Dealing with FG 1.032

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FatherDougal

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I had a batch that has has so much gone weird I feel like it is somehow sucking up all my mistakes from my other batches so they can finish intact. Second batch I made on my own.

Manged to lose 1/3 of the finished wort in a cooling accident, and I ended up turning a 5 gallon batch into a 2.5 gallon batch, but with a higher than planned gravity. OG was 1.090. Used WLP550, so not worried about it being able to deal with the higher gravity. Bad seal on the plug caused mild panic, since no bubbles but thanks to reading things here I didn't do anything other than check gravity after about 2.5 days and it had dropped to 1.040, so, clearly fermentiation going on.

I decided not to mess with it, let it sit for 5 1/2 weeks in the primary and then did a terrible job of racking it to my bottling bucket. Made it, but probably with added oxygen. (sigh, hate siphoning.) Checked the FG and it was 1.032. I really didn't like the idea of bottling that, even though it tasted fine, for fear of bottle bombs. I rinsed and sanitized the carboy and moved it back, which was a lot easier from the bottling bucket, but probably added more oxygen in the process.

Currently re-hydrating some US-05, which I plan to pitch and see if it can finish up the ferment and hopefully clean up the extra O2.

I didn't think of asking what to do here before acting, darn, but I am curious of you all have any thoughts. Was there a better way to deal with this? Would bottling have been safe? If the yeasties had stopped would they have even woken up and carbonated if I had bottled? Any thoughts or advice would be welcome.
 
If it sat for 5 1/2 weeks at room temps, that beer is finished. Unless you add a yeast that can chew up the remaining sugar composition, it's gonna stay there.

Alcohol is already quite high, so just pitching rehydrated US-05 won't probably not do anything, it's not prepared for that harsh environment. Now you could make a gallon (or 2) of beer with that US-05, say with an OG of 1.050. Then pitch that into your stalled beer when it reaches high krausen, usually a day or 2 after pitching. The yeast will be in top condition at that point and able to gnaw down on those sugars if it can.
 
Wlp550 is notorious for taking forever to finish. How warm can you get your fermenter? Last time I used that yeast I left it in my 85° garage for a couple weeks to finish.
 
On a side note, did you taste it yet? How is it?

Tasted fine, good even. I'm not used to to tasting un-carbonated beer, but I liked it. That's one reason I don't want to lose it.

Since I already rehydrated I will see what happens, although I expect you are right. I have several batches close to bottling, one on S-04 and the other on WLP500. Would taking some of the yeast from one of those work?
 
Wlp550 is notorious for taking forever to finish. How warm can you get your fermenter? Last time I used that yeast I left it in my 85° garage for a couple weeks to finish.


I don't have any sort of temperature control. If I put it outside I risk really high temps. I keep my place at 68 and have several other batches going, so don't really want to raise it since it could mess them up.

It is off the WLP550 already, although I did save it, thinking I might want to use it again later. I could in theory put it back.....
 
heat that ***** up, 68f aint gonna cut the mustard. even if its 100f out and u put that fermenter out there for a couple hours it aint gonna be 100f.
 
I don't have any sort of temperature control. If I put it outside I risk really high temps. I keep my place at 68 and have several other batches going, so don't really want to raise it since it could mess them up.

It is off the WLP550 already, although I did save it, thinking I might want to use it again later. I could in theory put it back.....

For that yeast, heat is good. You almost can't go too hot.
 
Tasted fine, good even. I'm not used to to tasting un-carbonated beer, but I liked it. That's one reason I don't want to lose it.

Since I already rehydrated I will see what happens, although I expect you are right. I have several batches close to bottling, one on S-04 and the other on WLP500. Would taking some of the yeast from one of those work?

Glad it tastes good, it's worth tinkering with it.

Probably too late, you probably pitched it already. But if you can make at least a vitality starter a la brulosophy.com with half that rehydrated US-05 in 2 quarts of 1.040 wort, or exercise a "Shaken not stirred" method on it, then pitch the yeast which will be optimally viable to take a shot at it.

The other yeasts you have stored would need to be woken up too to get them vital enough for the job. I doubt they would have an edge over WLP550.

You didn't mention your starter size or oxygenation level at pitching time, but these high gravity ales need both to be fairly high to finish out. The only trouble WLP550 gives me she flocculates out into a rubbery sheet, which is hard to rouse.

I've moved stalled HG beers like that into a keg, yeast and all, purged, then swirled, shaken, rolled, warming up, with NO effect. 1.030-032 forever. That's before I started oxygenating instead of simply aerating.

Definitely warm her up toward the end of the fermentation; that's how Belgian yeasts finish out well. It you start at 66-68F, you need to gradually ramp temps to 74F (even higher) before it finishes and flocs out.
 
