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Old 01-30-2013, 05:48 PM   #11
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Could you provide a little more specific info on the pils malt? I'm in Austin and use AHS and the Belgian Pils they have is listed as fully modified, but they've got a Briess pils that is listed as undermodified. Which would you go with? There's also a Pils from Rahr and a German pils.

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Old 01-30-2013, 06:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerklein2
Could you provide a little more specific info on the pils malt? I'm in Austin and use AHS and the Belgian Pils they have is listed as fully modified, but they've got a Briess pils that is listed as undermodified. Which would you go with? There's also a Pils from Rahr and a German pils.
Since I don't do a step mash and don't have head retention issues I use a fully modified pilsner malt. Usually whichever Belgian Pils the lhbs has.
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Old 02-24-2013, 03:00 PM   #13
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Has anyone tried to put this in extract form. Had it at a local pub and it was great. Would really like to make this.

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Old 02-24-2013, 04:45 PM   #14
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I don't normally convert recipes to extract, so hopefully someone else can chime in with something more precise.

Switching base malts to this should get you close, and switch from mashing the C20 to steeping it.

11.7 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 1 7.4 %
6 lbs 7.0 oz Pilsner Liquid Extract (3.5 SRM) Extract 2 64.9 %
2 lbs 12.1 oz Marris Ottor Liquid Extract (5 SRM) Extract 3 27.8

If you wanted to really simplify it, here's the All Grain to Extract conversion recommended by Beersmith, personally I don't think it would be the same beer without the MO.

Quote:

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
9 lbs 15.7 oz Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 1 100.0 %
0.60 oz Simcoe [12.20 %] - Boil 90.0 min Hop 2 24.9 IBUs
0.60 oz Simcoe [12.20 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 3 17.9 IBUs
1.00 Items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 4 -
1.15 oz Simcoe [12.20 %] - Boil 0.0 min Hop 5 0.0 IBUs
1.0 pkg California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) [35. Yeast 6 -
2.00 oz Simcoe [12.20 %] - Dry Hop 10.0 Days Hop 7 0.0 IBUs
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:06 AM   #15
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Jukas, I definitely want to try this recipe. Being on the east coast I don't have access to many RR ales. My son had some R2H56 last year while in CA and loved it. Question, when you dry hop, do you transfer from primary to secondary fermentor? Thanks...

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Old 02-25-2013, 02:20 AM   #16
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I almost never secondary anymore. I dry hop this, and most of my hoppy beers in the keg with a nylon hop bag. The hop bag stays in there from the time I seal up the keg after racking, until the keg kicks, though I rarely have a keg of this last longer than a month.

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Old 02-25-2013, 10:05 PM   #17
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Thank you for taking the time. I am looking forward to finally making this beer. I bought the ingredients yesterday and should be able to brew it by the weekend. I hope you don't mind I took liberty and added some dextrine. I will also be doing my fist kegging with this beer and that chart will come in very handy. I have always used 3/4 cups of sugar give or atake a couple Tablespoons depending on style. I plan on priming this with sugar and then using the CO2 for dispensing. I don't see any reason to force carb other than speed, and I am patient, plus I like the naturally carbed mouthfeel. What are you thoughts on this and do you have any recommendations?

Thanks again!

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Old 02-26-2013, 12:50 AM   #18
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I personally wouldn't add any maltodextrin as it's mashed high enough to retain enough body to match the commercial version, but YMMV.

I currently carb in the keg with co2 by setting it to serving pressure (12psi for my system) and leaving it alone on the gas for 2 weeks. I've personally never noticed any mouthfeel difference in the same beer carbed to equal volumes 'bottle conditioned' vs 'keg force carbed' but I've only tried it once with a large batch of an IPA. I do notice a significant difference in high pressure force carbing (30psi for 24hrs then vent & reset to serving pressure) if I try and drink it immediately. I've wondered if it was larger bubbles due to the beer not being fully carbonated and not all of the co2 being in solution, but I never bothered to test it further. Now I just keg, put it on gas and purge a few times then leave it alone for two weeks.

The next time I brew my R2H56 clone I'll do so in my conical with a spunding valve so I'll have the beer fully (or almost fully) carbed by the time I rack to the keg. It'll be interesting to see which parts of my process require adjustment and how the beer tastes when it's greener.

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Old 02-28-2013, 05:40 PM   #19
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I brewed up a batch yesterday and everything went great. The only hiccup was that I had too much volume. I scaled it up to 12 gallons and ended at 13. I figured I had lost about 4 points to that extra gallon and added a lb of DME towards the end of the boil with out testing the wort first. Either my math was way wrong (and someone should correct me so I learn from my mistakes) or my efficency was excellent because my OG was 1.064.

So my clone isn't really much of a clone anymore but I am wondering if I should add more Simcoe to the Dry hop to make up for the extra gravity points and how much. Any reccomendations?

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Old 02-28-2013, 07:17 PM   #20
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Hrnm. If you really hit 1.064OG you're going to be pushing 6.9 - 7.2% depending on how well you attenuate which puts you more in the IPA range but only slightly hoppy. You can increase dry hopping a bit for more aroma and some flavor, but your bittering isn't going to change at this point. That's going to put this as a slightly hoppy beer. I dry hop at the rate of .33 - .5oz per gal (2-3oz for a 6 gal batch) which would push it to a 4.3 - 6.5oz dry hop for a 13gal batch, I'd probably push it to the high side.

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