YABC-Yet a Brew Controller: BrewManiacEx

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My controller randomly resets in manual and auto mode. What could be causing this? It resets so often that I can't even get PID autotune to complete. Running v0.5.2

Does anyone else experience resets?

Edit: I turned my wireless router off and ran the controller in AP mode. The controller ran solid for 2 hours without resetting.

It's can't be my router that's at fault because I had the same reset issue with a different wireless router too.
 
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My controller randomly resets in manual and auto mode. What could be causing this? It resets so often that I can't even get PID autotune to complete. Running v0.5.2

Does anyone else experience resets?

Edit: I turned my wireless router off and ran the controller in AP mode. The controller ran solid for 2 hours without resetting.

It's can't be my router that's at fault because I had the same reset issue with a different wireless router too.

It's difficult to know what caused the reboot. Mine sometimes does, and that's why I implemented auto resuming in the latest release.
What I've learned so far,
1. If WiFi signal is weak, the controller seems be more unstable.
2. There might be some interference from heating and pump, especially when switching the power.
 
I have auto resume on which does work however it disables sparge heating after it resets/resumes which I read was fixed already.

It seems strange that it ran solid after I turned my router off.
 
This project looks great and I'm also thinking about changing the controller of my Brew Monk (Hopcat, Klarstein,... equivalent).
I have all the parts available even the PCB (Brewcontroller v1.11) but I'm just wondering if someone tried another LCD display?
The LCD 20x4 looks a bit oldfashen and there are a lot of nicer Tft on the marked for a good price.
 
This project looks great and I'm also thinking about changing the controller of my Brew Monk (Hopcat, Klarstein,... equivalent).
I have all the parts available even the PCB (Brewcontroller v1.11) but I'm just wondering if someone tried another LCD display?
The LCD 20x4 looks a bit oldfashen and there are a lot of nicer Tft on the marked for a good price.
Yeah.

I am looking at LVGL with these modules
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004632953455.html
However, I am bad at User Interface design, and I might try it on BrewPiLess first. Don't hold your breath.
 
Hi all, I've registered to join this thread which greatly aroused my curiosity. I've been brewing for a few years and am in need of new gear since I had to give the old one to its due owner. I'm hesitating between a high-end connected EBIAB like braumeister or grainfather, or a cheaper alternative like a brewmonk or clone, and in that case this project is exactly what I think I'd need to pimp it up ! I'm amazed by the quality of what I've seen here and want to thank everyone who spent all this time putting it together, especially pocketmon.

After reading the 12 pages here and the documentation, I still have a question : is the pcf8574 necessary ? Not that it's a big deal but I want to understand. I'm not familiar with the esp8266, but on this diagram I'm counting 9 free pins if you remove it, enough to handle the 4 buttons and the i2c screen with 3 pins to spare. I must miss something, unless it's just for future-proofness and enabling to add more SSR or relay modules if needed.
 
Hi all, I've registered to join this thread which greatly aroused my curiosity. I've been brewing for a few years and am in need of new gear since I had to give the old one to its due owner. I'm hesitating between a high-end connected EBIAB like braumeister or grainfather, or a cheaper alternative like a brewmonk or clone, and in that case this project is exactly what I think I'd need to pimp it up ! I'm amazed by the quality of what I've seen here and want to thank everyone who spent all this time putting it together, especially pocketmon.

After reading the 12 pages here and the documentation, I still have a question : is the pcf8574 necessary ? Not that it's a big deal but I want to understand. I'm not familiar with the esp8266, but on this diagram I'm counting 9 free pins if you remove it, enough to handle the 4 buttons and the i2c screen with 3 pins to spare. I must miss something, unless it's just for future-proofness and enabling to add more SSR or relay modules if needed.

pcf8574 is not necessary. I am using it because I have it, and I am avoiding TX0/RX0(GPIO1/3).

You can choose 4 pins from GPIO0,2,1,3, 15, and use them as buttons. Just be careful not grounding or pulling high GPIO 0 and 2 during booting.

However, I would suggest ESP32. Although I haven't tried ESP32 in a real brew session. The stability of the latest framework seems to catch up ESP8266.
 
However, I would suggest ESP32. Although I haven't tried ESP32 in a real brew session. The stability of the latest framework seems to catch up ESP8266.
Thanks for your answer. I didn't quite understand this part, could you please develop ? Are you suggesting ESP8266 may not be stable with the recent code ?
 
Thanks for your answer. I didn't quite understand this part, could you please develop ? Are you suggesting ESP8266 may not be stable with the recent code ?
ESP32 is sort of newer version of ESP8266. It has more pins and is supposed to be more powerful. You don't need IO expander with ESP32.
However, ESP32 was not as stable as ESP8266 until recent framework upgrade.
I've run an ESP32 BrewPiLess for a while, and I am planning upgrading my BrewManiacEx controller.

You can check pins_esp32.h for the pin assignment.
 
Yes, i acually tested it a while ago, seems to work fine with both softwares...
But there was some small bugs / fixes i have made to the board - and i haven't tried the last revision - because i haven't even ordered the PCB's for it (my board works as fine, just some silkscreen and stuff missing - and a added connector and so on).