Thanks for all the advice!

The main issue with my doing things after dinner is if something goes wrong I'm tired when I have to deal with it. A starter would have been smart!

The WLP500 and S-04 are not in storage in the fridge, they are under beer in primaries that are days away from being bottled. Normal gravity beers. So maybe some of one of those cakes would help?

I now have an air pump but I did not when I made this, so I doubt it was well oxygenated. I had a small starter planned for a 1.050-ish 5 gallon batch. I read all about high gravity beers once I realized I had ended up making one, so will be much more prepared when I do one on purpose

I saw some growth and a few bubbles this morning, will see how that looks when I get home after work.

I won't mind if it stays at a high FG as long as I can still bottle and carb it without bombs. If it stalls again, could I bottle it normally?

I could put it into the tub with warm water. Probably the only means of temp control I have. Better than nothing?

The other thing I just thought of would be adding water or low gravity wort and then trying to finish it is a regular beer. Would that be a backup, plan, or am I better off just bottling it at the higher FG?

Thanks again, if nothing else this is been good for learning.
 
Thanks for all the advice!

The main issue with my doing things after dinner is if something goes wrong I'm tired when I have to deal with it. A starter would have been smart!

The WLP500 and S-04 are not in storage in the fridge, they are under beer in primaries that are days away from being bottled. Normal gravity beers. So maybe some of one of those cakes would help?

I now have an air pump but I did not when I made this, so I doubt it was well oxygenated. I had a small starter planned for a 1.050-ish 5 gallon batch. I read all about high gravity beers once I realized I had ended up making one, so will be much more prepared when I do one on purpose

I saw some growth and a few bubbles this morning, will see how that looks when I get home after work.

I won't mind if it stays at a high FG as long as I can still bottle and carb it without bombs. If it stalls again, could I bottle it normally?

I could put it into the tub with warm water. Probably the only means of temp control I have. Better than nothing?

The other thing I just thought of would be adding water or low gravity wort and then trying to finish it is a regular beer. Would that be a backup, plan, or am I better off just bottling it at the higher FG?

Thanks again, if nothing else this is been good for learning.

Those yeast cakes are mostly dormant now, they would need to be revitalized too, to be useful to resurrect a stalled fermentation.

I'd say the lack of oxygen has a lot to do with it finishing high, as well as an underpitch. A slight drop of temps during a night could have coaxed the yeast into floccing out prematurely, instead of a temp raise around that time. Or a combination of those factors.

A warm area may help, as well as gently rousing a couple times a day to keep the yeast in suspension.

Adding a low gravity wort will only dilute the alcohol and residual sugars, and may not yield a better beer in the end, even if everything works out. IMO, it's mostly maltotriose that's leftover, the yeast being unable to digest, because it lost the ability. The yeast has also been exposed for 5.5 weeks to an alcohol rich beer, which doesn't help vitality.

Let's see what happens with your new fresh pitch. Just keep it warm, at least 74F or a bit higher if possible.

When I run out of fermentation chamber space I stick buckets in an Igloo cooler and drape a thick sleeping bag over it to keep the temps stable, sealing in the heat or cold. I've used an aquarium heater to raise the temps. Those with manual temp settings are the best of course.
 
You didn't mention and no one asked yet, unless I missed it, did you take your FG rading with a hydrometer or refractometer? Refractometer readings need to be adjusted after fermentation as the presence of alcohol will skew the reading. 1.032 is in the neighborhood of a beer that is done but read with a refract.
 
A couple of thoughts.

-- I suggest checking gravity on bottling day before racking in the future.

-- If you have a seed warming mat, you can wrap it around the tub of water and turn it on and off as needed. I use a timer. It warms the tub and fermenter a few degrees. I'm careful about cinching it down too tight to avoid electrical problems.
 
A couple of thoughts.

-- I suggest checking gravity on bottling day before racking in the future.

-- If you have a seed warming mat, you can wrap it around the tub of water and turn it on and off as needed. I use a timer. It warms the tub and fermenter a few degrees. I'm careful about cinching it down too tight to avoid electrical problems.

These are excellent points! ^^^

Similarly, I've used heating pads wrapped around buckets and carboys, plugged into a temp controller (ST-1000).
 
You didn't mention and no one asked yet, unless I missed it, did you take your FG rading with a hydrometer or refractometer? Refractometer readings need to be adjusted after fermentation as the presence of alcohol will skew the reading. 1.032 is in the neighborhood of a beer that is done but read with a refract.

A hydrometer, don't own a refractometer.
 
A couple of thoughts.

-- I suggest checking gravity on bottling day before racking in the future.

