Working with triclamp/triclover

[BeaverBrewer1]

I would like to step up to some more serious equipment and basically what I want to be able to do is move sanitary liquids through one or more valves, take readings (pH, temp, OD, DO), etc. and feed in more nutrients.

I have no experience working with triclamp/triclover, so I have a very basic question:

1. Are there pipes/tubes that can be clamped (weldless) to create my circuit, or do I have to do some welding?

Second question - where would such pipes/tubes be found?

Thanks a bunch.

 

[brewmonk]

the hose ends don't need welding. focus on whether or not your kettles will.
check the classifieds on here... then google some sanitary fittings info.

 

[BeaverBrewer1]

Great. I wasn't sure if I understood the point of the triclamp fittings if they needed welding. The source of my confusion was that I had assumed that there would be some kind of triclamp-specific machined stainless pipes that would clamp into the fittings.

So then if I can get ss 304 tubes of the right diameter they will clamp into the triclamp fitting and the seal will be ensured by a gasket? I assume the ends of the tubes have to be cut/polished very well to ensure a seal.

Thanks again for your help

 

[jfowler1]

For a true sanitary set-up, you will need at least one welded tri-clamp fitting.

Something like this:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-clamp-tube-fittings/=d66uil

You can always put a threaded tri-clamp adapter through the kettle wall and build something bulkhead-like (which is what I did) but you kind of eliminate the real point of a tri-clamp system, because threads are not sanitary. However, you do have a heat tolerant QD system available to you, which is a really nice thing.

Here is the threaded adapter I used.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-clamp-tube-fittings/=d66yy0

I like having SS tri-clamp fittings on my kettle because like I said, I use them like QD's. I can swap between hoses for transfers (with a tri-clamp x barb fitting) and tri-clamp 90's (to drain wort directly from kettle to carboy). I can also remove the valve very easily after brewing and clean and sanitize the whole thing.

Just be aware that tri-clamps are insanely expensive. I got the 1/2" BV on my kettle through my company, and it was still almost $70. I also bought the barbed adapter wholesale, and I think it was about $25. In addition, for just an adapter, and a valve, you will need a minimum of 2 clamps, and a small supply of gaskets - and that is just for the kettle. Like I said, it adds up quickly.

Joe

EDIT- And yes, there is steel tubing specific for tri-clamp fittings. However, you can use silicone hose with barb x tri-clamp adapters, but again, it will add up quickly. I'll take some pictures of my gear and post them tonight - it might help you understand the system and options if you had a good visual.

 

[Flyingcow]

Generally, if you want a as tri clamp pipe, you would weld a tri clamp fitting to the end of the pipe. You also can use food grade hose and get tri clamp to barb adapters to avoid welding.

The welding will take place when you go to modify your vessels. You'll have to weld on fittings there.

EDIT: fowler beat me to it.

 

[BeaverBrewer1]

Awesome. Thanks for all the comments. The vessel I am planning on working with is the keg for yeast propagation from GW Kent, which already has two welded tc fittings (top and side) so I just need to pipe around through a pump, a sampling T, etc.
I'm hoping to have everything stainless so I can sterilize the works.