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**SeanGC** · 08-03-2010, 07:25 PM

Hello everyone.

I've been doing some research and I've decided on a mill and a motor for my DIY motorized milling station.

Mill: http://www.crankandstein.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_ id=10&zenid=aa93210f0feb7b3894c496280b077c0b
Motor: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=&qty=1&item=5-1098

However, a friend of mine brought up an interesting idea, and I figured you guys here at homebrewtalk would know.

I was wondering, could I use my motorized barley mill to mill other grains? (oats/corn included) I figured since the mill is adjustable, this shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

**IrregularPulse** · 08-03-2010, 07:31 PM

Don't see why not.

**GilaMinumBeer** · 08-03-2010, 07:33 PM

Contact General Mills Consumer Services

Questions? Feedback?
We welcome your comments. For answers to common questions see FAQs
By Email: Please use the email form below.
By Telephone: Please call us at 1-800-248-7310 between (7:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. CT, weekdays)
By Fax: Please send your fax to 1-763-764-8330.
By Letter: You can send us a letter at our mailing address:

General Mills, Inc.
P.O. Box 9452
Minneapolis, MN 55440

Couldn't resist.

As to what you can mill. Sure. Corn might stress the motor tho'. prolly just lock up the rollers.

Displaced MassHole · 08-03-2010, 07:35 PM

I like that motor, but their shipping is almost as much as the motor itself.

**SeanGC** · 08-03-2010, 07:37 PM

Do you have any other suggestions in a motor? I didn't even realize the inflated cost for shipping.

Catt22 · 08-03-2010, 08:07 PM

I'm sure you could mill grains besides malt. The mill gap is adjustable, but you may find that for some larger grains such as corn, that the gap won't be wide enough to permit the kernels to be drawn in. I could be completely wrong on this, but the bottom line is you will already have the mill for brewing and it won't hurt to give other grains a try if you desire. Worst case that I can see is that it may not work, and if so, no big deal. Don't expect the mill to make flour though. It surely won't be able to do that.

**Brewmoor** · 08-03-2010, 08:27 PM

I just got a 1/4hp motor on ebay for about $45 shipped. You will want a faster motor anyway. 117rpm is not that fast. Most people spin their mills around 300-400 rpm.

Here is where I got mine. Ebay Store It spins at 1725rpm. I got a 10 inch wheel for the mill and a 21/4 inch pully for the motor. So It will spin the mill around 350rpm.

**MW66** · 08-03-2010, 08:43 PM

Actually, it's 177 rpm. I think it's fine for my JSP.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brewmoor

I just got a 1/4hp motor on ebay for about $45 shipped. You will want a faster motor anyway. 117rpm is not that fast. Most people spin their mills around 300-400 rpm.

Here is where I got mine. Ebay Store It spins at 1725rpm. I got a 10 inch wheel for the mill and a 21/4 inch pully for the motor. So It will spin the mill around 350rpm.

**Brewmoor** · 08-03-2010, 08:47 PM

That is the mill I have as well. The company recommends 400rpm.

**Brewmoor** · 08-03-2010, 08:51 PM

This was in the email I got from Jack.

Quote:

MOTORIZING A MALTMILL

For reasons of product liability and greedy lawyers, we do
not give recommendations on motorizing our product. It is
shipped with a handcrank and it is presumed that if a user
wishes to motorize it, the user assumes the responsibility
and risk. We expect the user of such a modified mill to call
a doctor and not a lawyer in the event that injury results from
motorizing it.

We can however, provide information that users have found
to work well.

The mill should not be run beyond about 500 RPM as the
efficiency starts dropping at around this speed because malt
is thrown around rather than being fed through the rollers.

The easiest but least desirable method of motorizing is to use
an electric drill if it has sufficient torque to drive the mill at the
above RPM.

If a drill is used, two additional flats should be ground on the shaft
120 degrees apart to provide proper seating for the 3 jaw chuck. The chuck
must be kept tight at all times or the hardened jaws can chew up
the end of the roller shaft. The weight of a heavy drill or leaning on it
can bend the shaft. If something hard gets stuck in the rollers, either the
rollers or the drill can be damaged.

The ideal way to achieve a reasonable speed is to put a 3"
pulley on a 1700 RPM motor and a 12" pulley on the mill.
Connecting the two with a V-belt will provide about 425 RPM.
(3/12 X 1700=425) Just about any size motor will operate
the mill but 1/2 HP is probably ideal.

Large pulleys with 3/8" bores are hard to find so you will need
to purchase reducers to accommodate the 3/8" shaft on the mill.

The feet can be removed from the base and the base screwed
to a larger board with the front of the mill hanging over the edge.
This provides room to mount the motor behind the mill.

..........

The dangers to be aware of are the following:

Belts and pulleys have been known to remove fingers and that
is why machines so equipped have belt and pulley cages.

Dust can be explosive and that is why explosion proof motors
have been invented.

The rollers are designed to crush things. The finger guards that
are installed on the mill are to keep fingers out of the rollers.
DO NOT REMOVE THEM.

Turning a crank might be a pain, but so are crushed fingers.

js