3 Week Grain to Glass with Biofine Clear

[smeltz]

Me and two buddies saved for 5 months to go All grain. We did our first 5gal batch, and will attempt our first 10gal batch. We're continuing to brew an IPA/Double IPA. If I
1. first hydrate my yeast(White Labs #1) the night before
2. dry hop the primary after 3 days
3. let primary sit a total of 7 days
4. Add Biofine Clear to secondary
5. Let secondary sit for 3 days
6. Bottle

Will this workout? I know some slight risks will be taken here, but this will be a one time thing(just to get some beer and gratification for saving $ to brew). Or is it a HUGE no no?

 

[rpe290]

Me and two buddies saved for 5 months to go All grain. We did our first 5gal batch, and will attempt our first 10gal batch. We're continuing to brew an IPA/Double IPA. If I
1. first hydrate my yeast(White Labs #1) the night before
2. dry hop the primary after 3 days
3. let primary sit a total of 7 days
4. Add Biofine Clear to secondary
5. Let secondary sit for 3 days
6. Bottle

Will this workout? I know some slight risks will be taken here, but this will be a one time thing(just to get some beer and gratification for saving $ to brew). Or is it a HUGE no no?

As long as it actually ferments out by 7 days. you might lose a bunch of dryhop that early.

You don't rehydrate wet yeast (which is what White Labs 001 is)--if you are using dry yeast, that takes a bit longer to get going in my experience and you rehydrate 30 mins before, not the night before.

Your best chance at a fast fermented beer is a little bit oversized pitch of active (high kruesen starter) liquid yeast & good oxygenation.

I'm confused by your question, it is either done fermenting at 3-7 days or its not, you don't get to bottle if its not done...

 

[JustLooking]

Me and two buddies saved for 5 months to go All grain. We did our first 5gal batch, and will attempt our first 10gal batch. We're continuing to brew an IPA/Double IPA. If I
1. first hydrate my yeast(White Labs #1) the night before
You don't re-hydrate liquid yeast. You make a starter.
2. dry hop the primary after 3 days
You should wait until final gravity is reached before dry hopping.
3. let primary sit a total of 7 days
Only if you've reached final gravity and held there for a couple of days
4. Add Biofine Clear to secondary
Never use it. Can't help you.
5. Let secondary sit for 3 days
In this time frame a secondary may not be the best idea.
Especially if you're dry hopping in the primary.
6. Bottle
Check for stable gravity before you bottle.

Will this workout? I know some slight risks will be taken here, but this will be a one time thing(just to get some beer and gratification for saving $ to brew). Or is it a HUGE no no?

 

[Foosier]

I would agree that you bottle when it is done. I would be very careful trying to rush the process. Rushing could lead you to less than tasty beer. If you have made the investment to go all grain, do it right. Take the time to do each step properly. Do not cut corners on your first batch. Commercial beer or homebrew from previous batches can be used to get you through the wait.

The reality is, you are going to make mistakes with your first All grain batch. Most will not cause any issues, but they are definitely things you will learn from. Don't make it any harder than you need to.

 

[smeltz]

Ok, so my initial thought was to reduce the time from 6 weeks to 3 weeks. It looks like 4 weeks is a better bet. At the end of the day, Im just hoping the Biofine Clear will reduce my secondary time to 3 days. From what yinz are telling me, it goes like this:
1. (White Labs #1) STARTER yeast the night before. Btw, if Im doing a starter, do I still need 2 vials for a 10gal batch?
2. Let primary sit until FG is stable.
3. Dry hop primary for 7 days
4. Rack to secondary with Biofine Clear for 3 days
5. Bottle

my 3 biggest questions here are:
1. Will I need 2 vials of yeast if I make a starter?
2. Is dry hopping for 7 days enough?
3. Do finings typically reduce secondary times from 2 weeks to 3 days? (sounds like voodoo)

Thanks!!

 

[freisste]

Ok, so my initial thought was to reduce the time from 6 weeks to 3 weeks. It looks like 4 weeks is a better bet. At the end of the day, Im just hoping the Biofine Clear will reduce my secondary time to 3 days. From what yinz are telling me, it goes like this:
1. (White Labs #1) STARTER yeast the night before. Btw, if Im doing a starter, do I still need 2 vials for a 10gal batch?
2. Let primary sit until FG is stable.
3. Dry hop primary for 7 days
4. Rack to secondary with Biofine Clear for 3 days
5. Bottle

my 3 biggest questions here are:
1. Will I need 2 vials of yeast if I make a starter?
2. Is dry hopping for 7 days enough?
3. Do finings typically reduce secondary times from 2 weeks to 3 days? (sounds like voodoo)

Thanks!!

