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Old 10-29-2010, 11:00 PM   #1
EuBrew
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Default Final Electrical diagram, maybe???????????

I think I've finally completed my wiring dirgram for my BT controlled rig. You can download it here. It was too big to upload.

Couple things that are "missing" are my 120V AC stir motor for my HLT, but it's wired the same as the pumps anyway, and the 12V DC stir motor for my HEX tank, but it's wired the same as the valves.

It's been a long road with a steep learning curve but I think I'm seeing the light at the end of the schematic tunnel at least.

Please comment on ANYTHING you think is wrong, or that you would do differently.

THANKS!!!

Brew On!!

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Last edited by EuBrew; 10-30-2010 at 05:52 PM. Reason: New Link
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Old 10-30-2010, 05:09 PM   #2
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You have a few problems at first glance. Your buzzer will never work. It should go between the buzzer output and +12 VDC. You are grounding the power supply (-) to earth. That will cause you all kinds of problems. Earth ground and your power supply negative should be isolated. You can not connect an LED directly to 220 VAC without blowing it up. I have no idea what you are doing with Relay 1. This is only at first glance. Go back to the drawing board.

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Old 10-30-2010, 05:40 PM   #3
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I updated the link in the OP with the new changes. Thanks again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawdustguy View Post
You have a few problems at first glance. Your buzzer will never work. It should go between the buzzer output and +12 VDC. You are grounding the power supply (-) to earth. That will cause you all kinds of problems. Earth ground and your power supply negative should be isolated. You can not connect an LED directly to 220 VAC without blowing it up. I have no idea what you are doing with Relay 1. This is only at first glance. Go back to the drawing board.

Thanks, got the buzzer fixed, not sure where I saw that or if I just flat drew it wrong.
So that's why the symbol for earth ground looks like an E!
Changed those, see learning as I go, thanks again! How do you isolate the grounds? Earth grounds go to one terminal strip, and the (-) power supply to another?

Relay 1 is for the E-Stop, it's how Ohio-Ed has his panel wired and it works so i'm confident there.

I don't see where I have 220 going to an LED. The switches I have are LED but they are activated by 120V AC that's why I have either L1 or L2 plus neutral wired to them.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll change the PDF!

BREW ON!!!
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Old 10-31-2010, 04:10 PM   #4
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Are the leds rated for 120 vac? Normally leds are rated for much lower voltages. The power supply ground and earth ground should not be connected together.

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Old 10-31-2010, 05:23 PM   #5
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This is the style of selector switch I'm using, it's rated at 120V

I'll be connecting all my earth grounds to a din rail mounted terminal block.

Would something like this work for all my 12V grounds?

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Old 10-31-2010, 05:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawdustguy View Post
Are the leds rated for 120 vac? Normally leds are rated for much lower voltages. The power supply ground and earth ground should not be connected together.
Yes, with resistor for the required voltage.
Depending on the type of illuminated switch most common voltages are available.
Replacement LED's I use.

Quote:
This is the style of selector switch I'm using, it's rated at 120V
Your switch can use any LED or lamp from 12V-120V.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
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Old 10-31-2010, 06:03 PM   #7
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Very Nice diagram EuBrew. Its easy to understand and helpful to me for what I am building.

Which model relay and base are you using ? I would like to get one for my system.

I know it was in a thread a few days ago, but I can't find it now.
Thanks

Bill

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Old 10-31-2010, 06:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuBrew View Post
This is the style of selector switch I'm using, it's rated at 120V

I'll be connecting all my earth grounds to a din rail mounted terminal block.

Would something like this work for all my 12V grounds?

From a rating perspective that terminal strip should be fine.

A question on your valve wiring... (keep in mind I know next to zero about the BT) I thought the BT controlled the -12vdc and the +12vdc was constant to all controlled devices (this may be 100% incorrect)... If that's the case I think the polarity on your valves may be reversed. Also, if my assumption is correct, then you would likely use a terminal strip like in your picture for a shared +12vdc buss, not -12vdc.

Ed
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:14 PM   #9
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Ohio-Ed

There's no polarity requirement for the valves. The 12v+ goes in one side of the relay P/V16 or whichever number you're using for the valve. One wire from your valve goes to the other terminal of the relay and the second wire of the valve goes to ground.

Windsors

You can thank Ohio-Ed for the bulk of the drawing. I stole his drawing for his BCS-460 build and bastardized it for my BrewTroller build.

I think you're referring to relay 1? This is an octagonal ice cube relay like Ed used in his build. I got the same one at automation direct. You'll need the relay and the base

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Old 10-31-2010, 08:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EuBrew View Post
Ohio-Ed

There's no polarity requirement for the valves. The 12v+ goes in one side of the relay P/V16 or whichever number you're using for the valve. One wire from your valve goes to the other terminal of the relay and the second wire of the valve goes to ground.
To turn a valve or a relay on, the BrewTroller brings all of it's outputs to ground.
One wire of your valve goes to the BrewTroller output and the other wire goes to the 12V+ supply buss.
Ohio-Ed is correct you connect one side of the valves to 12V+ supply buss not DC common buss.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB
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