Wiring help please, side-by-side fermentation/ kegerator

[user 201787]

Just checking in on my own post.
I had my mother-in-law in town all week and weekend and was not able to tinker much while conversing with family, hanging out with my toddlers, and the fee time I had late at night.
I was finally able to get some fee time during the day yesterday and cut the locations for my fan and ducts. Not fun, but not as messy as the door!
While in contemplation of this build and review of the wire routings for the FF side, I realize that I need to will need to run separate new wires for the sensor to the FF side IF I place the controller in the freezer door. (Due to the usage if existing wires).
My thoughts of the FF controller location are still under way. I just did not want to mess with more foam from cutting a door.
Anyhow, more building updated to come.

 

[cas3439]

Oh Snap! I can't believe I didn't catch that! Sorry. Don't worry, the FF side isn't that hard.

 

[DirtyBurd]

Noobe here,

I think the fridge I'm looking at has the same main control board but I'm terrible at this. GE model: GSS25SGPE

from what I can tell uses PN WR55X10942 control board.

Is this the same as in your build? If it is I can mirror your wiring and save an epic amount of time and a huge head ache.

 

[user 201787]

@DirtyBurd,
It appears Yes is the answer. It does look like your model is included in the series of the manual that @cas3439 located (see post 13 on the 2ns page).

I have stalled out a bit on my build due to family and work obligations. However I feel that the most difficult things are in the rear-view mirror now.

 

[DirtyBurd]

So there are 2 relays in the mix now? Can you post a picture or 2 of where and how you mounted them. It would be helpful to see them wired in on one of the diagrams too as I'm struggling to wrap my head around it.

I just bought my fridge yesterday, almost identical to yours.

I'm super excited and grateful that you and others have pioneered the way for me.

Thanks

 

[user 201787]

Actually there is only 1 relay that has 2 sets of relayed posts. It is a DPDT Relay that has a 15 amp rating. It's not as robust as others have in some other builds. I figure that if this is too small, I can just replace it with a larger one.
I have it located down under the fridge side in the compressor compartment. That is convenient due to the location of the wires that will be getting spliced.

I will post pictures later to assist.

The relay I purchased was a "Omron LY2-AC110/120 General Purpose Relay" on Amazon for under $6 (Upon getting it I noted that the markings on the relay schematic were 10 amp however the unit said 15 amp rating)

I know it took me time to ponder over the sketches. I sat staring at the unit and a print out to really get a grasp of it all. It finally just came to me one day and all was clear. I double checked myself before I make any cuts. My background is not in wiring and I wanted to make sure I didn't FUBAR the project!

 

[user 201787]

Hope these aid in visual.

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[truvr]

@kgmac311 & @cas3439, thanks for all of the time and detail you guys are putting into this thread. I just picked up a working side by side off of Craigslist to start my conversion. I carefully found one with analog controls to make the wiring easy. When I started pulling it apart I found the same control board behind the knobs. D@mn. Mine is a GE but it is the same fridge as yours. So I'm following closely. So far it looks doable.

@cas3439.
I saw the reply on the other thread from blue dog.

But I'm not following the issues with the fans. Can you guys explain what is going on there or link to the thread you mentioned here? Thanks again!

 

[cas3439]

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you guys with questions. I made an updated picture for @DirtyBurd showing the new relay wired into the schematic. It should help @truvr also. The conversation with Bluedog was over the continuous running of the fans when kgmac311 originally wired his fridge up. The conversation is located here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f252/side-side-fridge-conversion-416389/index7.html

kgmac311 decided he wanted to have both fans off until the STC turned the system on. He did this by taking both fan neutrals and running them thru the new DPDT relay. The other side of the relay interrupts the compressor hot wire. The relay coil itself is controlled by the STC contact between connectors 7 & 8.

I put the Fresh Food STC back on the refrigerator side since kgmac311 figured out he would need 2 more wires running to the freezer door to put it over there. That was my mistake for not catching that one, as I was just fixated on the control circuits and not the temp sensor. I ran the power to it thru the old Damper wires that are rewired in the Motherboard Area.

Hopefully this clears things up a bit.