1 - most likely. I think you said this is a 10 gallon batch. Check yeastcalculator.com for the required starter size.

2 - probably. Depending on the size of the dry hop, the hop strain, and the temp of the beer. For an IIPA, more is better.

3 - I don't secondary. But to answer your question (since secondary is not a fermenter, but a clearing station) yes finings will speed the process. So will cold crashing, good hot break/cold break, etc.

 

[JustLooking]

.

my 3 biggest questions here are:
1. Will I need 2 vials of yeast if I make a starter?
Depends on the age of the yeast and the size of the starter.
See Mr Malty or other yeast calculator.
2. Is dry hopping for 7 days enough?
7 days would be the maximum I'd dry hop for.
3. Do finings typically reduce secondary times from 2 weeks to 3 days? (sounds like voodoo)
For an IPA, the only reason for a secondary is if it is your preference to dry hop there. In this case, I'd wait for fermentation to end and the beer to start to clear (probably 10-14 days), then dry hop for four days right in the primary. This is only if you have a good pitch and temperature control.

 

[wilserbrewer]

While 3 weeks grain to glass may not be ideal, it is certainly doable. Pitch heavy and pitch healthy, bottle at 10 -14 days. Bottle condition around 70 degrees and the bottles should carb in 7-10 days. Bottling after 7 days is a little tight IMO.

 

[smeltz]

While 3 weeks grain to glass may not be ideal, it is certainly doable. Pitch heavy and pitch healthy, bottle at 10 -14 days. Bottle condition around 70 degrees and the bottles should carb in 7-10 days. Bottling after 7 days is a little tight IMO.

By pitching healthy and heavy, does that mean that I can purchase one vial of White Labs #1, let grow for a few days and stir it in heavily thus creating a ton of oxidation?

Thanks in advance!! This forum has been a godsend

 

[Natdavis777]

Utilizing a yeast calculator that you can find online will help you with the correct starter size for your beer. As for the process, I wouldnt advise you try and rush through it like others have stated. I think your best bet would be to make the healthy starter and give the finished wort enough aeration. Once your krausen falls, you are good to dry hop in the primary. If you do this too soon, while co2 is still venting, you are going to loose some of that aroma. Dry hop for whatever your heart desires, and then bottle. I wouldnt bother with the biofine. Not saying it doesnt work, but you are going to bottle the beer and let it sit for at least two weeks. I keg 99% of the time, but the beers I have bottled have been pretty clear by the time they were carbed.

I would guess that you would be able to dry hop around day 7, then bottle on day 14, then crack one open on day 28.

 

[wilserbrewer]

By pitching healthy and heavy, does that mean that I can purchase one vial of White Labs #1, let grow for a few days and stir it in heavily thus creating a ton of oxidation?

Thanks in advance!! This forum has been a godsend

If your in a hurry, just use 2 packs of dry s05 safale yeast, of course if the gravity is that high to warrant.

Building a starter will take a few days fwiw.

Have you brewed this yet

Pitching heavy and healthy yeast means just pitching a slightly more than adequate quantity of healthy yeast...that's all. Same strain 05 as 001 except 05 is dry yeast, and if your looking to save time and effort, dry yeast is a good route.


Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/

 

[wilserbrewer]

If your in a hurry, just use 2 packs of dry s05 safale yeast, of course if the gravity is that high to warrant.

Building a starter will take a few days fwiw.

Have you brewed this yet

Pitching heavy and healthy yeast means just pitching a slightly more than adequate quantity of healthy yeast...that's all. Same strain 05 as 001 except 05 is dry yeast, and if your looking to save time and effort, dry yeast is a good route. Dry yeast is less oxygen dependent fwiw.


Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/

Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/

 

[paperairplane]

You're spending the time and money to brew an all grain batch of beer. Take the time to let the process work and get a quality end product.

If it was me, I would primary 2 weeks, dry hop in primary for a week, cold crash for a day, then bottle. At that point, it will either carb in a week or it won't.