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Yet more evidence that commercial brewers do not mash at 5.2 to 5.6 pH ...

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I don’t think it’s blind faith as much as it’s close enough. By following it the beer “ain’t bad”.
 
My judgement favors actual results over theoretical predictions, and my understanding is that everyone's is as yet incomplete regarding these matters. I make evidence based assumptions and refine them empirically. I don't distrust the evidence before my eyes because it contradicts my expectations, I alter my expectations accordingly.

I hope you took my comment as a compliment.
 
Hmmm is modeling kettle pH adjustment such a debatable issue? I’m a noob here for sure, just started based on this or the other current applicable thread, but noted in the two batches I’ve done it, it was not hard to dose somewhat less than estimated, mix in the acid, then test pH again and figure out pretty exactly how much more acid I needed. This is a little different I think than mash pH because the entire system in the kettle is in solution. Not sure what I’m missing I don’t really see a need for a precise kettle acid addition calculation.
 
Hmmm is modeling kettle pH adjustment such a debatable issue? I’m a noob here for sure, just started based on this or the other current applicable thread, but noted in the two batches I’ve done it, it was not hard to dose somewhat less than estimated, mix in the acid, then test pH again and figure out pretty exactly how much more acid I needed. This is a little different I think than mash pH because the entire system in the kettle is in solution. Not sure what I’m missing I don’t really see a need for a precise kettle acid addition calculation.

It's super easy to dial in an empirical process for dosing acid in the kettle.

Just like anything else though, it's nice to have the calculation incorporated into a modelling solution for tracking and troubleshooting on the fly. When you do that however, you get conversations like this one where people will naturally want to talk about how it would be executed.
 
Total non-argumentative question: for what reasons are people acid dosing in the kettle?
 
Total non-argumentative question: for what reasons are people acid dosing in the kettle?

A few "potential" reasons:
1) So you can mash within a higher pH range in an effort to avoid thin tasting beer.
2) More consistent regulation and control of hop utilization (albeit that it may be reduced).
3) More consistent control of Mailard reaction induced color alteration during the boil.
4) More consistent control of final beer pH for a given recipe and yeast.
5) Per Bamforth, Kunze recommends it as a means to increase wort buffering. I believe this correlates with 4. Bamforth also states that mash pH does not correlate well with final beer pH (whereas presumably wort pH does).
6) Some indicate that Irish Moss and Whirlfloc work best at pH 5.0-5.2.
7) @Robert65 stated that his beer improved markedly across the board only after he started mashing at 5.65 pH
 
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A few "potential" reasons:
1) So you can mash within a higher pH range in an effort to avoid thin tasting beer.
2) More consistent regulation and control of hop utilization (albeit that it may be reduced).
3) More consistent control of Mailard reaction induced color alteration during the boil.
4) More consistent control of final beer pH for a given recipe and yeast.
5) Per Bamforth, Kunze recommends it as a means to increase wort buffering. I believe this correlates with 4. Bamforth also states that mash pH does not correlate well with final beer pH (whereas presumably wort pH does).
6) Some indicate that Irish Moss and Whirlfloc work best at pH 5.0-5.2.
7) @Robert65 stated that his beer improved markedly across the board only after he started mashing at 5.65 pH

Better break formation
Faster fermentations (yeast does not have to drop wort pH as much)
Healthier fermentations (see above)
Less time for nasties to get in.
beer beer stability

Also this is how one of the foundational german beer flavors are created.


To name a few more off the top of my head.
 
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Better break formation
Faster fermentations (yeast does not have to drop wort pH as much)
Healthier fermentations (see above)
Less time for nasties to get in.
beer beer stability

Also this is how one of the foundational german beer flavors are created.

Okay, for the types of pale-lager beers that are being brewed in this context, acidifying is a no brainer. That said, I was more curious of the IPA brewers who do the same, especially to mitigate high DH amounts, when there is increasing contradictory information between wort acidification for lowering DH pH and the expression/retention of hop oils, thiols, and oxygen-reactions via dry hopping. Carry on.
 
In that case you may need another post DH acidification, to lower the high post DH pH. This will help with the sharpening of flavors and a more stable beer.
 
I've come across several peer reviewed documents which reference Kunze as stating that the ideal final "wort pH" range to be achieved is 5.1 to 5.2 pH (presumably as measured post boil and cooling in compliance with the EBC standard 8.17 method at 20 degrees C.), so with this as guidance I now recommend targeting 5.15 pH as the ideal for kettle wort acidification when using 'Kettle pH Made Easy', or any other computational methodology of your choosing.
 
I've come across several peer reviewed documents which reference Kunze as stating that the ideal final "wort pH" range to be achieved is 5.1 to 5.2 pH (presumably as measured post boil and cooling in compliance with the EBC standard 8.17 method at 20 degrees C.), so with this as guidance I now recommend targeting 5.15 pH as the ideal for kettle wort acidification when using 'Kettle pH Made Easy', or any other computational methodology of your choosing.

How have you found your own results align with this recommendation?
 
