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Galvanic corrosion also happens with aluminum and stainless. Keep it clean and dry and it won't happen.

Ahh...now I can see your picture. Any chance you didn't dry it well or left wort in it after brewing? I'd use a Scotch Brite pad to bring it back to bare aluminum and then do a full boil with just water to get an oxide layer before using it. After that clean it with a soft rag or sponge...

I can't see your picture, but are you sure it's rust and not the protective oxidized layer that forms when you boil for the first time? For years I (and a lot of other brewers) used an aluminum kettle with brass ball valve and never had that problem. So, the answer to your question, "Should...

Or he died from CO poisoning. ;)

So, you'll be going around your house re-wiring all your lamps and other appliances with 14 gauge (or 12 gauge if plugged into a 20 amp circuit) cord? :rolleyes: Now, the dude on here that bypassed the internal fuse because it kept blowing ....... he has a problem.

Pitch more yeast if gravity hadn't changed (dead yeast) Swirl to resuspend if you have a stuck fermentation. Raise temperature to help yeast finish their job. Probably a lot more that I'm not thinking of. The point is, yes, if you're bottling, you have to.

If you're bottling, you will want to take consecutive readings to be sure that gravity isn't still dropping. Not "might". Lot of reasons a beer can keep dropping even after three weeks. Especially for a new brewer. You don't want that happening in the bottle. Bottle bombs are not fun. Could be...

OG = Original Gravity FG = Final Gravity SG = Specific Gravity (both OG and FG are SG readings) Two of the same SG readings taken 2-3 days apart means the last one was actually your FG Don't take the first one before 10 days Don't toss the sample. Drink it. It'll give you an idea...

:confused:

I think of mashing as being synonymous with conversion. Since the conversion takes place in the kernel, I think of pre-mash for these grains as the time before the roasting process. You're using pre-mash to discribe something done by the malster before the brewer mashes, but we're saying the...

Actually, it's the heat from roasting or kilning that causes the starches to be converted into sugars. The "pre mashing" process is malting. That's when germination takes place and enzymes are developed for later conversion.

:confused:

Which is it? Do I put them in from the beginning before I lauter or do I put them in when I sparge? :confused:

One up. Seam got too hot on my hand and I dropped my CDN into the boil. Fished it out with a long spoon. Didn't miss a beat. (Yeah, I know. The temperature was boiling. So why was I checking?) I’ve got to wonder how a calibratable thermometer can be off by 5 to 10 degrees. :confused:

No rinse sanitizer or cheap vodka if you're OCD. edit: three posts all at 12:22. must have beat me by seconds :(

Didn't know you BIAB?

I'd think that the starch would be bad for stability, but in a beer that doesn't hang around long, it probably wouldn't matter.

Pre-heat and store in a cooler.

Depends on the mash thickness and gravity of your cold steep. Adding that you wouldn't want to add the cold steep to your fermenter without it going through a boil. And since the sugars from steeping crystal malts are less fermentable it won't change your FG by much.

Starsan only works when it's moist. Don't fear the foam!