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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Other > Motorized Grain Mills: Time to show them off!
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Old 09-20-2011, 02:54 PM   #91
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Thanks buddy, I will have to check when i get home which motor I have. I know is has 40 in/lbs of torque and the motor is running CCW.

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Old 09-20-2011, 04:12 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by P-J View Post
Which direction are you running the motor when milling CCW or CW?

Reason I'm asking is the Gear Motor 5-1098 is designed to run CCW (viewed from the wiring end). If run CW it has far less torque available.

And another thought. If you got this Gear Motor 5-1074 it has far less torque available in either direction as well as a much lower speed.

P-J
Hmmmm... Given the way my mill works I need a motor that turns the mill clockwise. Did you flip the internal rollers on your mill?

When I used this motor, it did jam a lot. It really is a torque issue, although I ran mine spinning clockwise when looking from the back of the motor and CCW when looking from the front.

That was the only way to do it unless you flip the rollers in your mill or something, no?
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:35 PM   #93
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Can anybody comment on the torque requirement for a modified pasta/clay roller? I have a motor from a large fan that I KNOW is smaller than most of what I've seen in this thread. I'm willing to gear the hell out of it and let it take an hour to mill a brew's worth of grain.

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Old 09-20-2011, 04:38 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by Dgonza9 View Post
Hmmmm... Given the way my mill works I need a motor that turns the mill clockwise. Did you flip the internal rollers on your mill?

When I used this motor, it did jam a lot. It really is a torque issue, although I ran mine spinning clockwise when looking from the back of the motor and CCW when looking from the front.

That was the only way to do it unless you flip the rollers in your mill or something, no?
I know you solved your issue with a stronger motor but, yes, one would need to flip the rollers and then the mill so that the rotation is correct.

The motor torque issue is due to the way the start and run windings are made. Reversing the motor the way that Surplus Center shows is really not correct.

Another way would be to expose the start and run winding connection within the motor and then wire them externally so that the direction could be reversed using full torque. But that is a mission most would not attempt.

Take a look at the Grain Mill Project to see what is involved.

P-J
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:21 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
Which direction are you running the motor when milling CCW or CW?

Reason I'm asking is the Gear Motor 5-1098 is designed to run CCW (viewed from the wiring end). If run CW it has far less torque available.

And another thought. If you got this Gear Motor 5-1074 it has far less torque available in either direction as well as a much lower speed.

P-J
PJ,

I do have the 5-1098 motor and it is in fact running CCW. However, if I run it CW the motor sounds different than it does going CCW. It sounds louder, does this at all mean that maybe your statement is false and it needs to run CW. It just sounds like it's working harder.

Next, I modified the hopper so that there is only a 1/2" x 1" slot in it for the grain to pass through to get to the rolls and that solved the problem for now. I am now just worried that if I get a tig or something other than grain into the rollers that it will jamb, and with a 10#'s in the hopper.
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:24 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dgonza9 View Post
Hmmmm... Given the way my mill works I need a motor that turns the mill clockwise. Did you flip the internal rollers on your mill?

When I used this motor, it did jam a lot. It really is a torque issue, although I ran mine spinning clockwise when looking from the back of the motor and CCW when looking from the front.

That was the only way to do it unless you flip the rollers in your mill or something, no?
The way i got my motor to run CCW was to flip the whole grain mill unit so the rollers spin towards each other instead of away from each other base on my motor.

On the JPS malt mill the rollers are not centered from top to bottom, when you get your JPS malt mill the rollers are closer to the bottom than the top so now when you flip it over, the rollers are closer to the top than the bottom. I think this has something to do with the issues I am having because the rollers are so close to the top of the unit now. I don't know.
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:28 PM   #97
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Here is a picture of my mill.

Take a look a the picture, I have a lot of you have the same motor and I have a question.

Have you add any problems with the motor jambing because you have to much grain in the hopper. I do all the time. I wonder if I need to close up the exit portion of the hopper to limit how much grain hits the rollers at once.
I think that your hopper design might be part of the cause of your jamming problem. A narrow, tall hopper puts more weight of grain on the rollers to begin with. A tapered hopper wider and longer would put more of the weight on the hopper itself.

