Are the gaps set before or after knurling the rollers?
Grain Mill Gaps
- Thread starter Huaco
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Huaco
Well-Known Member
Anyone?
I found some 1-3/4 round stock in the scrap pile. Not sure if it is hardened or not. Can hardened stock be knurled?
I found some 1-3/4 round stock in the scrap pile. Not sure if it is hardened or not. Can hardened stock be knurled?
monster mill(mm2) has their first gap around .60", crankenstein(3e) uses .70". The second gap is adjustable on both, 0" to .65" on MM, .1" to .7" for CS.
For harder material you would need more specialized (harder) tools. If this is just a one time project it's probably not worth buying cobalt, and would be easier/cheaper just to put a different finish on it. Maybe sand blast/steel bead it or dremel some grooves into it.
For harder material you would need more specialized (harder) tools. If this is just a one time project it's probably not worth buying cobalt, and would be easier/cheaper just to put a different finish on it. Maybe sand blast/steel bead it or dremel some grooves into it.
BryngelBrau
Active Member
The MM 3 roller mills are recommended at .037 - .055". I am running mine at 0.042" measured at the knurling with a fit that allows me to freely slide the gapper across the whole length of the rollers, I had it with a tight fit at 0.040" and I had to run to the LHBS for some rice hulls. I will probably adjust mine down a little more but I am getting about 75% efficiency now.
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Huaco
Well-Known Member
Are you gaping with feeler gauges?
heckels
Well-Known Member
Huaco said:
I think that's what she said...
BryngelBrau
Active Member
yes the 0.042" that I am currently using was done properly with a feeler gauge previously I tried a 0.040" but had it tight and it was way too fine a crush. dough balls formed instantly and too a great extent, what I thought was 0.040" was probably in the 0.03's]
I use .030 with my BC. If I had a MM3 I'd set it to .024.
.035 on my JSP Malt Mill. Feeler gauge.
[I'm sorry, I didn't read the OP fully. My mill is a 2 roller]
[I'm sorry, I didn't read the OP fully. My mill is a 2 roller]
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Huaco
Well-Known Member
So these gaps are obviously set tot the top of the knurl, right?
jeepinjeepin
Well-Known Member
Yeah, It would be pretty tough to measure down in the gaps. The grain is getting crushed by the peaks and not the valleys anyway.
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Huaco
Well-Known Member
Just getting some ducks in a row... i will need to see if i can knurl this round stock before i start designing the mill. If it can't be knurled I will rough it up somehow so that it grabs the grain and cracks it.
cyclogenesis
Well-Known Member
On my (two roll) BC I just used a credit card (read that somewhere)
I get a good crush and good sparge (~75% Eff.. but mainly due to temperature issues)
I get a good crush and good sparge (~75% Eff.. but mainly due to temperature issues)
.035 on my MM-3
jeepinjeepin
Well-Known Member
Huaco said:
Do you have a punch or drill and small bit? If you can punch a small dimple or start cutting with the drill bit you know that it can be machined. It's not scientific at all but will give you an idea. Don't spend several hundred dollars in the machine shop building a mill that you can buy for 2 hundred.
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Huaco
Well-Known Member
I have access to a Rockwell hardness tester... I will know this weekend EXACTLY how hard this stuff is!
Also, I work in metal fabrication and I am going to talk to the guy at the machine shop that does all our work to see if he would do the work for homebrew! Shouldn't be to much work. Maybe an hour or two a few nights a week. I operate SolidWorks. I will have it all laid out and ready to go when the time comes to make chips fly...
jeepinjeepin
Well-Known Member
Huaco said:
Awesome. Hope it works out.
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