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**g-love** · 01-14-2013, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoppopotomus

......oops, the first pic was supposed to be this one. I plan on building a hinged panel door on the base of the sink to hide the lower plumbing components, but still allow me to open it up to utilize the drain stopper handle.

How much did that thing cost? I need a setup exactly like that, as I have no drain accessible. My brewery is going in my partially below grade garage.

**Hoppopotomus** · 01-14-2013, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrainSafe

This is going to be one of the best looking builds ever.

Does that pump kick on automatically?

Thanks, I'm pretty please with how it is turning out. Yes, it's simply a sump pump with a float (Zoeller M53) sitting inside of an above grade 5 gallon crock. It's made specifically for laundry basins, bar sinks, etc. where gravity drainage is not possible. It has a check valve to prevent backflow and ejects the contents up an 1 1/2" pvc pipe to the drain system above. I used a mechanical vent (air admittance valve) at the advisement of a plumber, but it doesn't work for this system. I wasn't getting good drainage, so I unscrewed the valve and it started draining immediately. I went back into the instructions for the pump and it states in small print that air admittance valves do not work effectively with this set up. Too bad I already installed it on the vent pipe, so it looks like I'm out $25 and have to vent out the back of my house.

**Hoppopotomus** · 01-14-2013, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by g-love

How much did that thing cost? I need a setup exactly like that, as I have no drain accessible. My brewery is going in my partially below grade garage.

$201 + tax + the pvc piping and couplings. Maybe $230 total.

**g-love** · 01-14-2013, 03:54 PM

Thanks for the info. Also, your build is ridiculous (in a good way). Carry on.

**Carlscan26** · 01-14-2013, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoppopotomus

Thanks, I'm pretty please with how it is turning out. Yes, it's simply a sump pump with a float (Zoeller M53) sitting inside of an above grade 5 gallon crock. It's made specifically for laundry basins, bar sinks, etc. where gravity drainage is not possible. It has a check valve to prevent backflow and ejects the contents up an 1 1/2" pvc pipe to the drain system above. I used a mechanical vent (air admittance valve) at the advisement of a plumber, but it doesn't work for this system. I wasn't getting good drainage, so I unscrewed the valve and it started draining immediately. I went back into the instructions for the pump and it states in small print that air admittance valves do not work effectively with this set up. Too bad I already installed it on the vent pipe, so it looks like I'm out $25 and have to vent out the back of my house.

So given the kind of waste you're going to have in this pipe... Do you really need a vent to the outdoors? The purpose of those things is pressure equalization right? Is there a secondary trap downstream before you connect to the drain line? I don't know code on this at all, just ruminating.

Other idea: could go run it parallel to your exhaust vent and maybe out that side of the house?

**Hoppopotomus** · 01-14-2013, 08:04 PM

Great points. I spoke with a couple of patients of mine today that are in construction biz....one is a builder and one is an HVAC guy. They both brought up the same points as you. Since it's not a sewage pump or going to contain any other noxious waste, it really doesn't need to vented outside. The HVAC guy explained that the vent is for pressure equalization and although it calls for exterior venting, it's really not necessary. I think that the plumber was just trying to offset any potential for foul odors escaping from the vent by telling me to add the mechanical vent. From what I'm reading, there isn't really a vacuum effect created withing the crock to draw the necessary air in using a mechanical valve. Yeah, I may have to run it parallel with the hood exhaust vent pipe or just let it vent in the drop ceiling void above the brewery and monitor for any foul odor in my kitchen above. Thoughs?

**Carlscan26** · 01-15-2013, 01:05 AM

I'd start easy and vent into your drop ceiling area like you suggested. If you're really worried don't go all the way up for a few months. If it is a problem then go to all the trouble to punch through the wall or run it across the house.

**Carlscan26** · 01-15-2013, 01:16 AM

One other thought: the drain where you ran this too - how did you connect into it? Hard plumbed in or an open drop like at a commercial floor sink?

If you connected in a wall...there could be the vent for that drain nearby too right?

**Hoppopotomus** · 01-15-2013, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carlscan26

One other thought: the drain where you ran this too - how did you connect into it? Hard plumbed in or an open drop like at a commercial floor sink?

If you connected in a wall...there could be the vent for that drain nearby too right?

I suppose you're right. My drain goes up the back wall to the floor joists of my main level and ties into the existing drain system above with hard plumbing (pvc Y coupler). I didn't think about looking around for a vent for my existing drain system, but I will now. Thanks for all of the great ideas!

I would much rather tie into the existing vent (if there is one in the vicinity) as opposed to venting outside. The back of my house is starting to look like swiss cheese, as I have my furnace vent/intake, my high eff. hot water heater vent, my high eff. boiler system vent/intake, my direct vent gas fireplace in my FR, my ventilation hood vent, and now possibly this pump vent all going out of the back of my house.

**BadNewsBrewery** · 01-15-2013, 12:32 PM

Would it be possible, feasible, and even mildly worthwhile to try and install a 3/4hp garbage disposal before the pump? Then you could dump all your spent grains into the sink, flip the switch, and everything would go away clean and simple...