Recent content by frettfreak

I dont understand... why does the title say 50% and the link is for 20%? I know it says "up to" but how do i get UP TO 50%?

Wow. Did not expect this much discussion on the topic but it has been a great lesson for sure! You guys are awesome!! Really appreciate all the input. I think then, just for fun, I will do as AJ suggested and measure At mash temps, and a few on the way down to a room temp reading just to see...

You guys followed the recipe from the brewery with regards to the peppers? $ guajillo, 2 ancho, and 1/2 hab in the whirl?? I am so nervous about putting that many peppers in the whirl! lol But if you guys say its not that spicy, i will give it a go! I LOVE CC Mexican Chocolate Stout, its not...

Did you ever end up brewing this? Double shot is ridiculously amazing and would love to brew something similar. How did this turn out?

3 - 10 days would do it. Sample at day 5 and see how you like it. Just keep in mind that 5% is pretty low for a barrel aged beer. You might not have to malt backbone to stand up to it so go light. Also the vanilla will fade with time depending on how long you age it so you might want to...

this is my EXACT schedule and I love it. 1318 is SO FREAKY FAST! These beers are hazy as a result of the process (and malt bill), not yeast in suspension. I cold crash all mine and they stay hazy. Had one that wasnt my fave, so it sat in the keezer and is still cloudy 4 months after being...

So what I have been doing is correct. Making sure my temp adjusted readings are within the "ideal" range? So what would be your advice based on your experience? Continue to measure at room temp and aim for a higher pH in the "ideal" range? 5.4-5.5 at room temp?? Sorry, just not quite sure...

Until recently I thought I had a pretty good handle on my mash pH and chemistry but I just read something that made me question myself. In the May / June 2017 issue if Zymurgy, there is an article about mash pH. There wasn't anything new to me until I read this: "Once the sample has cooled...

LOVE the idea, have wanted something like this for a bit... but I have an 8 tap system. that gets PRICEY real fast. Really like your design and your whole system does look really nice though.

I only used to secondary for aging and if i wanted a cleaner sample of harvested yeast. However, i now take my yeast from an over sized starter and rarely do a secondary anymore. similar to you, only for certain things. :mug: I was going to mention this but figured it might be a little...

With this style, IMO, i dont think a secondary is necessary. I add a good amount of hops once my fermentation starts to slow (still krausen, just after its not at peak activity), and remove them 2 to 3 days later. I dont add anything else til about day 8 or 9. I add ALL the hops in a hop...

Lots of good advice. I always use some low attenuating english yeast, and add 1# of lactose. should end up somewhere around 1.008. Also, even if you didnt add sugar for bottling, the bottle bomb fear is real. You need to pasturize the bottles if you plan to store them for long periods before...

that "ultimate kit" has a pretty big o2 tank. IMO, you can get smaller ones from home depot that will work for quite a few batches for $11... then just buy the regulator and either a diffusion stone or wand (both pretty cheap). You would have the "ultimate" setup for less than $100 easily...

Lots of great advice in here. Only a couple of thoughts here. 1. this is NOT from oxidation. You basically secondaried your beer. Not the issue. 2. Get some temp control ASAP OR, brew beers with yeast that function in that range. Saison / farmhouse, sours, etc. 3. Is it sour or cidery...

The saison wont be any diffferent other than the yeast. Thats what makes it a saison / farmhouse. As long as you are not talking about using any brett you should be good (some saisons do use brett, not sure about tank 7) either way. There will be less hops and an easier brew day (only a little...