What do I need to do with malted grain before I boil it with hops?

[Beer Viking]

Hey everyone,

I've made beer from beer kits and I want to start making it from scratch by making the wort myself. In a previous thread I can't find now someone said when you buy the malt you have to condition it in some sort of insulated cooler before you boil it with hops to make the wort. Can someone please explain to me what I need to do with the malt before it gets boiled? A lot of the bulk malt looks like it has already been malted so if that is the case would it just be good to go?

Thanks a lot everyone!

Cheers!

 

[tracer bullet]

Buy it, crush it to get to the inside, then soak it around low 150's F for an hour.

Your best bet is to look for some videos, watch them, then ask specific questions.

 

[Beer Viking]

Buy it, crush it to get to the inside, then soak it around low 150's F for an hour.

Your best bet is to look for some videos, watch them, then ask specific questions.

Thanks for the reply, If I get the malt pre milled then would it be the same as if I where to crush it up? Also, what is the process called of soaking the malt so I can find a video?

Thanks!

 

[RM-MN]

Also, what is the process called of soaking the malt so I can find a video?

This is known as mashing. You put the milled grain into water of a calculated temperature so that the enzymes in the grain convert the starches to sugars. You want the water plus grains to settle at a temperature where the correct enzymes are activated. For making beer that temp range would be from about 148-160F. At the low end of that range the beta amylase is most active and will create more fermentable sugar mix. At the higher end you end up with more dextrines which give the beer more body but less alcohol. Most of the time you will want the temperature in the middle of the range, probably 152 to 156F.

You'll find lots of info on making beer from the website, www.howtobrew.com where Jon Palmer has graciously provided the first edition of his book of that name. It would be worth your money to purchase the newest version of that book as it contains some updated information.

 

[Beer Viking]

This is known as mashing. You put the milled grain into water of a calculated temperature so that the enzymes in the grain convert the starches to sugars. You want the water plus grains to settle at a temperature where the correct enzymes are activated. For making beer that temp range would be from about 148-160F. At the low end of that range the beta amylase is most active and will create more fermentable sugar mix. At the higher end you end up with more dextrines which give the beer more body but less alcohol. Most of the time you will want the temperature in the middle of the range, probably 152 to 156F.

Great information man! Now I can't just put it in the oven at 154 for an hour right?

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks for the reply, If I get the malt pre milled then would it be the same as if I where to crush it up? Also, what is the process called of soaking the malt so I can find a video?

Thanks!

Pre-milled malt bought online or from your local brew store tends to be milled rather coarsely.
Like oversized shoes, fits many, pleases few.

When milling it yourself, you get all the control over the crush you want, to tailor it to your mash/lauter system, usually with much better mash efficiency.

 

[RM-MN]

Most ovens do not have that precise of temperature regulation. However, if you heat the water and mix in the grains, then putting the whole kettle in the oven at that temp will keep the mash temp constant.

 

[IslandLizard]

Now I can't just put it in the oven at 154 for an hour right?

You could put your mash kettle/pot inside a prewarmed oven of around that temperature.
But turn the oven off, they rarely keep at the set or even a constant temperature. If it were to rise to say 170F, before the mash is completed, you can be in for a not so nice surprise.

 

[Beer Viking]

Thanks for all the information guys. I'll check out a video on mashing. What do you use to mill your own malt and how fine do you make it? Also, I'm guessing you guys have made some sort of cooler to condition the mash instead of using the oven? What do you call those mash conditioning coolers everyone uses on here?

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks for all the information guys. I'll check out a video on mashing. What do you use to mill your own malt and how fine do you make it? Also, I'm guessing you guys have made some sort of cooler to condition the mash instead of using the oven? What do you call those mash conditioning coolers everyone uses on here?

Many use a 2-roller malt mill ($100-200 and up) or cheaper, a modified/adjusted corn grinder ($25-50 Victory knock-off).

Fineness depends on the system used to mash and lauter (drain).
Generally, for non-fly-sparged homebrew mashes (BIAB or batch sparging), no milled grain pieces should be larger than around 3/32" in diameter.