-- If you have a seed warming mat, you can wrap it around the tub of water and turn it on and off as needed. I use a timer. It warms the tub and fermenter a few degrees. I'm careful about cinching it down too tight to avoid electrical problems.

Indeed, I will in the future. I hate trying to get samples from carboys, but I'm not likely to use those much in the future, so will be easy to do. Mainly it never occurred to me it wouldn't have finished, so lesson learned.

I have a cooler I can put warm water in, so will see about using that.
 
When I run out of fermentation chamber space I stick buckets in an Igloo cooler and drape a thick sleeping bag over it to keep the temps stable, sealing in the heat or cold. I've used an aquarium heater to raise the temps. Those with manual temp settings are the best of course.

Thanks lots! I didn't really like the diluting idea so glad to write it off. I have a cooler and will try that.
 
Indeed, I will in the future. I hate trying to get samples from carboys, but I'm not likely to use those much in the future, so will be easy to do. Mainly it never occurred to me it wouldn't have finished, so lesson learned.

I have a cooler I can put warm water in, so will see about using that.

Snake a thin sanitized hose down into the beer. Suck to get it started, then siphon out enough for a hydrometer/taste sample into a plastic beaker (e.g., take-out food container). 2' of 5/16"OD-3/16"ID tubing works great! I keep a piece like that permanently stored in my Starsan bucket.

You need to refresh that warm water fairly often, every 2-6 hours, to keep the temps. This is fine if you're babysitting.

For cooling I use 2-4 frozen pint-size water bottles. They melt slowly over 6-18 hours. Sadly we can't perform the same trick with hot water... How about the wife's heating pad/blanket? It's for a noble cause: :mug:
 
Snake a thin sanitized hose down into the beer. Suck to get it started, then siphon out enough for a hydrometer/taste sample into a plastic beaker (e.g., take-out food container). 2' of 5/16"OD-3/16"ID tubing works great! I keep a piece like that permanently stored in my Starsan bucket.

You need to refresh that warm water fairly often, every 2-6 hours, to keep the temps. This is fine if you're babysitting.

For cooling I use 2-4 frozen pint-size water bottles. They melt slowly over 6-18 hours. Sadly we can't perform the same trick with hot water... How about the wife's heating pad/blanket? It's for a noble cause: :mug:

Thank you

Oddly enough, Father Dougal is not married ;)

I got home and there is definitely more yeast on top, and there is bubbling. About one every 20-25 seconds. Not a full krausen but has only been 18 hours since I pitched the new yeast. For now I will let it go, but over the weekend I can do some babysitting and try and keep it warmer. Thinking of putting a cooler into the tub, for easy filling and emptying.
 
Oddly enough, Father Dougal is not married ;)

I got home and there is definitely more yeast on top, and there is bubbling. About one every 20-25 seconds. Not a full krausen but has only been 18 hours since I pitched the new yeast. For now I will let it go, but over the weekend I can do some babysitting and try and keep it warmer. Thinking of putting a cooler into the tub, for easy filling and emptying.

I just listed some obvious advantages to marriage. Sorry, you're on your own here, Father... ;)

I'm so glad you're having activity where it counts most... <uhm>

Make sure to cover the cooler and content to keep the heat in.

I now have a spare bathroom where the temps are just great for finishing Belgians in Summer. Or lagering in Winter. They conveniently omitted an AC/heating duct in there... I'm working on that, but not very hard obviously. ;) Doubles up as a darkroom in between. An all-season room, so to speak.
 
After checking that it would not mess up anything else in the pipeline, I turned up the temp in the house to 77. Had the same slow but steady bubbling for about a day, then it died off. What little krausen there was has fallen. So, re-pitching the rehydrated dry did a bit but not much.

As it happens, I am about start a new batch using WLP500. I'm wondering if I can skim some of that from the top in a day or two and put that in. The conditions would be similar if I wait twoish days and that yeast all woken up and going. Worth a try? If so, how much to transfer?
 
So in addition to the US-05, I did end up taking some of the WLP500 from the batch I started and added it as well. That was on the 28th. I wasn't sure I had added enough to matter, and had been thinking I would check it when I was done the other batch and maybe add 1/4 of the cake. Turns out that the FG is now 1.012. Going to check it again in a few days and if not changed bottle it. It looked like there were little bubbles coming up in the hydrometer, so I am wondering if it is not yet done.

I do have a thin white/gray film, which as far as I can tell has had no effect on the taste. I tried the hydro sample and it was good. It also isn't at all harsh or hot, which I'm a little surprised at since 1.090 to 1.012 would be over 10% ABV. I'm wondering if it could be a very thin krausen? From what I have read on here people get that and if there is no bad taste just ignore it and often things are fine.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks lots!
 

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