I don't bottle much anymore, but try to keep at least a dozen on hand. If the labels don't come off easy, then they go straight to the recycling bin and replaced with something easier to remove.
I'm not familiar with pulverizing pellets(?) for post-crash fermenter dry hopping. It looks like you're using the cold and fast method and the pulverization allows the hops to quickly drop while better giving up the goods? Do I have that right? If memory serves, you use a weighted filter bag on your racking cane to protect your poppets, right?That ten gallons of all-Citra hazy (above) is cold-crashing and needs to get kegged tomorrow. But I was short a keg, so I drained my least full keg on tap (Ballantine IPA with just 3 pours remaining) into a uKeg, then fired up the Mark II and cleaned, sanitized, pressure-checked that keg, then did a Star San purge on it. Then I installed a fresh keg of the same batch of Ballantine IPA and gave it a quick taste and carbonation check (two thumbs up!)
After that I staged everything needed for kegging in the morning because as soon as that's done I'm heading up to our place in NH for a few days of fishing...
Cheers!
Thanks for taking the time and providing such a clear answer. I appreciate it!Actually, I'm looking for a really slow drop of the hops
Yes, at the crux of it all is Scott Janish's work on short and cool dry hopping. I do a "soft crash" to 50°F over two days under light (~0.4 psi) CO2 pressure to avoid any O2 suckage, then add the hops for two days, then cold crash to 36°F (again under CO2) for two days, before kegging. But as I am dealing with carboys there are limitations I'm trying to work around - principally, that I can't drop the yeast after the soft crash as is recommended.
In the past I have noticed pellets dropped into cold beer go straight to the bottom and remain largely intact even after two days - especially the really dense, hard pellets one comes across on occasion. Before doing the short and cool thing I would have swirled the carboys to break those pellets up, but now I don't want to swirl the crashed yeast back into suspension. By pouring in powdered pellets, the mass pretty much sits there atop the beer, and very slowly rains down. It takes a few hours in fact for the last to drop. I think that's maximizing the extract under the circumstances vs the alternative, and there's no need to disturb the yeast cake.
The downside is the potential O2 exposure, so I try to work quickly, and once the pellet powder is in I blow out the carboy headspace with CO2 for awhile to at least bring the O2 content down. When I keg two days later I add some ascorbic acid to each keg and that seems to catch things before they cause problems. I've mentioned often I can keep a super hazy IPA in the keg nice and light for at least five months which is pretty much the worst case duration for anything around here...
Cheers!
Let me know, how this turns out. Still looking for the perfect Summer Ale Clone and had an experiment with Orange peel, but that was definitely way to much of it (3g/l).Today I’ve brewed 15 litres of an Elderflower Saison
2800g Pilsner malt
120g Biscuit malt
120g Honey malt
100g Acid Malt
160g Honey, 10g Elderflowers, 6g Bitter Orange peel all at 10 minutes remaining.
15g Magnum at 45 minutes
25g Saaz at 15 minutes
Crossmyloof Wallonia yeast at 25C
OG 1047 expecting ABV 5.8%
Don't you get a water analysis protocol from your waterworks on request? We just have one water supply ... so I'm actually brewing with toilet water (just definitely out of the tap, not out of the bowl...)the municipality just completed a "pure water project" near here recently...whatever that means...probably that we're drinking toilet water now
Not even during the Oktoberfest season? I mean, I wouldn't buy them here from Aldi, but I know they do sell them and that aren't bad at all.Regarding the weenies, I'm blaming the Germans! They don't carry weisswurst at my local ALDI. For shame, ALDI!
Here's something I did with my Therminator, a shelf made out of a cutting board and drawer slides. The bracket was from Lowes, over near the joist hangers. I didn't need a nut on the posts it stayed put. I've since switched to using a CFC. I flipped the sliding shelf over and attached it to the underside of the table top. The CFC hangs down from shelf. Unfortunately I have a slight bow in the SS tabletop plus the floor slopes a small amount. This causes the shelf to slide from the hanging weight of the CFC. Just an idea for you.I rebuilt my brewing table. The original was over-built, too tall, and had a plywood top that was getting gross. I've been wanting to replace the top with a laminate surface. A barely used studio benchtop at work was finally being disposed of (after being left in the hallway for about 5 years!) and I grabbed it. I wasn't going to just slap it on the old table, so I took the opportunity to completely rebuild it. I used smaller brackets, ripped the 2x4s in half, made it 6" shorter, and took a couple inches off the width and depth so there's a bit of a lip. Can't wait to take it out for a test brew.
View attachment 857937
Here's the before:
View attachment 857939
I also plan on removing the pump and plate chiller from the separate stand and mount them to the table.
I originally put them on the stand so I could easily move them to the basement during the winter, because I worry about any water in them freezing and causing damage. But I've replace the Chugger in the picture with a Riptide, and I can easily remove the head that's held on with a tri-clamp and bring that part in. The plate chiller I plan to rig up with some sort of quick release so I don't have to unbolt it. That also means I can move the controller to the side instead of having it in the way in front of everything.
very cool. I like the plate chiller slide. I'm going to think about that.Here's something I did with my Therminator, a shelf made out of a cutting board and drawer slides. The bracket was from Lowes, over near the joist hangers. I didn't need a nut on the posts it stayed put. I've since switched to using a CFC. I flipped the sliding shelf over and attached it to the underside of the table top. The CFC hangs down from shelf. Unfortunately I have a slight bow in the SS tabletop plus the floor slopes a small amount. This causes the shelf to slide from the hanging weight of the CFC. Just an idea for you.
My controller I have on a computer screen mounting arm that clamps to the table. A little hard to see with the stuff on the table but it clamps near the corner. I like your table cart though. What are the dimensions on the new tabletop? And then what year is the bug?
View attachment 858116
View attachment 858117
I went too wide and my SS table is 72". I would like to drop it to 60"at some point as I could use the extra foot, my garage is small. I used to have three keggles but switched out the MT to an Infussion, still about the same size though.very cool. I like the plate chiller slide. I'm going to think about that.
As for my top, it's 19" deep and about 56" long IIRC. Definitely 50-somthing inches.
I wanted it as short as possible, as I have to wheel it in and out of the garage every time because the VW is in the way. It doesn't run. It's a '62, BTW.I went too wide and my SS table is 72". I would like to drop it to 60"at some point as I could use the extra foot, my garage is small. I used to have three keggles but switched out the MT to an Infussion, still about the same size though.
A six volt then? Most of mine didn't run well either, predominately vans but my first VW was a '72 bug. Bad luck mostly and then problems too expensive to fix.I wanted it as short as possible, as I have to wheel it in and out of the garage every time because the VW is in the way. It doesn't run. It's a '62, BTW.
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