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Used lemishine (acid) then vinegar, dissolved all of it, thanks all!

I have both lye and vinegar, will try vinegar soon...

Feel free to step into my thread... :) https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=565619

Nope, dropped into the inside, hence the issue.

So I had my glass carboys sitting in the garage with oxy clean soaking to clean up, and along comes my 18 month old who thinks its fun to put sidewalk chalk in things! I find it say a month later, no big deal you think, that will come right out, wrong--some kind of residue I cannot get out...

yep, could exceed a threshold...

One of the latest brew strong podcast (that is with John Palmer) talks about "hot side aeration" and how, while its not "preferable," it is nothing to lose sleep over. If Charlie Bamforth says its not a big deal, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

Boy, I sure would...I would hate to drop any temp at all if a yeast is finishing up.

OP, do this one, not the jug of water! I use bubble wrap or any kind of insulation and a rubber bungee that fits just right over the carboy...you want the temp of the wort, not some random jug of water...

Overall, I think the whole "cold crashing" phenomena is overrated, ESPECIALLY if you keg. Source of suck back, oxygen staling, and supposedly yeast can produce unwanted flavors from "shocking" it (not going slow with the temp drop). If you keg your beer, simply transfer it to a keg warm...

You cold crashing in a carboy/bucket? How do you keep oxygen out when dropping temps? This was the problem I had, ended up just transferring to pressurized keg, cold crash and gelatin in that and of course the gunk you comes out in the first half pint...

Interesting...I had always heard the same as the OP too...(no O2 once you see activity). So many inconsistencies and opinion in this science/hobby...

Maybe try it 6 hrs after pitch? How big are your yeast pitches?

As long as it actually ferments out by 7 days. you might lose a bunch of dryhop that early. You don't rehydrate wet yeast (which is what White Labs 001 is)--if you are using dry yeast, that takes a bit longer to get going in my experience and you rehydrate 30 mins before, not the night...

OP, just a comment on making a dunkel, if you plan on using 100% or close of munich malt, make sure its the type that converts well. I used gambrinus 10L once and it did not ferment well...OR dump in a couple pounds of pilsner to ensure sufficient enzymes if you want...

I think you mean 830. OP, check the 820 White labs page... http://www.whitelabs.com/yeast/wlp820-oktoberfestm%C3%A4rzen-lager-yeast Looks good for it European Style Dark & Munchner 4 It looks like a low attenuator, so adjust accordingly for that. If you want to start from scratch with...

Seems like you intended for a pic or a link and missed it, I am interested if you could redo it!

Are reliable flow meters as easy to find as reliable thermocouples? I haven't ever used flow meters, but it seems like a "large error" instrument (just intuitively). I think it would be awesome to have one, but it may be a larger hurdle than a simple temp number??

The part in red is kind of true, BUT!! you get to "cool it" multiple times in the same time frame...more importantly, you can keep recirculating until you hit your target, where it may or may not be possible to reach the target in one pass the other way. As far as the HLT idea, just seems...

It just seems like a lot of work when I could literally "do nothing" instead. Not seeing the benefit yet--if there is no autolysis there is no benefit, correct?