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The thing that is going to control the amount of gas that you use is the size of the container that you are pushing the the beer out of. When all of the beer is gone, the container will be filled with gas no matter how much beer you start with. So if you want to get the most value for the co2...

The recipe in the link says it is an extract recipe, but 75% of the fermentables come from malt. There is only a half pound of extract and a couple pounds of different sugars. Did you replace some/all of the malt with extract? If not, what diid you do with the 13 pounds of grain?

The fizz and foaming worried me but, from Omega's website: "Propper Starter is carbonated just enough to maintain can integrity, so a hiss and a bit of foaming is normal!" Even with the date being what it is, as long as the can wasn't bulging and the contents didn't smell off, I'd probably...

This can be done, look here. It can be difficult getting started if you are't familiar with html.

Baby please...I am not from Havana.

I would like a coupon, please. Thanks.

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This guy has done something like this at home using a storage container.

Look at this.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/refractometer-calculator/ Might have to copy and paste. Doesn't look like it is a link on my end.

Like Gnomebrewer said, when using a refract on fermented wort/beer, you have to correct the reading. This is because of the alcohol present, not the temp. I ran your numbers for the NEIPA throught the calc on Brewer's Friend and got 1.007 for the corrected FG. Do the beers taste overly sweet?

Are you measuring the gravity with a hydrometer or refractometer? After fermentation, when alcohol is present, the refract reading will need to be adjusted. I plugged your numbers into Brewers Freinds caculator and the corrected reading was 1.013, so if you are using a refract, it is probably...

You didn't mention and no one asked yet, unless I missed it, did you take your FG rading with a hydrometer or refractometer? Refractometer readings need to be adjusted after fermentation as the presence of alcohol will skew the reading. 1.032 is in the neighborhood of a beer that is done but...

From reading, not from expeience, I think boiling a decoction is ok because the grist will lower the ph in the mash. It takes high temps and high ph to extract the tannins. In this case, there were probably not enough grains to lower the ph to a "safe" level. There were likely tannins...

Because you didn't also change the brew house efficiency. The brewhouse efficiency dropping is the "correct" response when only the trub loss goes up, but BS doesn't calculate that, you enter it. There is a measured brewhouse efficiency in the session tab, though. Does that number match what...

Changes to the kettle losses do effect the pre-boil gravity and mash efficiency correctly, just not intuitively. Like you said, everything is built on the fixed brew house efficiency. That sets the percentage of the sugar from the grain that gets into the fermentor. All of the other...

Before you buy a burner, I would look into your apartments policy on propane use. In the apartments I have lived in you were not allowed to use propane on decks/balconies and not within 10 feet of the building. Would suck spending money on something you find out you can't use. I got one of...

I think this is where the disconnect is. Even though you are going to use 5 gallons to sparge, you need to collect your full boil volume, over 9 gallons, so you need to set the flow rate to go though more than 9 gallons in an hour, not 5.

Do this. I read the first post twice and didn't see that volumes of the kettles were given. Sorry for over complicating the issue.

The way I suggested, with the ends of the hoses submerged, the level/height of the wort in the pots would be the same in each. The hose between them will act as a siphon and keep the level equal. If the pot diameters are different and the height is the same, the volume in each will be...