WTK: Best Way to Maintain Mash Temp?

[ultravista]

I plan on going with either a partial mash of full grain batch of a Dead Guy clone (recipe via Can You Brew It).

CYBI calls for a mash of 152 degrees for 60 minutes with mash-out at 168 degrees.

My kettle is 30 qt and I have a 10 gallon 'water' cooler.

What is the best way to hit and stand at 152 for the mash, then up to 168 for the mash-out?

I assume that I will heat the mash water to 15x degrees, add the grains, bring it up to 152 then transfer it to the water cooler. However, the transfer from kettle to cooler will drop temperature ... I am certain the cooler, as well insulated as it is, will maintain temp, but I will loose heat during the transfer.

To keep it simple, I plan on keeping the grains in a bag.

I am confused.

 

[Clonefarmer]

I usually lose about 15 degrees from strike water to mash. If this is the first mash on your new set up. Make sure to write down how much the temp drops for next time.

 

[PVH]

There are different methods, but the easiest would be to go to a strike water calculator like this http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml and see how much water you need and at what temperature for the amount of grain you are using. Then heat the water to that temp, add to the cooler, add grain, and voila! you should hit your mash temp. If you don't, just add hot or cold water as needed.

 

[Yooper]

There are different methods, but the easiest would be to go to a strike water calculator like this http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml and see how much water you need and at what temperature for the amount of grain you are using. Then heat the water to that temp, add to the cooler, add grain, and voila! you should hit your mash temp. If you don't, just add hot or cold water as needed.

Yes, and I'd suggest preheating the cooler first!

I'd preheat the cooler, then add 166 degree water to it (1.25-1.5 quarts of water per pound of grain). Add the grain. Stir well. You should be right at 152-154. Cover it and leave it.

I never did a mash out with a partial mash, but I guess you could do it. Just add a gallon of near boiling water (using that calculator linked to above for the exact temperature) and then drain. I'd rather do a batch sparge than a mash out, though.

 

[PVH]

Yes, and I'd suggest preheating the cooler first!

Yep, should have mentioned that. Not just for making sure you hit the right temp, either - the inner plastic lining of some of the round water coolers can separate over time, as lots of people have discovered (https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/rubbermaid-vs-gott-cooler-8846/). Not sure it works, but I think the preheating might reduce this. No way for me to know, really, because my 10gal is already warped!

 

[ultravista]

How do you preheat your cooler. Is it as simple as a gallon or two of hot water and covering while bringing the mash water up to temp?

It did not dawn on me to add the water to the cooler then add the grains. I was thinking add the water and grains in the kettle, then transfer. DOH.

Yooper - I have also been considering your Dead Guy all grain batch.

Moving from extract to all grain cannot be too complicated, given the equipment is available.

My only issue is the size of my boil kettle. My "indoor" brew pot is a 7 gallon (30qt) stainless kettle. This is 1 to 2 gallons short for the full volume boil.

From the CYBI episode (and recipe), pre-boil volume is 7.6 gallons. The crew recommends a gentle roiling boil, not vigorous / agressive boil.

Must I boil at full volume? Can I add water post-boil to bring volume and gravity where it should be?

 

[Yooper]

How do you preheat your cooler. Is it as simple as a gallon or two of hot water and covering while bringing the mash water up to temp?

It did not dawn on me to add the water to the cooler then add the grains. I was thinking add the water and grains in the kettle, then transfer. DOH.

Yooper - I have also been considering your Dead Guy all grain batch.

Moving from extract to all grain cannot be too complicated, given the equipment is available.

My only issue is the size of my boil kettle. My "indoor" brew pot is a 7 gallon (30qt) stainless kettle. This is 1 to 2 gallons short for the full volume boil.

From the CYBI episode (and recipe), pre-boil volume is 7.6 gallons. The crew recommends a gentle roiling boil, not vigorous / agressive boil.

Must I boil at full volume? Can I add water post-boil to bring volume and gravity where it should be?

Yes, to preheat the cooler you can dump in a gallon of 180 degree water. Let it sit for a few minutes while you get your grain and stuff ready. Then, dump it out and add your water and grain. Or, what I do is add my strike water at 180 degrees, cover the cooler and wait until the water is at 166 and then add my grain. I know how long it takes, etc, with my system and the amount of water I"m using, so for your first time you may just want to preheat it and dump it in the interest of saving time!

Yes, you can add water post- boil if you're doing a partial boil. I have a 30 quart pot I use on my stove top, and I can boil a tad over 6.25 gallons. I recommend Ferm-Cap! Can your stove bring that much liquid to a boil, though?

 

[ultravista]

Yes, my last extract brew was taken to a full boil. I'm using NG on a decent stove.

If not, I have two nearly converted keggles. Tops are off, outside is polished, and I am ready to drill and install the ball valves and fitttings. I also have 12 inch metal-rimmed tempered glass lids for both.

I plan on using one as a fermenter, the other as a kettle. Just need the time to punch the holes to install the hardware.

While I have your attention. Can you post your process, A through Z for the Dead Guy clone (all grain). If the process is the same for most of your AG brews, any brew will work. If you have already posted, please paste the URL.

I've read DeathBrewers partial-grain thread, all 107 pages, and am curious how Yooper brews ...

 

[Yooper]

Yes, my last extract brew was taken to a full boil. I'm using NG on a decent stove.

If not, I have two nearly converted keggles. Tops are off, outside is polished, and I am ready to drill and install the ball valves and fitttings. I also have 12 inch metal-rimmed tempered glass lids for both.

I plan on using one as a fermenter, the other as a kettle. Just need the time to punch the holes to install the hardware.

While I have your attention. Can you post your process, A through Z for the Dead Guy clone (all grain). If the process is the same for most of your AG brews, any brew will work. If you have already posted, please paste the URL.

I've read DeathBrewers partial-grain thread, all 107 pages, and am curious how Yooper brews ...

My process for all of my single infusion brews is the same.

I use 1.5 quarts of water per pound of grain in the mash. I preheat my (cooler) MLT with the water, usually at 179-180 degrees (my brew room is COLD!) and then when the water drops to my strike temperature (often 168), then I add my crushed grain. I stir well, and check the temperature in several places to ensure I"m at my mash temp. Then I cover it and walk away for an hour. I used to do a batch sparge, just sparging up to my boil volume.

My system has undergone some changes, though, so after the mash I'm doing HERMS and changing up my sparging, so it's not the same as a "regular" way anymore!

I've had an all-electric HERMS for over a year now, and I'm still making some changes with a friend's help. It's a lot different, because of the placement of the elements in the brewpot/HLT so it's not really that easy to explain it and the HERMS allows me to step mash and adjust the temperatures differently.

I don't mean to say, "I'm not telling you!" about my technique! It's just that the recipe is the same, the grain/water ratio is the same, the temperatures are the same, but the steps I do after I mash in are different.

edit- I have the system torn apart right now, as my friend is working on a few things right now. I won't be brewing until Mid-March when I get back from my "winter vacation". I'm spending 6 weeks on the Gulf coast this winter. Anyway, when I get it all put back together, I'll do a brewcast. I've been saying I will for a long time, but that will make it easier to show people my system and get input from other all-electric brewers at the same time!