I'm using that motor with a three roller Crankandstein and am using a 5 gal. water jug as a hopper. I have a plate on top of the mill with a 3/8" by 4 1/2" slot directly above the roller gap. Above that is a block of wood bored out to fit the neck of the water jug. The first trials with 14 lbs. of grain had no problems that weren't operator caused. The weight of the grain was spread out over the entire surface of the jug, not just over the rollers.
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Old 09-21-2011, 04:50 PM   #98
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I think that your hopper design might be part of the cause of your jamming problem. A narrow, tall hopper puts more weight of grain on the rollers to begin with. A tapered hopper wider and longer would put more of the weight on the hopper itself.

I'm using that motor with a three roller Crankandstein and am using a 5 gal. water jug as a hopper. I have a plate on top of the mill with a 3/8" by 4 1/2" slot directly above the roller gap. Above that is a block of wood bored out to fit the neck of the water jug. The first trials with 14 lbs. of grain had no problems that weren't operator caused. The weight of the grain was spread out over the entire surface of the jug, not just over the rollers.
Many people have said this works. Another way to solve this Problem is a motor with more torque. I think the 40in/lb motor is undersized for the task. However, it seems some have found ways to make it work. Perhaps if I'd flip my rollers to run motor ccw...
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Old 09-21-2011, 08:26 PM   #99
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fwiw, it takes about ten minutes to convert a Barley Crusher from CW to CCW rotation of the driving roller. Here's a quicky "How To":

Remove the two screws and nuts holding the hopper and remove it. Unbolt the mill it from the base, unscrew and remove the front/back plates, wiggle the end plates apart, take the driving roller out, and flip it end-for-end before reinserting it into the end plates.

Reattach the front/back plates (but leave the screws a bit loose) and place the mill right-side-up with the handle shaft on the same side of the base as before (so the front is now the back, etc). Reattach the base (again, leave the bolts a bit loose), then attach the handle crank. Rotate the crank slowly, looking for any "hitching" that would indicate misaligned bearings, then press down on all four plates so they are flat to the base, and start snugging up the screws for the front/back plates and the two mounting bolts until they're all tight and the crank moves freely. If the crank develops a "hitch", loosen everything up and try again.


Thanks, P-J, for the information on the (very popular) 5-1098 gear motor. I was about to design my grinding station/cabinet so your post was very timely! While many have had no problems running it in reverse (CW) with Barley Crushers, I prefer optimal operation over just being lucky

Cheers!

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Old 09-25-2011, 05:16 AM   #100
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Originally Posted by day_trippr View Post
fwiw, it takes about ten minutes to convert a Barley Crusher from CW to CCW rotation of the driving roller. Here's a quicky "How To":

Remove the two screws and nuts holding the hopper and remove it. Unbolt the mill it from the base, unscrew and remove the front/back plates, wiggle the end plates apart, take the driving roller out, and flip it end-for-end before reinserting it into the end plates.

Reattach the front/back plates (but leave the screws a bit loose) and place the mill right-side-up with the handle shaft on the same side of the base as before (so the front is now the back, etc). Reattach the base (again, leave the bolts a bit loose), then attach the handle crank. Rotate the crank slowly, looking for any "hitching" that would indicate misaligned bearings, then press down on all four plates so they are flat to the base, and start snugging up the screws for the front/back plates and the two mounting bolts until they're all tight and the crank moves freely. If the crank develops a "hitch", loosen everything up and try again.


Thanks, P-J, for the information on the (very popular) 5-1098 gear motor. I was about to design my grinding station/cabinet so your post was very timely! While many have had no problems running it in reverse (CW) with Barley Crushers, I prefer optimal operation over just being lucky

Cheers!
I would've tried this, but I have a 3 roller mill. Plus, honestly, when I put the mill into reverse to clear it, it seemed to jam up just as frequently. Anyway, I'm happy with my new mill and glad you guys are having success with this motor. It sure is a hell of a deal. I paid 4 times that for my 120 in/lb bodine motor. And that was actually a pretty good price.
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