Join our local club the Grand River Area Brewers (aka GRAB).
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/groups/grab-grand-river-area-brewers/
We happen to be having a meeting tonight.
PS If you search through the group posts you'll find a thread about where to find stuff locally.
In the design you reference he uses RTV to solve this problem. I think it would have been better to use a second O-ring (or washer) to form the seal between the element and the electrical box. If you do this, make sure you Ground Bond the box to the keg in some other way (i.e. a ground wire)...
Bump for the pitch at 65 and let rise to mid-high 70's. I pitch at 65 and ferment in a small fridge that I set them temperature control to 80 on. It typically will raise on its own to 77 or 78 at peak krausen. Temp control just makes sure it never goes above 80. Would never ferment in a room...
Break points on shipping are 5lb and 10lb in my experience with pellets. Leaf are much bigger and are more costly.
No 4lb limit on personal use. Get as much as you want.
Paul
Got a 120L barrel off craigslist a few weeks ago. Filled with water and when the staves swelled it became clear that two were severely cracked and causing a couple of significant leaks in the middle of the barrel. I'm no cooper, but have a lot of woodworking skills and tools. Barrel is french...
I am hoping to find a fitting to adapt the standard tap connector on a 50L Euro keg to those used on an electric water heater element. Any ides what size the threads are or where to find such a fitting?
Thanks,
Paul