For batch sparging I mill barley malt at 0.034" gap (credit card thickness) on a 2-roller Monster Mill (MM2). But I readjust for milling Wheat malt to 0.026" (smaller kernels) and even a bit tighter for Oat malt (0.020") since they're skinny needles.
Flaked goods (unmalted adjuncts) don't need milling, but you could if you want.

Many brewers here do BIAB. Something to look into.

I use a converted rectangular cooler (the CPVC manifold is pictured upside down, of course, the slits are downward when mashing):

 

[IslandLizard]

to condition the mash

The grist is mashed, not "conditioned."
However, some brewers condition unmilled grain, right before milling it.

How to Brew...

 

[bracconiere]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/B-K-1-8-in...Y4kVX2gciMlpdPHf4RIaAlfYEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
and one of these..

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bon-Too...VMZoiACZssLcVmiNyLgaAlTcEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
figure out a way to put the 1/8" barb in a 5 gallon bucket, at the bottom, i think it'd be small enough to drain slow enough to let you sparge with 168f water, and the bag would filter the wort? someone else can correct my ghetto idea for a begginner.....

 

[bracconiere]

oh and all the stuff about heating it in water at ~150f first, then dump it in the bucket with drain and bag....$3, for the 1/8" barb, and $7 for the bag, $3 for the bucket...i assume you allready have the pot to collect it in? maybe something to hold the warm water for pouring over it....some 1/8" ID tubing for the drain

 

[Beer Viking]

I watched some videos on how to mash with a cooler. Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[RM-MN]

I watched some videos on how to mash with a cooler. Thanks for the help everyone!

Now find some videos of BIAB. I think you will find it to be a simpler method.

 

[NeoBrew]

I would advise that you watch some videos, and then also consider making your first few all grain batches from kits. They figure out the recipe and give you a step by step set of instructions to follow. You will still need to study up and learn a lot of things on your own, but it should make it easier as you start to learn new techniques.

All grain brewing can be done fairly simple. With some luck you will have some good results as you start out. What you will find is that ensuring that you have a great batch every time takes a lot of technical knowledge and good techniques.

 

[jerrylotto]

By the way, you want to drain the wort (liquid) from the spent grain after mashing. You then rinse the grain with 165 -170 degree water (sparge) and boil just the liquid. You do not want to boil spent grain as you said at first.

 

[Snuffy]

Could I microwave the grain or put it in my Mr. Coffee?

 

[jerrylotto]

If you could control the temperature as precisely as you could otherwise, I don't see any reason why not - but why would you want to?

 

[Beer Viking]

I think I'm just going to jump into this and try the sparging method for my first batch. I understand how to build a mash tub now and that I'll just be boiling the run off and now the spent grain. When you are sparging do you heat up your sparge water in second brew kettle or just a really big cooking pot with a thermomater?

 

[tracer bullet]

I use a 2nd pot.

When I'm done heating sparge water with it, I refill with tap water and iodophor to start sanitizing my fermenting gear.

 

[RM-MN]

You really don't need to heat the sparge water at all. Cool water does almost as well as hot.

 

[jerrylotto]

The water you use matters a lot more than the thing you (pre)heat it in. You'll have to tell me what you think the difference is between a brew kettle and a pot with a thermometer

 

[Beer Viking]

How much of a difference would there be if you sparged with cool tap water and then boiled it? I want to make the best beer possible!

 

[Reneauj62]

The term "Condition" when referring to malt is a process hydrating the husks in order to make the husks of the grain pliable and lessens the chance of shattering the husk (more tannins). Using the process, the husks mainly stays in tack and this helps in creating the filter needed in lautering. Prior to milling the grain you would get the grains slightly moist (NOT WET) by misting the grains with a water bottle. Spray the grain, stir, spray the grains, stir, etc... until the grains feel slightly moist. Cover and let the grains set for 30-60 minutes in order for all the grain's husk to become more uniformly pliable. Once the time has lapsed, you can run them through your mill and you will love the outcome. If your grains are too wet, you won't be so happy.

NOTE: If you buy your grain already milled, there is no reason to do this process..

 

[RM-MN]

lessens the chance of shattering the husk (more tannins).

Its way past time to put that old wives tale to rest. The conditioning is to preserve the husk for the filter medium it produces. Those of us who BIAB have found that grinding the husks to dust does not extract more tannins.

