Recent content by jeffmeh

I'm in.

At 220v, a 4500w element will draw over 20a. If you are limited to a 16a circuit, you could use a 3500w element and just about max it out, with no headroom. If you wanted to use multiple elements, you would need multiple circuits. Edit: this assumes the element is really at 220v element, as...

So the 3 in 1 is exempt from the laws of chemistry then? :)

Only if the spa panel breaker is compatible with the main panel, as there are different styles. Perfectly reasonable to do. Reasons not to include: if you want a portable GFCI, if you do not want to change the permanent wiring, or if you would prefer the GFCI to be closer than your main panel...

2, with an appropriately rated switch, or 3 with an appropriately rated contactor. For 110v, obviously single pole. If 220v (US) with two hot lines, both hot lines should go through the double pole switch or contactor. Never 1, because the SSR can fail on (closed) regardless of the control...

A temp controller is not a good solution for a boil kettle, because if you set it at the boil temp it will cycle boiling/not boiling, below set point will not boil, and above set point will boil too vigorously. That auber unit linked above will work well, as will a PID with manual mode (and...

Even easier: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=560

It does not really matter. For a DIY panel you would want to be consistent. Convention is usually black for Hot1 and red for Hot2, as far as I know.

RTD probe is superior to a K type probe, but both will work. Also, http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=560 is likely the best option out there for both mash and boil control at this point.

This might help. http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-setup

You need a NEMA 14-30p. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/331496822311?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

I have done a 6 gal BIAB batch of a very big RIS in a 15 gal kettle. Mash went right up to the top of the kettle. Worked great.

I have had good luck with this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008A852ZW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 I tend to also use it as a slow cooker (even though I have two others), because its "browning mode" allows me to do everything in one pot. Takes a minute or two to brown per side.

Per http://brausupply.com/products/unibrau-controller-240v , there is "A 30 amp contactor which disconnects the power completely when the element is powered off. We have seen a lot of controllers on the market using just solid state relays to switch the power and we feel that this doesn't...

No loop path could also be described as making sure none of the neutrals intended for your fuse/breaker protected 14awg circuit are connected to the 10awg circuit, yes?