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Old 12-09-2011, 05:23 AM   #11
voltin
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Thanks. It helps a lot. I was trying to figure out how all this worked together. As you can see, I just started a couple threads in anticipation of my own E-BIAB build. Your control panel seems to be the closest to what I'm after. It's very similar to johnodon's, so I'm trying to get it figured out.

I can relate to the grad school getting in the way of a hobby. I managed to get my pilot's license during my junior year of college. During Medical School, I only flew a few times - mainly after exams. In some spare time, I read up on another hobby I hoped to develop (having a pipe organ in my home). I never got back into flying since I got married at the end of med school. With a wife, I couldn't justify the expense of joy-flying on an intern's salary. 25 years later, I was able to start on my pipe organ hobby. Now, it's beer making. Always a money-drain somewhere.

Good luck with the grad school - and your electric brewing build.

Keith
Thanks for the kind words. I know the feeling, between grad school and work, it is tough to find time to work on and play with my toys . Good luck with your build and let me know if I can be of help.
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Old 12-09-2011, 05:52 AM   #12
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Actually you are right, after re-reading the documentation it seems the alarm relays are "'dry' single pole switches" which means the PID does not supply power to the relay. So it seems I made a fortunate mistake by purchasing the 120V buzzer.

The contractors are there to physically disconnect the power from the element, and control panel. They are very similar to light switches, except that the current does not run through the switch, instead the switch complete a circuit through an electromagnetic coil which pulls the contact inside the contactor to complete the higher power circuit. The advantage of this is that contactor can generally handle more amperage than a simple switch (the Auber switches are rated at 10A for example.)
Thanks for the reply. I've seen the contactors in many builds and read a few "reasons why" but it just never clicked. I think I have a pretty good understanding now.
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:03 PM   #13
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This is great, can you show some pictures of inside the control panel. Also, do you recirculate during the mash?

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Old 12-12-2011, 08:51 PM   #14
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This is great, can you show some pictures of inside the control panel. Also, do you recirculate during the mash?
I just finished up the wiring this weekend. I will get some photos of the inside up tonight. I haven't had a chance to brew on this system yet (still need to finish up the wiring and enclosure for the element,) but I do plan to recirculate during the mash.
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My eBIAB Build | Texas Blues and Brews Festival

On Deck: Motor Oil Barleywine, Cider Trials, Vanilla Cream Ale, California Blonde
Primary: Cotton Blossom Traditional Mead, 1744 Porter (Ale-ian Society Club Brew), Old Ale
Secondary: Peach Wine, Cranberry Cider
Kegged: Christmas Ale, YHC English Summer Ale
On Tap: Nothing :(
Bottled: Yup still nothing...
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Old 12-13-2011, 03:01 AM   #15
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As promised here are some more pictures:


Close up of the front panel with all of the controls lit up.


The insides of the control panel. The switches, PID and alarm on the left, the SSR on top, the contractors, terminal strip and outlets on the right.


Attached to the top is the SSR (screwed and thermal pasted to the heatsink). In the top left of the subpanel is a terminal strip, which feeds the hot and neutral lines for the 120V stuff. Below that is the ground bus bar that services all the ground runs. It's hard to tell from the photo, but the paint on the subpanel has been sanded off so the bus bar is in direct contact to it, grounding the subpanel (the only metallic part of the panel.) On the far right is the main power contactor. Just above the 120V and 240V outlets is the element power contactor. Also on the bottom left of the photo against the bottom edge you can see my hack job of securing one of the fuses holders with silicone, because I did not measure properly. (Remember measure twice cut, once....)



Close up of the backside of the front panel. On the top, from left to right the alarm, PID and main power button. Right below the PID is the alarm button. The bottom row is the pump and element buttons.


A bottom view showing the power cord coming from the GFCI spa panel (not shown) which is connected to a dryer outlet and the probe going to the kettle RTD sensor.

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Old 12-19-2011, 09:06 PM   #16
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Thanks for the pictures, this is exactly how I want to setup my control panel. I will be interested on how your first brew day goes.

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Old 12-20-2011, 08:03 PM   #17
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I just wanted to confirm the panel layout. Also, did you update your wiring diagram to reflect any changes you made to the control box?

panel_confirmation.jpg  
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:12 PM   #18
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I just wanted to confirm the panel layout. Also, did you update your wiring diagram to reflect any changes you made to the control box?
That looks correct. I did not make any changes to the wiring during assembly, so the diagram should match the build exactly.
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:49 PM   #19
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I am the first to admit I feel asleep during circuit’s class, but I’m trying to follow your wiring diagram and link it back to your control panel pictures. I notice on one of your picture that you have a wire (white) connecting the Power inlet and the Pump Power outlet. I don’t see that direct connection on the wiring diagram. Am I missing something? Unfortunately being a mechanical engineer is not helping me when it comes to wiring a control panel. I may just be over cautious here, but I want to 100% understand before start ordering and building my panel.

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Old 12-21-2011, 11:28 PM   #20
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Since it is a neutral, and we are only switching the hot legs, we can make that connection. If you look on the wiring diagram, you can trace back the white (on the diagram neutral is yellow) wire back to the inlet. It just branches in a couple of places. While the diagram matches the wiring of the panel, the component locations won't match.

EDIT: I also should mention that if you look closely at the inlet you will see two white wires, a small one (12 or 14 AWG can't remember which) that services all of the switches and lights and a large one that services the pump outlet. I did this to simplify the wiring.

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My eBIAB Build | Texas Blues and Brews Festival

On Deck: Motor Oil Barleywine, Cider Trials, Vanilla Cream Ale, California Blonde
Primary: Cotton Blossom Traditional Mead, 1744 Porter (Ale-ian Society Club Brew), Old Ale
Secondary: Peach Wine, Cranberry Cider
Kegged: Christmas Ale, YHC English Summer Ale
On Tap: Nothing :(
Bottled: Yup still nothing...
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