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Yeah, it's a pain. Go front-loading if you can

White Labs and Wyeast lacto has a bit of yeast in there unfortunately. They all claim to be clean, but plate any and you'll get yeast. That's why purging is important to keep yeast growth to a minimum

Generally, you should be able to increase temp after high krausen (24-48hrs after knockout depending on yeast and pitch) without generating "extra" esters. Once the growth phase has passed fewer esters are formed, so a ramp-up at 36-48 hours into fermentation is ideal

Ultimate find would be a cheap front-loading cooler. If there are any bars changing ownership near you, might be able to snag a deal

That would allow unfiltered air in. If your keg hasn't imploded yet, it wont

A few other quick q's: -how long are you letting the bag drip into the kettle after lifting it out? Straight into the trash, or are you squeezing the sack? If you can get a gravity reading on the wort that drips out of the sack after you've pulled it out, that will tell you how much more sugar...

Fantastic that youre jumping into salt calcs already, but how are you fully adjusting your mash pH (ie. Acid of some form)? What's your Kettle Full pH? I love BIAB for small trials, but mash pH has been the largest contributor to inefficiency (if you're 100% sure all of your weights and volumes...

Definitely depends on yeast, gravity, and style, but you can definitely pull off a delicious lager in 4-6 weeks from grain to glass. Generally, you should hit terminal gravity within 2 weeks (optimally 7-10 days), then drop your yeast/rack to secondary, allow another 4-5 days of warm maturation...

Don't crash in the keg if you have no way to provide counter pressure. In theory your keg can handle a slight vacuum, but you'll more likely just find a way to pull in O2. If you can add a small amount of sugar and yeast to "keg condition," that might be your best bet. If you do crash, chances...

Depending on your pitch size, temp, O2 control, you can easily kettle sour in 12-24 hours, with 16-18 usually being enough to drop to 3.7pH if you can pitch a lacto starter at 10% of total volume (2L for a 5gal batch). Easiest way I've found to maintain temp is to pre-boil, then cool the wort...

Max possible gravity would be a no-sparge, first-runnings only brew, so max strength is just a matter of your liquor to grist ratio. Generally though, you're looking at 20-24P, depending on your grist

The 100% is conversion efficency. http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/Understanding_Efficiency

Egrain is your CGAI, m is in kg, V is in liters

67% doesn't sound too out of style for an Irish Red, but go w your taste. Yeast takes in O2 to build cell walls and split. If there's little/no growth they don't really continue to scavenge. The priming sugar may help reinvigorate the existing yeast. If you dont have the ability to do a cell...

30 and brew 2.5-7.5 gal batches usually twice monthly

Only problem w English yeasts is the need for additional diacetyl control, but generally the extended maturation period coincides with a dry hop rest/stand. Definitely 2nd the clean drop of 1968. That stuff floccs hard

Supply and demand. If we stop paying that much those beers won't be brewed... so hopefully those breweries haven't formed their business plans on the "If we build it, they will come" model

Commercial brewers typically pitch 1-3lbs of slurry per barrel (31 gal) of wort. Scaled down, that's roughly 75-225g of slurry per gallon. Check it out, here's a rough breakdown of how that may translate to dry yeast as per assuming that breweries are pitching a "thick slurry" of 4.5 billion...

Correct me if I'm wrong, please. Some of these assumptions may be a bit off, but those packets definitely don't have the 200 billion cells we all assumed. And the ingredients also list "emulsifier" which throws off the whole weight conversion because Commercial Brewers yeast would not.