I've come across several peer reviewed documents which reference Kunze as stating that the ideal final "wort pH" range to be achieved is 5.1 to 5.2 pH (presumably as measured post boil and cooling in compliance with the EBC standard 8.17 method at 20 degrees C.), so with this as guidance I now recommend targeting 5.15 pH as the ideal for kettle wort acidification when using 'Kettle pH Made Easy', or any other computational methodology of your choosing.

I target 5.0-5.1 personally.
 
How have you found your own results align with this recommendation?

All of the Beta testing batches (albeit it only 6 of them total) would have fallen within the 5.1 to 5.2 range for a 5.15 pH setting if that was each testers chosen target. Amazingly better overall precision than for mash pH targeting.
 
Are you adding the acid pre-boil, post boil, roughly mid-boil, or a combination of the three?

I dose 2-3 times depending on beer parameters. Mash to target proper mash pH (if needed), start of boil to target proper starting boil pH, and end of boil (10 minutes) to have proper knockout pH. It's all automated and based on grainbill.
 
I dose 2-3 times depending on beer parameters. Mash to target proper mash pH (if needed), start of boil to target proper starting boil pH, and end of boil (10 minutes) to have proper knockout pH. It's all automated and based on grainbill.

Nice, but I believe the average home brewer would likely rather kettle acidify only once, as a convenience due to the lack of such automation. For that I would shoot for the 5.15 pH target and add it just prior to initiating the boil. It may mute the bitterness a tad (hinder isomerization) and require a smidge more hops, but I'm not (currently at least) aware of any other drawbacks to this single acidification approach. And pellet hops likely isomerize well more quickly than whole/leaf, so their use may render this a moot issue.
 
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I have a brew coming up id like to try some of the ideas in this thread..All measured at room temp

Mash pH 5.4
Pre boil pH 5.1
Post boil pH 5.1

Hows this sound?
 
Depends on the beer. I personally would let the boil ride for at least 30 minutes at pH ~5.4 (wherever it comes in from the lauter, I don't adjust this) to convert SMM to DMS (if necessary) and get good hop utilization, then drop it midway or at the end for successful fining (and maybe less bitterness from late hops.) I also have found that a higher pH gives a better break, but some literature I cited earlier suggests that within the range above 5.0 there not a huge amount of difference there. Should be noted that I brew mostly light lagers, so it makes sense that I find Kunze's guidelines appropriate. If you're brewing a stout or an IPA, different concerns apply I suppose.
 
Depends on the beer. I personally would let the boil ride for at least 30 minutes at pH ~5.4 (wherever it comes in from the lauter, I don't adjust this) to convert SMM to DMS (if necessary) and get good hop utilization, then drop it midway or at the end for successful fining (and maybe less bitterness from late hops.) I also have found that a higher pH gives a better break, but some literature I cited earlier suggests that within the range above 5.0 there not a huge amount of difference there. Should be noted that I brew mostly light lagers, so it makes sense that I find Kunze's guidelines appropriate. If you're brewing a stout or an IPA, different concerns apply I suppose.

I’m brewing a common ale. 90% Golden promise 10% Munich around 25 ibus from mandarina Bavaria and motueka.
 
I’m brewing a common ale. 90% Golden promise 10% Munich around 25 ibus from mandarina Bavaria and motueka.
Well DMS is not an issue then. Sounds like you're looking for softer hop character too, so I can see your plan to lower the pH early being appropriate. I guess you'll let us know your assessment. Enjoy the brew day! I'm doing a Dunkel tomorrow, so I'm looking at it similarly. I expect the dark malts will get me a fairly low initial wort pH anyway.
 
Well DMS is not an issue then. Sounds like you're looking for softer hop character too, so I can see your plan to lower the pH early being appropriate. I guess you'll let us know your assessment. Enjoy the brew day! I'm doing a Dunkel tomorrow, so I'm looking at it similarly. I expect the dark malts will get me a fairly low initial wort pH anyway.

I like the approach of questioning whether a beer may have DMS precursors or not and adjusting ph accordingly.


Would you be worried about a Pilsner 5.2 at pre boil and boiled for 45m?
 
TBH, I'm not really worried about most modern Pilsner malts having significant SMM (DMS precursor) so my inclination would be go for it, and if you detect DMS, alter the plan next time. I'd prioritize minimizing the boiling of a wort I want to have a fresh, delicate flavor.
 
TBH, I'm not really worried about most modern Pilsner malts having significant SMM (DMS precursor) so my inclination would be go for it, and if you detect DMS, alter the plan next time. I'd prioritize minimizing the boiling of a wort I want to have a fresh, delicate flavor.

A few years back, when I was mashing at a lower PH which was right around 5.2, and then I started experimenting with lowering my boil rates, I got DMS once. I know a few others here and on the other site talked about experiencing the same thing.
 
A few years back, when I was mashing at a lower PH which was right around 5.2, and then I started experimenting with lowering my boil rates, I got DMS once. I know a few others here and on the other site talked about experiencing the same thing.


I can get DMS all day long with a soft 60 minute ~3%evap with a 5.2. So for me it's 5.4 entering the boil, 10 minute remaining knockout dose. Room temp values of course.
 
For a hoppy beer without Pilsner malt (or any beer without risk of DMS), dosing at preboil is recommended?
 
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