"WILLIAM'S OXYGEN AERATION SYSTEM" Does it help?

[HiGravShawn]

How easy it is to oxygenate with the setup is just one of the benefits of using it. I think people undervalue that aspect until they've had a chance to experience it.

Also, those red O2 bottles only hold 1.4oz of O2. IME, only enough for a few batches IF you brew higher OG batches (above about 1.060)... Get a welding O2 size tank (forget how they're rated) that's about the size of a 10# CO2 tank, and you'll be set for many, many batches. Of course, you'll need a different regulator, and to do some tweaking, but that's just part of the fun. :rockin:

Where would you get one of those and where would you fill it? I've never noticed them in any hardware stores I frequent. I use the Home Depot refillable tank that says like 50% more but only costs about $2 more ($9.89 I think), but between that and little CO2 canisters I use, I feel so wasteful.

 

[Golddiggie]

The O2 tanks, and regulators, can be found at most welding supply places. Same place a lot of people go to get theie CO2 tanks filled up at. When my current O2 tank is empty I'll need to get a new one (most likely) since its pretty far out of date.

 

[Seven]

Does anyone know how long you are supposed to run the 02 into the wort using this wand? I've been hitting it with 02 for 30-seconds because I think I read that somewhere before. It seems others are hitting it with 02 for longer than this. Just curious what others are doing.

 

[JonM]

It comes with instructions that say 25 seconds for 5 gal of an average grav beer.

 

[Desertups]

I highly suggest getting the O2 system. I have it and haven't regretted it. My beers have been better because of that, but also because of using starters. I've been into homebrewing for less than a year but have definitely had much better beers since this. However, IMHO, there are several factors in making better beer.
1. Method of controlling fermentation temperatures - here in AZ I didn't even bother with homebrewing until I had gotten a chest freezer with temperature controller.
2. Starters - yeast starters are a must (again IMHO). After much reading and also from my own work experience (used to work in a microbio lab), this is key to having the best results from the fermentation. 1.040 starter, stir plate, flask with sanitized foam stopper will get you the best starter.
3. Add 30-45 sec of O2 to wort before adding yeast. I've hit my numbers much better since adding O2 to the wort and not shaking. I can also add 5.5 gal to my ported better bottle and not have to try and shake it up to get enough O2 in it. To me that equals more beer to drink later.
4. I've added yeast nutrient as well, but not sure it's made a big difference. In my mind, the happier the yeast the better the beer.

 

[jfr1111]

I highly suggest getting the O2 system. I have it and haven't regretted it. My beers have been better because of that, but also because of using starters. I've been into homebrewing for less than a year but have definitely had much better beers since this. However, IMHO, there are several factors in making better beer.
1. Method of controlling fermentation temperatures - here in AZ I didn't even bother with homebrewing until I had gotten a chest freezer with temperature controller.
2. Starters - yeast starters are a must (again IMHO). After much reading and also from my own work experience (used to work in a microbio lab), this is key to having the best results from the fermentation. 1.040 starter, stir plate, flask with sanitized foam stopper will get you the best starter.
3. Add 30-45 sec of O2 to wort before adding yeast. I've hit my numbers much better since adding O2 to the wort and not shaking. I can also add 5.5 gal to my ported better bottle and not have to try and shake it up to get enough O2 in it. To me that equals more beer to drink later.
4. I've added yeast nutrient as well, but not sure it's made a big difference. In my mind, the happier the yeast the better the beer.

Holy join date batman

 

[Desertups]

Yeah, I did a lot of research/reading before I actually started. Like I said above, I wasn't going to even start brewing until I had a way to control fermentation temperature. It took some time to convince the wife to give me some space in the garage to get the freezer. She's happy now though that I've brewed a smoked porter and stout for her.

 

[terrapinj]

Full open is the way to go. There's only so much O2 in that tank, you want to be using it up! If you get 100 batches out of a little 7oz tank or however big they are, you're not getting much into your wort.

I disagree and have read otherwise - if you open it fully most of the o2 will rise to the surface and go to waste - all you need a slow trickle where you can see the bubbles breaking the surface

 

[Rundownhouse]

I disagree and have read otherwise - if you open it fully most of the o2 will rise to the surface and go to waste - all you need a slow trickle where you can see the bubbles breaking the surface

So how many batches should you be able to get out of one of those 1.4oz tanks? 20? 50? 100? People barely cracking it are also reporting tanks lasting for 20 or more batches. Does that make any sense to you?

As others have said, the O2 isn't "lost" once it gets to the surface. It floods the headspace, and will get taken into the wort as the yeast take up O2 and release byproducts of fermentation.

 

[terrapinj]

So how many batches should you be able to get out of one of those 1.4oz tanks? 20? 50? 100? People barely cracking it are also reporting tanks lasting for 20 or more batches. Does that make any sense to you?

As others have said, the O2 isn't "lost" once it gets to the surface. It floods the headspace, and will get taken into the wort as the yeast take up O2 and release byproducts of fermentation.

there's only so much headspace to occupy though and there is space for it to escape around the opening of the carboy, bung hole (he he he he) in the bucket lid etc.

per williams website

Pictured red oxygen bottle is not included, these disposable 1.4 ounce left hand thread bottles can be purchased at any hardware store in the welding or brazing section. One bottle will aerate 20 to 30 batches

 

[Rundownhouse]

I'm still drinking my last few brews, but when I get brewing again I'll do some side-by-side experiments with batches split between two 6g carboys and a DO meter. It'll be good for us all to have some hard numbers to look at.

 

[BreezyBrew]

I got the Williams Aeration Wand system last week, and tested it out in some water and glass carboy. Has anyone noticed a small ring of rust where the wand meets the stone? I was going to use it in my latest batch, but then got complacent. I wouldn't think you can sterilize rust? Anyone else notice this? I'd post a picture, but i'm out of town. It's really not all that much.

 

[iijakii]

I'm starting to ferment in a sanke, so shaking really just sounds like no bueno. Debating on how to start aerating. Adding another gadget and having to go get O2 fills just really chaps my ass. Might try one of those wine-degasser drill attachments.

 

[Golddiggie]

I'm starting to ferment in a sanke, so shaking really just sounds like no bueno. Debating on how to start aerating. Adding another gadget and having to go get O2 fills just really chaps my ass. Might try one of those wine-degasser drill attachments.

You'll never get beyond 8ppm of O2 in the wort that way... Plus there's a thread from a HBT member that is using an O2 meter to see what the actual concentrations are with different methods... Pure O2 via a stone is the winner to date...

I got the Williams Aeration Wand system last week, and tested it out in some water and glass carboy. Has anyone noticed a small ring of rust where the wand meets the stone? I was going to use it in my latest batch, but then got complacent. I wouldn't think you can sterilize rust? Anyone else notice this? I'd post a picture, but i'm out of town. It's really not all that much.

Here: http://www.wkfinetools.com/tRestore/techniques/rust_CitricAcid/rust_CitricAcid1.asp