When to transfer to secondary?

[FireantBrewing]

I have two 6.5 gallon carboys in a swamp cooler for primary fermentation, these were put in there on the 4th with blow off tubes. I am still having activity and tomorrow is 7 days.

Because of my work schedule we usually brew/transfer/keg/bottle on saturdays. Is it bad to transfer to a secondary if there is still a lot (what defines a lot?) of activity in the primary? Is it best to leave this in the primary until next Saturday? 14 days days total.

This is an IPA, the OG was around 1.062 (if that matters to my question), WLP001 California Ale yeast starters were pitched at ~70F, the water in the swamp cooler is 69F.

Thanks Much!

 

[Facinerous]

My opinion. Leave it in primary longer. Maybe 3 weeks. Of course you can transfer if you want but it would be early.

 

[FireantBrewing]

What will happen to the beer if I transfer it "early"? Will the beer be better if I leave it? If I do transfer it, will the fermentation continue in the secondary?

Sorry, I know this is probably a stupid question. But this is only my third all grain batch with a yeast starter and want it to be the best it can be. The other batches were not this active for this long.

Thanks!

 

[zacster]

If you are still seeing activity it isn't ready. And of course the only way to tell is to take gravity readings on successive days. If you transfer to a secondary now you may stop the fermentation before it is done, it really depends on how much yeast is left in suspension.

If in doubt, leave it longer.

 

[1van]

Disclaimer- I dont really do IPAs. That said, with the exception of spiced or fruit beers, I dont use a secondary anymore. I just do a long primary and have gotten cleaner/clearer beers as a result of letting the yeast clean up after itself longer. And its nicer to not have to do extra sanitization and racking till packaging (in my case kegging) The concept of secondary fermentation is a myth and a secondary vessel is really only needed for bulk aging-clarification or flavor additions. It is possible that an IPA would benefit from being consumed "fresh" but it sounds like you were intending to go to "secondary" vessel anyhow....I vote just leave it and skip secondary all together

 

[zacster]

I've started skipping the secondary since I went to kegging. It has to sit in the keg for a week anyway to carbonate, and then you don't just down a keg in one sitting unless you are having a big party. I'm usually only tasting after the first week or twon. That time serves as secondary time.

OTOH, my latest brew requires 2oz of dry hopping, so I'll put that in a carboy rather than the keg, mostly so I can remove the hops without opening the keg. Now that I'm saying that though I could just use the keg, pull the hop bag from it and then replace the lid without having to transfer again. I'll consider that.

 

[BlueHouseBrewhaus]

I mostly don't do secondary anymore but if you do, you want to be sure the fermentation is done before you transfer since you are racking the brew off the yeast. While some yeast will transfer to secondary, it will not be enough to finish an incomplete fermentation.

 

[MrSnacks]

Don't bother with secondary. It's just extra work.

 

[SeeMont]

I also stopped using the secondary transfer. I will dry hop in the carboy after about 10 days to 2 weeks. Because I keg, I will sometimes transfer onto a second dry hop and then re - transfer to another perged keg with a CO2 push using an out to out hose. Works great, no oxidation,

 

[jahdub]

I mostly brew IPAs and they've tasted much fresher since I stopped using secondary, so +1 to no secondary.

 

[TheZymurgist]

One thing that hasn't been touched on yet is that you're fine leaving it on the yeast cake for at least a few months. No need to rush to secondary. Also, in this case, the only reason I can see transferring is if you're wanting to harvest the yeast. Otherwise, there's no point. Since this is an IPA, I'm assuming you have a dry hop addition. Just throw those in once fermentation is complete, and the only way to know fermentation is complete is by taking gravity readings over multiple days. If gravity is stable, fermentation is done.

If you transfer off the yeast too early, you run the risk of stalling the fermentation.

 

[zacster]

That another good suggestion. I cold crashed my IPA to clear it and maybe I'll try cold dry hopping too in the primary, with the yeast on the bottom.. The only question is whether I should use a hop bag or just drop them in.



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[TheZymurgist]

That another good suggestion. I cold crashed my IPA to clear it and maybe I'll try cold dry hopping too in the primary, with the yeast on the bottom.. The only question is whether I should use a hop bag or just drop them in.



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If you're going to do it cold, you may need to dry hop for a longer period of time. I don't have any experience with it, but I believe I've read that you will have decreased extraction at colder temperatures.

 

[FireantBrewing]

Wow, a lot to think about!! Thank you all!

One of the main reasons that I transfer to secondaries is to free up my 6.5 gallon carboys so I can brew more (more beer sounds like a good reason!). Also as you all know there are very strong opinions on both sides of this argument, and as a new home brewer all of these can be daunting!

I will probably let this one in the primaries and if all turns out well try to get the funds together for a couple more 6.5 gallon carboys.

Thanks!

 

[RM-MN]

Wow, a lot to think about!! Thank you all!

One of the main reasons that I transfer to secondaries is to free up my 6.5 gallon carboys so I can brew more (more beer sounds like a good reason!). Also as you all know there are very strong opinions on both sides of this argument, and as a new home brewer all of these can be daunting!

I will probably let this one in the primaries and if all turns out well try to get the funds together for a couple more 6.5 gallon carboys.

Thanks!

Fermenter bucket are only about $15 with lid and airlock. With a little care they will last for years. They have a handle to carry with, don't shatter when dropped, and have a large opening to add dry hops or to clean. One other plus, if you aren't using them, they stack nicely so they take up less space.

 

[OhCrap]

Fermenter bucket are only about $15 with lid and airlock. With a little care they will last for years. They have a handle to carry with, don't shatter when dropped, and have a large opening to add dry hops or to clean. One other plus, if you aren't using them, they stack nicely so they take up less space.

I used to stack them until I noticed small scratches on the inside of one of them....now it's used as a sanitation bucket, everything in it on brewing and bottling day. That being said they are really easy to work with and can free up my fermenters for more beer

 

[1van]

Yeah, I am assuming RM-MN meant stacking them on top of each other with the lids on. Nesting the buckets together is a recipe for scratches then infections. After use I rinse, then set upside down in the sun (it is hot hear) and that makes all of the krausen ring dust off. then an overnight hot oxy soak and they are clean. Sometimes a soft sponge is needed, but lightly. then I rinse and dry (sun again) and put the lids on and stack them upside down....have lasted a really long time this way.

 

[zacster]

If you're going to do it cold, you may need to dry hop for a longer period of time. I don't have any experience with it, but I believe I've read that you will have decreased extraction at colder temperatures.

i put the hops in, but I'm going to let it warm back up. I think there is still a bit of fermentation going on so I want to encourage it.