Wiring Diagram check please

[ngenerator]

Hi friends. I'm moving to eBIAB from propane BIAB and planning on how to run my wiring. I based my skeleton on morbster's version of the incomparable doug293cz's design.
Main difference is scrapping the alarm/switch combo, using a DSPR120, and adding an E-stop, fan/switch, and Volt/Amp meter.

I'm thinking I need to add a fuse and resistors on LINE1 before the E-stop, but other than that, what do you think?

 

[Brumateur]

Looks OK for me. Fuse and resistor for E-Stop are definitely necessary. Though I don't like an idea to relay solely on GFCI for emergency stop. I'd use emergency button with pair of NC/NO contacts and wire NC inline with "Main Power On". In that case even if GFCI fails main contractor will be disengaged by pressing E-Stop button.

What are you going to use fan for?

 

[ngenerator]

What are you going to use fan for?

6" exhaust fan with the duct tapped into the dryer vent to basement brew

Are you saying that between the 1amp fuse and the main power on switch to add a resistor and the E-stop?

Sorry, I also forgot to say thanks!!

 

[Brumateur]

Something like this:

 

[ngenerator]

Ahh, that makes sense, thank you!

 

[Bobby_M]

6" exhaust fan with the duct tapped into the dryer vent to basement brew

Are you saying that between the 1amp fuse and the main power on switch to add a resistor and the E-stop?

Sorry, I also forgot to say thanks!!

I would highly recommend reconsidering on this... You are going to get a ton of condensation inside the dryer vent and depending on how it's all plumbed, a lot of that condensation will probably end up dripping down into the dryer.

 

[ngenerator]

I would highly recommend reconsidering on this...

Hey Bobby, I’m thinking it’ll be fine, the dryer vent goes up to the peak, then down toward the window at 10° or so into a backdraft preventer/switch where the fan joins up. They both continue down toward the window output.

If I notice some ill effects, I’ll figure out another option for steam removal. I just don’t like the idea of using a condenser and using so much water on it

 

[ngenerator]

 

[Bobby_M]

I'd move that fan as close to the exit point as you can. If the backflow preventer stops brew vapor from going into the dryer, good. If it also prevents hot moist dryer air from spitting out into your basement, good also.

RE: water use with a condenser... I'd gladly spend 7-8 gallons of water to not have to listen to that fan motor screaming overhead.

 

[doug293cz]

If you really think you need an E-Stop (the main power switch will perform the same function), then use and NC mushroom head switch wired in series with the main power switch as shown in the red lines by @Brumateur , but leave out the green wires, fuse and resister that short a hot to ground.

The way your current sensing coil for the V/A meter is placed, you will only be measuring the current used by the element, but not the fan or pump. If this is how you want it, then the design is good. If you want to measure the pump and/or fan current as well as the element current, then you need to move the coil closer to the main power contactor (before the branch points for the pump and fan circuit branches.)

Also, I don't see any indicator lights for switch position, or an element firing light (in parallel with the element.) Switch indicator lights allow you to determine the state of the system at a glace, without having to discern the position of each switch. Switch indicators are most easily (and with less panel space) implemented with lighted switches. An element firing lamp allows you to determine if your SSR has failed, or temporarily latched (due to overheating) in the "On" mode. The "firing" LED on your PID won't tell you if the SSR is actually switching (nor will the LED on the SSR, for that matter.)

Finally, I would run the pump and fan from the same branch using a single 10A fuse, unless your fan requires more than a couple of amps.

Brew on

 

[ngenerator]

re: the sensing coil: does it make more sense to move the red meter power cord to the input of the second contactor?

 

[doug293cz]

re: the sensing coil: does it make more sense to move the red meter power cord to the input of the second contactor?

Not really.

Brew on

 

[Brumateur]

re: the sensing coil: does it make more sense to move the red meter power cord to the input of the second contactor?

Why? There is no difference.

 

[ngenerator]

Why? There is no difference.

To measure the total current coming out of the contactor vs just the element

 

[doug293cz]

To measure the total current coming out of the contactor vs just the element

What current gets measured in determined by the placement of the current sensing coil. Only current flowing in the wire that goes thru the coil gets measured. Any current flowing in branches upstream of the coil does not get measured. Placement of the voltage wires just needs to be on the source side of any load.

Brew on

 

[ngenerator]

Thank you all very much, I really appreciate it!