 

[Reneauj62]

Its way past time to put that old wives tale to rest. The conditioning is to preserve the husk for the filter medium it produces. Those of us who BIAB have found that grinding the husks to dust does not extract more tannins.

Not all old wives are wrong....I dare you to tell mine she is wrong......

 

[IslandLizard]

The water you use matters a lot more than the thing you (pre)heat it in.

Exactly! ^
The quality of the water used for brewing. Which and how much of minerals it contains and which not.

 

[BigDave1303]

This is known as mashing. You put the milled grain into water of a calculated temperature so that the enzymes in the grain convert the starches to sugars. You want the water plus grains to settle at a temperature where the correct enzymes are activated. For making beer that temp range would be from about 148-160F. At the low end of that range the beta amylase is most active and will create more fermentable sugar mix. At the higher end you end up with more dextrines which give the beer more body but less alcohol. Most of the time you will want the temperature in the middle of the range, probably 152 to 156F.

You'll find lots of info on making beer from the website, www.howtobrew.com where Jon Palmer has graciously provided the first edition of his book of that name. It would be worth your money to purchase the newest version of that book as it contains some updated information.

Good advise

 

[Beer Viking]

Exactly! ^
The quality of the water used for brewing. Which and how much of minerals it contains and which not.

I'm pretty sure that the tap water here is relatively soft. Could I just use it? It tastes great by itself.

 

[ChiknNutz]

I moved from extract brewing to all grain via the BIAB method. So far I am quite pleased with the simplicity of the process and the quality of the end product. I suggest you look into it and see if it might meet your needs. If you use city water, it likely is chlorinated. It's advisable to use Campden tablets to eliminate the chlorine. There is a whole other side to developing water profiles, I've not yet delved into that aspect.

 

[IslandLizard]

I'm pretty sure that the tap water here is relatively soft. Could I just use it? It tastes great by itself.

Sure, you could use it, and keep your fingers crossed.
Just treat municipal with Campden (1/4 tablet or an equivalent pinch of powder per 5 gallons/21 liters) to remove chlorine/chloramines.

You could call your water utility (Quality Control dept.) and ask them for their water source(s), mineral composition, and how stable it is (fluctuations) over the seasons. Especially get the ppm of ions that are of our interest. Download a copy of Bru'nWater (spreadsheet, free version is fine for now), and read it, to see what you need info on.

 

[Beer Viking]

Thanks, I will call my water utility and ask them. How does this look for a mill? Grain Mill - 2-Roller with 7LB Hopper

 

[ChiknNutz]

Likely identical to this one, which I just recently bought and is $50 less. There are a few that appear identical, just different branding.

https://www.homebrewing.org/Cereal-Killer-Grain-Mill_p_2310.html

 

[Beer Viking]

Really glad you just told me that man!

 

[IslandLizard]

Thanks, I will call my water utility and ask them. How does this look for a mill? Grain Mill - 2-Roller with 7LB Hopper

I know they're in CDN$, but everything looks at least 50% overpriced.

Cereal Killer is one of the brands generally available offering a (US) $100 2-roller mill. There are also many noname Chinese-made knockoffs going around looking similar. Quality of those may vary widely.

How big are your brew batches going to be?
Where are you buying grain? Or recipe "kits?"

If you have a local brew store you could check with them for buying and milling grain. Some may adjust upon request, or even have a dedicated mill for finely crushing BIAB grade grist.

 

[jerrylotto]

I connected my grain mill to a washing machine motor for power. I would suggest that you try to get one that you can swap out the handle for a pulley.

 

[Beer Viking]

I will be doing all grain batches and I will be brewing with batch spargeing. I'm going to start with small 3G batches or maybe 2.5 G batches I think so I can learn how to do this well and because I'm limited with what I can put on my stove. Honestly I am not 100% sure where I should get my grain as I am new to all of this!

I do want to get the Cereal killer because it comes with a stand so that would save me time. Now if you crank 5 lbs of grain by hand how long would that take? I can't afford a motorized one so I will be doing it all by hand.

 

[jerrylotto]

I tend to crack 50 lb of grain at a time which is why I use a motor. You should have no problem hand cranking 5 lb.

 

[Beer Viking]

That's awesome thanks man!