Yeast question help

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jmcvay131

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So I brewed my first Scottish ale last night, but when you pitch the yeast it says you have you boil water and let cool for ten mins then put yeast inside it. Well I forgot to do this whole step and just pitched it in the wort once I cooled it down to roughly 75F to 80F. Am I'm screwed or will I be ok.
 
dry yeast?

I would think that boiling water then cooling for 10 minutes would still be too hot to hydrate.

I think you're MUCH better off doing it the way you did
 
Ok I hope so that's just what the instructions said to do so I was hoping I didn't screw my self. Shouldn't it rehydrate in the wort though
 
But the yeasts' cell walls are stronger when rehydrated in water of between 90-105F. I do it in 90F water for 30 minutes. Then it has to be cooled down to within 10 degrees of current wort temp. This keeps from shocking the yeast when it goes into the cooler wort.
 
But the yeasts' cell walls are stronger when rehydrated in water of between 90-105F. I do it in 90F water for 30 minutes. Then it has to be cooled down to within 10 degrees of current wort temp. This keeps from shocking the yeast when it goes into the cooler wort.

did not know this. I used dry yeast way back when I first brewed 20 years ago, switched to WL, so I'm not hip to current procedures for the dry

but i feel edumicated now

he should still be good tho
 
Ok also when I was boiling or steaping not sure witch one it is but the grains it said to pull them out right before it comes to a boil. Would i be screwed if I possibly pulled them a tad bit early, only because I was having a tough time telling if the water was boiling or not?
 
Oh yeah,he'll be fine. But properly rehydrated yeast is more robust. It cuts lag time drasticly. I've had worts start visibly fermenting in as little as 3 hours. With a blow off as well,it needed it!
The grains should be steeped in water of around 150-160F for 30 minutes. Don't leave them in till it gets close to boiling or you'll get some astringency from the tannins in the grain hulls.
 

The grains should be steeped in water of around 150-160F for 30 minutes. Don't leave them in till it gets close to boiling or you'll get some astringency from the tannins in the grain hulls.

I think this is what happened in my batch. compounded by ferment temps in the high range & choice of yeast might also have been a factor.

in the end, it still turned out to be a halfway decent beer.
 
Ok ya I put did it for thirty at 155F. My airlock hasn't started yet its been sitting for about 6 hrs now so I hope it's just lagging.
 
Ok also when I was boiling or steaping not sure witch one it is but the grains it said to pull them out right before it comes to a boil. Would i be screwed if I possibly pulled them a tad bit early, only because I was having a tough time telling if the water was boiling or not?

again, this is what happened to me my first batch and I think it was because I didn't use enough water to steep, which I corrected in the 2nd batch

Ok ya I put did it for thirty at 155F. My airlock hasn't started yet its been sitting for about 6 hrs now so I hope it's just lagging.

30 min @ 155° sounds right & 6 hours is too soon to tell.

trust the magical little critters
 
Should be ok. It takes about 12 hours on average for the yeast to get through the reproductive phase & start visibly fermenting. No worries,m8.
And water volume isn't as critical with steeping as with partial mash. But I still wonder about PH changes in steeping's larger water volume. Try steeping with mash water volumes & see if you like the difference.
 

And water volume isn't as critical with steeping as with partial mash.

true, not as critical as far as making beer, but I found it does make it easier to get even temps throughout the grains if there's more room to float around.

with my blonde it was only a difference of a couple quarts for 1¼ lbs of grain
 
With 5lb of grain in a partial mash,I've been using 1.5 gallons of water. That's about 1.25 quarts per pound of grain. might just add another quart of water. Gunna switch from muslin grain bag to paint strainer bag as well so I can stir the mash to raise efficiency.
 
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