Belgian Strong Fermentation - Page 3

Matt Up North · 04-20-2010, 05:53 PM

Most likely what is happening is that you are adding the yeast without having it built up to the alcohol that the beer is at, 8%+/- and since you aren't adding O2, it isn't able to take off like you want it to. As I said though, move on and make another and do it right. Don't linger too long on this one or you will get annoyed beyond all get up. I just did up a 1.120 beer down to 1.022 using the right amount of yeast to start with and shook the bejesus out of it.

More O2 won't help you if you underpitch your yeast. It will just make your yeast multiply more and then quit working. It is why when breweries make big beers like that they pitch an extraordinary quantity of yeast. I was talking with a friend and he apparently pitches nearly three times more. That means that when making 5 gallons you need to build a gallon starter in the beginning instead of a 1L starter. And that isn't 1 gallon of the bat, it is a 1.5L and then a 1 gallon starter. Or do what a bunch of people do and make a light beer and then use the yeast from that (key word being yeast, not trub, so you will have to rinse it).

Good luck on this beer and the next though. Get on making the next beer, you will be happy you did.

**joety** · 04-20-2010, 05:57 PM

Thanks, Matt, I'm sure you are right and you have a good read on my level of frustration as well. I need to move on. I've spent well over the six hours it takes to brew a new batch of beer on trying to improve this one.

It's kegged now. I'll leave it kegged, carb it up, and serve it to whoever finds it enjoyable. Until I fill up all sixteen kegs again it shouldn't create any issues.

FxdGrMind · 04-20-2010, 06:27 PM

Another thing to think about with Belgians. If you are using Candi suggars or other non Grain malts for fermentable's. You can leave them out of the boil and initial fermentation. Just boil to sanatize (candi suggar doesn't realy need it but should be disolved for best consumption by yeasties) then chill to temp, pitch into fermenter after your initial fermentation begins to settle, the yeasties should rouse back up and contiue the crausen and such untill the point where the ABV is at the yeast's tollerance or there isn't any more fermentables to consume/convert.

With big beers 1080+ you realy should think about this. It's easier on the yeasties (not as much stress) and if you add a little at a time say = to .1 gravity points at a time you can manage full attenuation with the amount of remaining sweetness that you desire.

Like another said, don't let this set back stop you, get right back on that horse and try a different approach to solving your problem, and continue untill you find an approach that works for you and makes beer you like!

Cheers

**joety** · 04-21-2010, 02:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FxdGrMind

Another thing to think about with Belgians. If you are using Candi suggars or other non Grain malts for fermentable's. You can leave them out of the boil and initial fermentation. Just boil to sanatize (candi suggar doesn't realy need it but should be disolved for best consumption by yeasties) then chill to temp, pitch into fermenter after your initial fermentation begins to settle, the yeasties should rouse back up and contiue the crausen and such untill the point where the ABV is at the yeast's tollerance or there isn't any more fermentables to consume/convert.

With big beers 1080+ you realy should think about this. It's easier on the yeasties (not as much stress) and if you add a little at a time say = to .1 gravity points at a time you can manage full attenuation with the amount of remaining sweetness that you desire.

Like another said, don't let this set back stop you, get right back on that horse and try a different approach to solving your problem, and continue untill you find an approach that works for you and makes beer you like!

Cheers

Yeah, I found out about doing that while perusing homebrewtalk right after I pitched the yeast. Oh well, live and learn.