 

[user 201787]

Thank you cas3439 for answering this. I meant to several times and for one reason or another spaced out on actually doing so. I am glad that you are able to convey in a schematic what I did. Hell, sometimes I don't even know what I did

So I rotated some bottles to my fridge for consumption this weekend, and I realized that my bottled beers are becoming limited in quantity. That brought a reality that I need to get this project done! I will need a working fermentation chamber going so I can brew another batch.

These past few days:
I fitted a board to the freezer door and did actually commit to placing both of the STC's in the freezer side. I will run a wire back up thru the door and essentially run that wire back thru the top of the freezer thru a drilled hole that will be under the hunge cover. If I drill at a slight angle I will be into the freezer compartment at a the front corner. My only slight fear is the guestimated location of the door switch wires. However they can be bypassed in another location if needed (I am not all to concerned about a light).

I plan to use the 2 wires remaining at the top of the freezer as covered in post 25, with the addition of new routing/ drilling for 2 new wires up the door, in atop the freezer, thru the freezer compartment, thru the wall and into the fridge section.

I am only doing this because I gutted the wires from the door. I have the ability to run new/ additional wires.

HOWEVER, If I had kept the original wires (Not cut the connector on the door), I would have wired this with a controller located in its respective door.

 

[user 201787]

To fit the wood cover I took a glass shelf from my pile of parts off the fridge, cleaned it up and held it up to the opening.

I drew out the hole locations and the main opening on it.

Then I taped papers together and placed them on the glass and traced using a back light. (If you have tracing paper, that is probably best, but I had papers handy from the manual / schematic).

From there I placed the paper on the wood, and drilled the locations. (I was not all too worried about precision as the wood is forgiving.

To attach I will be installing it all with what I have on hand. 1/4-20 2.5" bolts. (Note that if I were able to easily remove the entire plastic ring from the door, I would not need this long of bolts.

(I don't have pictures on hand for the cut outs / location of the STC's)

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[user 201787]

Wired to the STC'S and panel in place.

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[truvr]

Looking good kgmac311. Thanks again for the replies guys. I'm hoping to get started this weekend.

 

[user 201787]

I was able to get the unit final wired, and.... it runs!
At first I was alarmed because nothing was happening. However I recalled this happening last test and just needed to wait out the delay in the STC's. (Default delay is 3 minutes)

I sprayed in some foam around the tap cutout and filled in other holes. I used cardboard to keep it from expanding on my controllers.

I moved it to it's home slot in the garage and all that remains is to get the shelving installed and put the door handles back on.

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[user 201787]

Oh, ya. I forgot to post a pic and description of the wires I ran for the fridge side temp probe.

I routed it up the door from the controls and out.
I located a good place to drill down thru the top of the freezer into the compartment.
Then I routed it around inside the freezer compartment and thru the center divide. From there I attached the stc supplied probe.

(Splice point at the hinge area incase the door needs to be removed)

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[user 201787]

Update.
I am ecstatic that this thing is working smoothly!

It took a couple of days to tune it in. I needed to get the temperatures to stabilize and then focus on getting the probe temp calibrated.
I took 2 baby food jars and drilled a hole in the lids large enough for the probe to run thru. I then filled each with vodka and applied putty to the lids at the probe wire. (I actually used some silly putty as that was readily available, just don't tell my kid. Besides, he has 2 other containers of that stuff.)
I took a remote temperature sensor that is pretty close to accurate (my outdoor temp sensor for my house.) and set it next to the jar in the side I was testing. I would tweak the temp a little at a time and get it dialled in and move to the other side.
Today it appeared to be spot on to the settings I programmed it to and holding.
Next portion of the project is to re-install some of the shelving and whatnot. I ran a few things thru the dishwasher to get them cleaned up.

I'll post more pictures after I get some of the guts put back in.

I really have to give credit to @cas3439, because I really don't think I could have brought this mutt to life without his help!
Slánte Cas3439

 

[cas3439]

Glad to hear that thing is coming along nicely! The pics look great so keep 'em coming! I am happy to help out a fellow brewer!

 

[badandy519]

Oh, ya. I forgot to post a pic and description of the wires I ran for the fridge side temp probe.

I routed it up the door from the controls and out.
I located a good place to drill down thru the top of the freezer into the compartment.
Then I routed it around inside the freezer compartment and thru the center divide. From there I attached the stc supplied probe.

