What you pay for a pre-owned cooler mash tun ?

[SteveH aka shetc]

Hi All,

A co-worker asked me if I would be interested in buying his DIY cooler mash tun system as he has just bought a newer system. The photos below show that he spent about $120 on the parts. What would be a fair offer for this used system?

Thanks,
Steve

 

[theck]

I'm a cheapskate so $50 would be what I would charge or buy for... Coolers on sale can be super cheap.

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[calvey]

Mash tuns are like cars, they depreciate when you drive them off the lot. Ok, not really. No more than fifty bucks.

 

[Teromous]

Mash tuns are like cars, they depreciate when you drive them off the lot. Ok, not really. No more than fifty bucks.

Under normal use a cooler is normally fine to buy. When it is used for homebrewing the hot water can cause the sides to warp and expand, being loaded down with grain can loosen or break handles, they get stained on the inside, and can get scratched up from metal mash paddles and scouring pads. Aside from the actual hardware, I'd much rather buy a used cooler from average-joe and put it through its paces myself. Obviously if you can see that it's in good condition then it's good to go, but you get the idea...

I'd say $50 too.

 

[hophop]

You can build one for $75.00 and it will brand new.


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[aryoung1980]

Like the others have said, $50 would be my offer. I built mine for around $60.


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[novahokie09]

He used all stainless steel fittings and valves. There's no way you can build this for $75 with all stainless fittings.

I'd say anywhere between $75-$90 bucks would be a fair offer for this mash tun for both parties.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I'm a little more generous, if in excellent condition, it is what you want, you are not all that handy, or you have a touch more money than time, 60 - 70 dollars.

 

[theck]

Like the others have said, $50 would be my offer. I built mine for around $60.


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Ya... If they don't bite on it just go and build your own. Simple enough really as stated if your not a handy person might be worth more to you to have it already done.

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[PackerfaninSanDiego]

just because someone spent "umpteeump" amount of money on anything, does not mean that's what it's worth. the going rate is what we say it is. We say $50-$69, depending on it's interior and exterior condition. And novahokie said, "He used all stainless steel fittings and valves. There's no way you can build this for $75 with all stainless fittings." We'll I'm glad your friend used stainless and did not skimp using something less. Do others use steel or galvanized? I hope not. Brass is a good substitution. That being said, good luck,,,,,

 

[Hello]

I actually paid $100 shipped for a 10 gallon MT with a nice false bottom. I'm not sad about the price at all and it works.

 

[ianw58]

Look very carefully at the spigot hole. This is the difference between one worth pennies send one worth having. Has it been drilled out properly or will it always be a problem.

Personally, I would not take a chance...

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Anyone else confused why his list has 3 nipples and a coupler?

That's where a majority of his cost is honestly, those SS nipples and crap arent cheap and add up quick....

 

[theck]

Anyone else confused why his list has 3 nipples and a coupler?

That's where a majority of his cost is honestly, those SS nipples and crap arent cheap and add up quick....

Likes nipples?

 

[bajaedition]

50 for the system
15 for the upgrade to SS
thats 65

You can build a new one for 60, not SS but you can

he is looking to recover cost, but it is not new

so, how used is it and what is the amt of use left in it

if it was a dream system, why did he upgrade, and now he wants to recover cost because it is not as good as his new system.

 

[Kee]

That is exactly like my mash tun. (In fact I may look in my garage to see if it is still there). The cooler is not the best at heat retention during the mash with my usual 10-12 lbs of grain but otherwise works fine.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Good point kee! The right size tool for the job...I'm not so sure a first time all grain brewer wouldn't be better off with a cheap 20 or 28 quart cooler and a braid.

A 70 quart is large for 8-10 lb grain bills.

 

[aryoung1980]

A 70 quart is large for 8-10 lb grain bills.

I'd almost say too large. Although I generally mash 11-12 pounds, my 48qt cooler can handle up to 19lbs with 1.25qt/lb strike water. There is even some head space left in the tun.


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[Beastmaster315]

You should give him $20 and toss out the cooler. Get yourself a new igloo water cooler.


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[theck]

You should give him $20 and toss out the cooler. Get yourself a new igloo water cooler.


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I have a cheapo $20 Igloo Family 52 and mine holds very well. Buy a few more parts from HD and get a bazooka screen instead of that toilet supply.

 

[Teromous]

Conversion Kit currently $33.95
Bazooka Screen currently $17.95
48 Qt Cooler currently $22.76
-------------------------------------
Total $74.66 before shipping and I didn't even do any shopping around for cheaper prices.

 

[SteveH aka shetc]

Thanks, y'all. Based on your feedback, I am going to build my own (which is part of the fun anyway).

 

[theck]

Thanks, y'all. Based on your feedback, I am going to build my own (which is part of the fun anyway).

Good plan.

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[Dakota21601]

U would be amazed the SS valves and such u can find on ebay. Bought a 1" valve, coupler and washer/grommet nut for under $30. Buddy of mine landed two SS half inch ball valves for $18. Just got to be patient. I have built all my equipment for under $250


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[Marc77]

I used the exact same cooler and built a 4 tube manifold for it. I'm sure that the braid would work just fine, but I'm a stickler about efficiency. I'd rather build a manifold (and am) to get high 70's or even 80% efficiency than a braid and get...well lower. You'll make up the cost over your brewing years in less grain being bought.

 

[masonsjax]

Why would a braid vs manifold have any effect on efficiency?

 

[bschot]

I'm not sure about efficiency but when I built mine I chose manifold over braid because I wanted to make it as fool proof as possible. I was concerned with sparge water running between the grain and cooler wall, I suppose that would affect efficiency. The one thing I did learn about my manifold is to put the side with the slits face down. It really increased my sparge speed, so much so I have to throttle it with the ball valve. Before, the sparge would start out okay and quickly slow to a trickle.

 

[Teromous]

Thanks, y'all. Based on your feedback, I am going to build my own (which is part of the fun anyway).

Make sure to pick up some plumber's tape.

 

[aryoung1980]

I'd rather build a manifold (and am) to get high 70's or even 80% efficiency than a braid and get...well lower. .

I use a SS bazooka tube, basically a braid, and get 75-80% efficiency batch sparging in a rectangular cooler.


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[masonsjax]

Not sure why anyone would want to throttle a batch sparge, you should do it as fast as possible.

Personally, I use a braid and easily get 80%.

Also I'm not sure what is meant by "between the grain and cooler wall". Just vigorously stir in the sparge water and let er rip.