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Currently I'm using the "Clear Beer Draught System" with screen filter and it has worked flawlessly over multiple batches. I need to buy one more and I saw the FLOT2.0 got good reviews and it's less money ($29 vs $53 for Clear Beer shipped). I know there are some even cheaper versions out...

I've been using Perlick faucets since I built my kegerator almost 10 years ago. They've been mostly trouble free, but in the last year or so, I've had some leaks. I've taken them apart and put them back together and that seemed to fix it temporarily. I'm thinking after 10 years, maybe it's...

Probably dumb question, but can I use this for beer line in my kegerator? It's 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD. The previous line I was using was black and 7/16" OD so this is much thinner, but all the specs listed make it seem like it should be fine. Wanted to make sure before I take everything apart. TIA

I've been brewing for awhile but lately I feel like BeerSmith is telling me to add too much starting water. I do full volume BIAB and today when I brewed, at the end of mash, I had about 0.4 gal too much wort and my gravity was about 0.005 under target. And my grain still had more liquid I...

This applies to anything on eBay really but coupon code HAPPY25 gets you $25 off $25 on anything on eBay so I bought a pound of citra hops for <$4. Apparently it doesn’t work for everyone but worked for me last night.

In summer I generally stop cooling around 75F since it takes so long to cool any more. It takes my chest freezer fermentation chamber less than a hour to lower the temp to the low 60’s where I like to start fermentation. Should I wait to add the yeast until it’s chilled completely or is it okay...

So I've tried a couple bottles of my kettle soured berliner weisse and it's got what I would describe as an astringent feeling/tart taste in the back of my throat while drinking it. It really hits you in the back of the throat and not your whole mouth. My process was mash, pre-acidify to...

Does anyone use a plastic carbonator cap with a bottle smaller than a 1 or 2 liter plastic soda bottle? I have a 1 L soda bottle and it works just fine. I bought a 500 ml Pepsi bottle and no matter what I do, the cap doesn't make an air tight seal. I have some 12 oz bottle of home brew that's...

So a few friends and I brewed the same beer and put it in a barrel to age it. Well it turned sour. I ended up bottling it and it actually has become pretty tasty. One of the guys aged his on cherries and it scored very well in a competition. Well they’ve been in the bottle for about 1.5...

I have access to a pH at work. Can I pull off a sample of wort on brew day and then bring it into work and measure it then? Will it change? It would be 48 hours or less.

Brewed a big beer on Sunday (1.105). Pitched 2 packs of dry yeast (S04) that I rehydrated. Added 90 secs of O2 before pitching and another 60 seconds about 15 hours after pitching. This was a 3.5 gal batch into a 6 gal bucket, so I didn't see any bubbles in the blowoff tube, but that's normal...

I'm thinking you could pop the top of a chilled beer, drop a couple beans in, wait a couple days and then you'd have a coffee beer. Anything wrong with this plan?

I just did a split 5 gal batch with 2 different yeasts, so I will be kegging around 2.5 gal into a 5 gal keg. I know I could buy a smaller keg, but that will be at least $50 plus shipping. How much gas am I wasting by kegging in a bigger vessel? Is wasted gas the only disadvantage...

I brewed 4 days ago. It was a 4 gal batch that I put into a 6.5 gallon bucket with an S shaped airlock. I used a fresh starter that behaved normally. If I press on the top of the bucket, the water level in the airlock moves. But I haven't seen any airlock activity. I'm 99% sure the beer is...

Pardon my ignorance, but in 4+ years brewing, I've never used leaf hops. But my LHBS was out of simcoe pellets, so I got the leaf hops. My usual procedure is to dry how loose in the primary and then cold crash for a couple days and the pellet hops will settle out. Will leaf hops behave the...

I've seen conflicting info online. I'm seen S04 mentioned, but that it might give more "English" character and S05 would be too clean and not give enough. I've seen someone mention Nottingham and the specs kind of match up and someone said it was equivalent to WLP039, which is a dry British...

Note: This is my modified version of the recipe that Modern Times posted to the BeerSmith database. I loved this beer when I had a can a few months so I emailed the brewery and after a few weeks they responded with the link to the recipe on the BeerSmith database, which I thought was awesome...

So I have an 11% imperial stout that was in primary for 5 weeks and secondary for 3 months. I've been trying to research on when to add yeast at bottling and it seems there is no real consensus on when it's necessary, but it is cheap insurance. Most seem to recommend adding a small portion...

I have a porter recipe that I'd like to increase the SG and therefore the ABV. Would I just increase the base malt or would I increase every ingredient to maintain the same percentages? Or something in between? The recipe is marris otter, pale wheat malt, chocolate malt, English black malt...

So I've always used the "set and forget" method and my kegs have always carbed well in a couple weeks. Well I bought a new keg and used it for my last batch. Now I'm on day 23 and it's still not carbed totally. There is some carbonation, but not enough. The only odd thing I noticed is that...