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Thanks! That fixed it. I connected one hot leg to A1 and the second hot leg through SW6 to A2 and that worked great.

Thanks doug, I guess my question is how do I connect the second hot line and still keep the emergency power disconnect working. The SW6 has one NO and one NC block. I'm using the NC block for 1 hot leg to A1. Can I have the NC block connect to both the A1 and A2 to make it 240?

Working on building my control panel and am having issues getting my main power contactor to feed power to the rest of the unit. I have 240V to the incoming side but can't get it to pass through. I had 120v main power running through the Auberin SW6 power to the A1 and A2 went to neutral. I...

You may check out this page on e-Brewing supply as they use a lot of the same components. https://ebrewsupply.com/pages/wiring-guide-2018-draft

Am in the process of building a new 2 element control panel that models very closely to EBC-350 but with a kill switch. Does anyone have a good wiring diagram for this setup? Going to run a 50A in (6375M) with 2 - L6-30 plugs and 2 - L6-20 plugs out (pumps)...

The second vent will be great. Air will act like water so if you pulled from the bottom out to the fan it would cause 80% of the air flow to miss your heat sinks. Blowing the fan directly on them with a vent on the opposite side will cause everything to flow across the heat sinks for maximum...

The fan is a good idea but you may want to think about airflow in the box. You're blowing new air in without any place for the old air to get out. It will greatly reduce the amount of air flowing across your heat sinks. You may want to put a vent on the far side of the heat sinks or another...

I found mine a home recycling center. Took a few weeks but found a nice box for only $20.

Brewed up an all mosaic pilsner

A 2"x28" should hold about .4 gallons of wort. Not a massive amount even for a 5 gallon batch.

Rice mash is really thick and full of starch. The mass will not evenly (or quickly) distribute the heat without it being stirred up. The coil size for an immersion coil would be huge and require a massive effort to clean. Plus you'll need to make it out of stainless and not copper because of...

Corn?

Mmmm, cough syrup.

Looking great!

Keep a lookout for Block15 beers in bottle/can. Not Portland but hidden gem of Oregon that you won't find anywhere else. Hair of the Dog is my goto place when in town. Also like Eliptic and Deschutes (taproom only beers.)

Looks like SW4 turns on/off the second leg to the element converting it from 240 to 120v. Looking at the DSPR you can control power or set it to hold at a temp. I don't see where you can do both though. He will want the RIMS element to run at 50% power while maintaining mash temp.

I got my probe and everything fired right up. In looking through the programming guide I did see a section that stated it will not turn on the heater IF their is an error code on the display.

I've triple checked that and even swapped them just to be sure. Still nothing. I would expect to get a voltage reading from post 6 or 7 but it reads 0. Thinking it has to be that I don't have a TC hooked up to it. Mine is on the way but is a week out. Anyway to turn off the Temp reading...

I put a 9v on the SSR and it comes on and the element works. Hmmm, any settings on the Auber to specify the outgoing voltage? I do not have a PTD sensor hooked up to it yet but have it on power mode. Would that mater?

Great! That is what I've been looking for. Thanks.