When to check gravity during fermentation

[olotti]

This pale ale is in my fermenting bucket, recipe Calls for 10 days in fermenter with a target FG of 1.011. When should I start checking the gravity so I can keep up with where my fermentation is at. I also overshot the OG a little and only ended up with 4.5 gal so my FG I think may end up a little higher, hydrometer reading off the wort was 1.055 instead of 1.051.

 

[Yooper]

This pale ale is in my fermenting bucket, recipe Calls for 10 days in fermenter with a target FG of 1.011. When should I start checking the gravity so I can keep up with where my fermentation is at. I also overshot the OG a little and only ended up with 4.5 gal so my FG I think may end up a little higher, hydrometer reading off the wort was 1.055 instead of 1.011.

In 10 days or so, you can check it. Then, in about two more days, check it again. If it's the same, then it is at FG. It can be packaged at that time if it's clear or at least fairly clear. If it's not yet clear, then wait until it is, then package.

 

[surffisher2a]

I have pretty much stopped checking the gravity during my fermentation unless I suspect there my be a problem, which I can usually tell by just looking at the beer and see how its acting. The reason for this is that I leave my beers in the primary for a couple of weeks before I even think of kegging/bottling and knowing the gravity during that time is pretty useless to me. Of course I take a reading while I am bottling just to make sure it fermented the way I excepted and I also might peek at it just once near the end of primary fermentation if I am doing a big beer that I want a low FG on. I can tell when it near the end by looking at the way the yeast swirl around, krausen falls, layers just start to separate and the bubbles in my blowoff container.

 

[BradTheGeek]

The common wisdom is to test three times in three days. If the reading is flat, you are done. I don't like to risk infection, so I normally do one test, then another 3 days later, cutting one exposure of my beer to possible infections.

Make sure everything is sanitized. I also have some dilute starsan in a sprayer that I spray around areas that may touch air - like carboy stoppers, although it can be quite the trick to get a wet carboy stopper to stay back in!

Like mentioned above, if you let it sit longer, or rack to a secondary for a week or two, there is probably not a super concern for bottle bombs, just curiosity so you can calculate ABV/attenuation, so then you only need to test once.

 

[IslandLizard]

Let it sit for 2-3 weeks before starting to test the gravity. Don't rack to a secondary, regardless of (kit) instructions, just leave it in the fermentor on the yeast cake.

When taking the samples make sure to sanitize (Starsan) everything that will touch or may potentially touch or drip into your beer, including stoppers, lid, rims etc.

 

[BigFloyd]

If you had a good pitch of yeast (like a rehydrated packet of dry or a starter into a mid-gravity ale) and ferment within the optimal range for the yeast being used, 10-14 days is a good point for the first check. Confirm it a few days later. If it's the same, you're good to go on that pale ale.

 

[olotti]

If you had a good pitch of yeast (like a rehydrated packet of dry or a starter into a mid-gravity ale) and ferment within the optimal range for the yeast being used, 10-14 days is a good point for the first check. Confirm it a few days later. If it's the same, you're good to go on that pale ale.

I think this is what I'll do, the recipe calls for only 10 days of fermentation and it should be ready followed by a cold crash for a couple days. I already noticed that the blowoff tube was vigorously bubbling for 72 hours and then has since stopped for the last two days. I rehydrated a pack of Nottingham on 5 Gal for this batch.

 

[rodwha]

I never checked my gravity along the way. I gave it the full term of 3 weeks (now usually 4) and checked it then. I figure it gives the yeast PLENTY of time to ferment, and then to clean it up a bit. I'm somewhat patient and so just allowing it to sit and do it's thing isn't a big deal anymore.

If 2 weeks it is done 3 weeks it'll likely be better. I'd give it the extra time unless you really just need it to ready soon.

 

[IslandLizard]

I think this is what I'll do, the recipe calls for only 10 days of fermentation and it should be ready followed by a cold crash for a couple days. I already noticed that the blowoff tube was vigorously bubbling for 72 hours and then has since stopped for the last two days. I rehydrated a pack of Nottingham on 5 Gal for this batch.

Rehydrating the yeast definitely helps with a good fermentation.

However, yeast takes it's own time to finish, depending on many variables such as wort gravity, alcohol present, temperature and variations, fermentability, etc. She is not aware of your schedule or the recipe's 10 days. I've had beer finish in 3 days flat and some that took over 6 months, not counting aging or sours.

Even when visible fermentation has stopped, the yeast is still conditioning what it just created, processing byproducts from earlier stages, making for a cleaner and better tasting beer in the long run. Hence, the 2-3 weeks without touching, minimum.

 

[BigFloyd]

I think this is what I'll do, the recipe calls for only 10 days of fermentation and it should be ready followed by a cold crash for a couple days. I already noticed that the blowoff tube was vigorously bubbling for 72 hours and then has since stopped for the last two days. I rehydrated a pack of Nottingham on 5 Gal for this batch.

Hopefully, you were able to control your temperature to keep the beer under 68*F. Nottingham is an excellent ale yeast for cooler temps (I've used it as low as 55*F), but it gets some pretty funky esters above 68.

If you're going to cold crash, give it 5-7 days for thorough clearing.

Please keep in mind that written kit recipe instructions range from okay (but not great) to idiotic.

 

[olotti]

Hopefully, you were able to control your temperature to keep the beer under 68*F. Nottingham is an excellent ale yeast for cooler temps (I've used it as low as 55*F), but it gets some pretty funky esters above 68.

If you're going to cold crash, give it 5-7 days for thorough clearing.

Please keep in mind that written kit recipe instructions range from okay (but not great) to idiotic.

My temps in my basement have ranged from 61-63deg F consistently so I should be good there.

If I leave it in the primary for 2 weeks is it necessary to cold crash or can I just leave it in the fermenting bucket for a 3rd week then call it good or is it better to cold crash for this style to drop the yeast. I'm using the very popular BrewHaus pale ale recipe from this site.

 

[surffisher2a]

My temps in my basement have ranged from 61-63deg F consistently so I should be good there.

If I leave it in the primary for 2 weeks is it necessary to cold crash or can I just leave it in the fermenting bucket for a 3rd week then call it good or is it better to cold crash for this style to drop the yeast. I'm using the very popular BrewHaus pale ale recipe from this site.

I would let it sit longer than 2 weeks. And if you have the means to cold crash a day or so before bottling you should do so. Just make sure you wait until you have given enough time for the yeast to cleanup after their dinner.