(Splice point at the hinge area incase the door needs to be removed)

Not ragging on you in the least or anything... every time I get something done on my build, I go "****, i should/could have done x instead of y". But you could have used a molex connector or something for about $.60 and have an easier disconnect than the splice. Just an idea for anyone else attempting something similiar.

 

[DirtyBurd]

@cas3439

It turns out my wiring is a little different. I hadn't noticed until after I had wired everything and made my cuts in the door.

I knew the controls were different but assumed that if wired like @kgmac311 with settings set all the up to 9 it should work the same.

Turned it on and control center had no power. Only then did I think to look at the wiring diagram supplied to discover that the control board taps into the freezer door wires.

My next thought is to use wiring from the ice maker.

What are you thoughts?

Thank you for your help

 

[cas3439]

@DirtyBurd
Just a couple of questions.
1. So what you are saying, there is some sort of control board on the freezer door?
2. Do you plan on leaving it there?
3. How big is it? Maybe snap a pic of it.

Since you already cut the wires from the control board on the back of the fridge, could you remove the FF Tactile Control Board from the freezer and connect it to the main board J4 1-3 connectors. You would have to protect the board so it didn't short out (Maybe put it in something and tape it to the back of the fridge since it looks like its all low voltage) then you would be able to use the freezer wires like you wanted.

 

[DirtyBurd]

I have this fridge : http://www.applianceaid.com/pictools/gefridge2.pdf

I assumed the "tactile" board was was the touch control wires because after I wired everything up it doesn't work any more (doesn't light up). I haven't tested voltage or continuity because I ran out of time last night.

It just doesn't make sense to lose power their after wiring. I'll look at it tonight and take some pics.

Thanks again

 

[user 201787]

@DirtyBurd,
Perhaps a silly question,,, are your connections fully seated? Anything wires left open/ not attached/ spliced?
Pictures are probably needed to guide the answer a little better.
Question for clarification on "control center".
Do you mean the freezer door OEM tactile?
The units OEM temp controllers located in the FF side?
Or your after market temp controller(s)?

I did have what appeared to be an issue twice. STC's are pre programmed to have a 3 minute delay between switching. (Also I had wires swapped once that failed to operate the system correctly)

 

[DirtyBurd]

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My fear is that it runs on low voltage (see wire colors) and that I blew it out by runing 120 to it.

 

[DirtyBurd]

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My fear is that it runs on low voltage (see wire colors) and that I blew it out by running 120 to it.

 

[user 201787]

What all do you have wired? Have you wired in a relay?
I do not understand how you would have sent 120 to this controller. None of these wires were tinkered with on my build. I do not recall if they were 12v or not.
If you can, test the unit by disconnecting the 2 plugs at the control, with the compressor wiring reconnected (eliminate the relay if installed).
This should make the unit run in a failsafe type mode.

It does appear that your model is the same as mine, with a change in control panel.

Perhaps start a new thread with all the details and pictures of your build and give us a link to it.
Your build may require unique and additional assistance.

 

[cas3439]

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My fear is that it runs on low voltage (see wire colors) and that I blew it out by running 120 to it.

I think you are right DirtyBurd, and I do see how it could have happened with the way your original fridge controllers are wired to the same wires that run to the freezer door. I'm sorry you didn't see the schematic earlier. How much is a new controller? I didn't see your exact model number so I couldn't look it up, but they look to be around $50

 

[acegiro]

First off...you guys are awesome!! This was by far the most complete thread on this subject, that I have been able to find. Thank you! I'm getting ready to tackle this same project and I think that I have a pretty good handle on it. I do have one question though. Anyway that you could clarify fan placement for me? Description and pics. Thanks again. Cheers.

 

[cas3439]

You can check out one of my builds here @acegiro It shows the fan placement pretty good for the top and bottom fans.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=316056

 

[acegiro]

Thanks cas3439!! That's perfect! Very nice work!

 

[Coler2002]

Hey sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but the have the very same fridge and I am in the middle of the same conversion. Big thanks to @kgmac311 and @cas3439 for all work they have done.

My question is the damper wire that you used to supply power to the controller and then on to the fans and heater, is only 22 awg. This seems very light to be using for that much power. Same thing with the wires in frezzer door there also 22 awg, I know this side is only running a relay.

My plan was to use the I maker power and ground as there much larger wire, or run a new line up the back and in the water filter hole.

Let me know if i am worrying about nothing.