So, here you go, the download is here:

If there is anything you don't understand about the board just ask.

If feeding the board straight on with 5v - then jumper the input diode (D4) with a wire (or increase voltage to above 5.7v if possible) and also jumper the reg-bypass with a wire.

If feeding the regulator with ~9v or above, then use both diode and a 5v regulator. But to much voltage may overheat the regulator. I have tested with 12v with no trouble.
Also the IC-chip (IC1) should be PCF8574 (not PCF8574A) if you want to use the board with "default" settings for display and such. The IC3 doesn't matter, since the board scans for that chips adress.

Also, the pads by the Buzzer - these are for choosing 12v(input voltage really) or 5v (if using regulator) for the possibility of powering different buzzer-types.

LCD is piggyback standard 20x4 LCD, but there is also connector added for wiring an offboard LCD.. if offboard lcd is used, then one can skip adding Q5, IC3 and TR1.

Hope you'll like it. And do get back if you build it, so that i know everything work as expected with the PCB-design. :mug:

If I'm using IC1 as PCF8574A, is it possible to make adjustments only in the software (in the code)? If so, what adjustments do I need to make? Could you explain? I could only find PCF8574 in my city in Brazil.
 
If I'm using IC1 as PCF8574A, is it possible to make adjustments only in the software (in the code)? If so, what adjustments do I need to make? Could you explain? I could only find PCF8574 in my city in Brazil.
I had the same issue. Compare the spec sheets for both ICs and see if the address range is the same.
 
Hey guys. This week I made my first brew with BrewManiacEX. Exceptional!!!! A great help for us homebrewers. My question is the following. The BM is specially made for BIAB. I use RIMS (single pan with constant circulation). So, at the end of the mashing, I have to send the wort to another pan to boil. But when you reach the end of the brewing process, the system waits to remove the bag. And I need to activate the pump to transfer the wort. But I can't because there is no option to turn on the pump at that moment. How do I activate the pump? Or is there any configuration to use the BM with RIMS.
 
Hey guys. This week I made my first brew with BrewManiacEX. Exceptional!!!! A great help for us homebrewers. My question is the following. The BM is specially made for BIAB. I use RIMS (single pan with constant circulation). So, at the end of the mashing, I have to send the wort to another pan to boil. But when you reach the end of the brewing process, the system waits to remove the bag. And I need to activate the pump to transfer the wort. But I can't because there is no option to turn on the pump at that moment. How do I activate the pump? Or is there any configuration to use the BM with RIMS.
You want to toggle pump after mashout when prompted malt pipe out, don’t you?

It might be done by adding the functionality, just like what I’ve done for mash-in.

Before it is available, you can add a fake mashout test, setup Iodine test as indefinite, and transfer wort in that test. For example,mashout ant 78c add a 79c rest after. Before mashout, iodine test will be prompted, just continue and then you will be in the faked mashout rest. transfer wort and then skip the rest.
 
You want to toggle pump after mashout when prompted malt pipe out, don’t you?

It might be done by adding the functionality, just like what I’ve done for mash-in.

Before it is available, you can add a fake mashout test, setup Iodine test as indefinite, and transfer wort in that test. For example,mashout ant 78c add a 79c rest after. Before mashout, iodine test will be prompted, just continue and then you will be in the faked mashout rest. transfer wort and then skip the rest.
Great idea!!! Thanks a lot!!!
 
Updated:

I just make the modification. You can now toggle pump during prompt of removing malt. Don't forget to turn OFF "PID when Malt out" option, so that the heating wouldn't be activated.
wow!!!! You are the guy!!! Thanks Vito!!!
 
Hey guys. I installed sparge version 0.5.3 but I can't connect. The password "bdwhahb" does not work. Something changed?
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Solved....
rdwhahb!
 
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Hello,

What kind of configurations are this?

Sensor #1 Reading #1
Sensor #1 Reference #1
Sensor #1 Reading #2
Sensor #1 Reference #2
Sensor #2 Reading #1
Sensor #2 Reference #1
Sensor #2 Reading #2
Sensor #2 Reference #2
 
Hello,

What kind of configurations are this?

Sensor #1 Reading #1
Sensor #1 Reference #1
Sensor #1 Reading #2
Sensor #1 Reference #2
Sensor #2 Reading #1
Sensor #2 Reference #1
Sensor #2 Reading #2
Sensor #2 Reference #2

Two points calibration. Reading is the reading of the sensor, while "reference" is real temperature.
I found that in my system the reading matches real temperature at around 20C and off around 4 degree toward boiling.
Therefore, I add this two-point calibration setting. You can still use single point calibration, difference, though.
 
Two points calibration. Reading is the reading of the sensor, while "reference" is real temperature.
I found that in my system the reading matches real temperature at around 20C and off around 4 degree toward boiling.
Therefore, I add this two-point calibration setting. You can still use single point calibration, difference, though.
So if I don't do two-point calibration, I don't need to worry about these values?
 

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