What needs adjusted for no-chill brewing?

[BetterSense]

I'm trying to cut brew-time down. One way I considered doing it was to switch to extract so that I save an hour or more on the mash and sparge. I already do BIAB, so that helps cleanup. But right now it takes me a good hour to cool my beer after the boil, because I don't have a chiller and use an ice-bath method. I could buy a chiller but a good one is $75+ and with my warm tap water I would probably need a pump and ice water anyway.

I already have a 5-gallon HDPE water container. I have read about how people pour the hot wort into the container, tip it over so that the interior is all sanitized, and then pitch yeast in the morning. If I do, this, what do I need to adjust in my recipe?

Why couldn't I do the same thing just by putting the hot wort in my fermentation bucket and letting it 'no-chill' right in the fermenter?

 

[RockSlice]

What I'm doing is pulling out a 1L starter from the wort, which is fast and easy to cool, and then leaving the rest of the pot sealed with cling film until the morning, when I siphon the cooled (and settled) wort into the fermenter and pitch the starter in. (I use a venturi effect attachment to aerate as I'm siphoning)
Some of the more experienced people may disagree with my methods, but it works.

 

[BetterSense]

That seems like significant side benefit of no-chill....letting it settle overnight seems like it would keep a lot of junk out of the fermenter.