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What do I need to do with malted grain before I boil it with hops?

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I moved from extract brewing to all grain via the BIAB method. So far I am quite pleased with the simplicity of the process and the quality of the end product. I suggest you look into it and see if it might meet your needs. If you use city water, it likely is chlorinated. It's advisable to use Campden tablets to eliminate the chlorine. There is a whole other side to developing water profiles, I've not yet delved into that aspect.
 
I'm pretty sure that the tap water here is relatively soft. Could I just use it? It tastes great by itself.
Sure, you could use it, and keep your fingers crossed.
Just treat municipal with Campden (1/4 tablet or an equivalent pinch of powder per 5 gallons/21 liters) to remove chlorine/chloramines.

You could call your water utility (Quality Control dept.) and ask them for their water source(s), mineral composition, and how stable it is (fluctuations) over the seasons. Especially get the ppm of ions that are of our interest. Download a copy of Bru'nWater (spreadsheet, free version is fine for now), and read it, to see what you need info on.
 
Thanks, I will call my water utility and ask them. How does this look for a mill? Grain Mill - 2-Roller with 7LB Hopper
I know they're in CDN$, but everything looks at least 50% overpriced.

Cereal Killer is one of the brands generally available offering a (US) $100 2-roller mill. There are also many noname Chinese-made knockoffs going around looking similar. Quality of those may vary widely.

How big are your brew batches going to be?
Where are you buying grain? Or recipe "kits?"

If you have a local brew store you could check with them for buying and milling grain. Some may adjust upon request, or even have a dedicated mill for finely crushing BIAB grade grist.
 
I connected my grain mill to a washing machine motor for power. I would suggest that you try to get one that you can swap out the handle for a pulley.
 

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I will be doing all grain batches and I will be brewing with batch spargeing. I'm going to start with small 3G batches or maybe 2.5 G batches I think so I can learn how to do this well and because I'm limited with what I can put on my stove. Honestly I am not 100% sure where I should get my grain as I am new to all of this!

I do want to get the Cereal killer because it comes with a stand so that would save me time. Now if you crank 5 lbs of grain by hand how long would that take? I can't afford a motorized one so I will be doing it all by hand.
 
I will be doing all grain batches and I will be brewing with batch spargeing. I'm going to start with small 3G batches or maybe 2.5 G batches I think so I can learn how to do this well and because I'm limited with what I can put on my stove. Honestly I am not 100% sure where I should get my grain as I am new to all of this!

I do want to get the Cereal killer because it comes with a stand so that would save me time. Now if you crank 5 lbs of grain by hand how long would that take? I can't afford a motorized one so I will be doing it all by hand.
If you have an electric drill, either cordless or corded, you have a “motor” for your mill. A drill with a 1/2” chuck is preferred, as those are usually more powerful. I have a Cereal Killer and power it with an 18v Ryobi drill using the low speed range. I’ve put 5-600 lbs of grain through the mill this way in the last couple of years with no problems.
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but that Cereal killer would be able to mill wheat down to 0.026" right?
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but that Cereal killer would be able to mill wheat down to 0.026" right?
I don't see why not.
The gap is measured between the tops of the knurls of both rollers. A regular credit card is around 0.034" thick, good for Barley. Some of the junk credit cards that come in the mail are much thinner, and perfect for the "narrow gap" job, around 0.026".
 
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