What BIAB brewing actually is (Mythbusting for traditionalists)

[AdjunctBrewer]

So, per @mabrungard , batch sparging SG typically stays above the 4 - 5 Plato/Brix limit he suggests for minimizing tannin and silicate extraction.

However, if doing multiple batch sparges, the final runnings SG could end up below the 4 Plato/Brix limit, if the pre-boil SG is at the lower end for beer wort.

The grind to dust (grind till your scared, etc...) practice in BIAB might also play a role in tannin extraction especially if the husks are ground to a powder (corona type mill, roller mill w/ too small of a gap) as opposed to left whole (roller mill with correct gap).

There doesn't seem to be any formal studies on BIAB tannin extraction vs grind, SG, pH and temperature - and how one variable affects the others - most just go by pH and temperature constraints. (As opposed to the informal "I always grind till I'm scared and haven't noticed anything...")

 

[doug293cz]

The grind to dust (grind till your scared, etc...) practice in BIAB might also play a role in tannin extraction especially if the husks are ground to a powder (corona type mill, roller mill w/ too small of a gap) as opposed to left whole (roller mill with correct gap).

There doesn't seem to be any formal studies on BIAB tannin extraction vs grind, SG, pH and temperature - and how one variable affects the others - most just go by pH and temperature constraints. (As opposed to the informal "I always grind till I'm scared and haven't noticed anything...")

Something to consider with husks, is that they are thin membranes, and as such, there are very short diffusion distances for water to penetrate and compounds to leach out - if they are going to. Also, because husks are thin, the surface area does not increase much if they are shredded. I doubt husk shredding plays a determinative role in tannin extraction, and that temp, pH, and osmotic pressure play much larger roles.

Brew on

 

[Bobby_M]

I have been using BIAB for several years. This thread is perhaps one of the most useful I have seen for BIAB on this forum. I am no expert but there is a lot of useful discussion in this thread for BIAB. As for myself I do a dunk sparge after mashing, if only to get back to full boil volume. I also use a water temp between 170-180 F to mash out. Maybe it doesn't add much sugar to the wort, but my main interest is getting the full boil volume for the boil as I lose on average 1 gallon from grain mashing in BIAB.

The follow up question is whether you could increase the starting water by 1 gallon to make up for the absorption in advance? That's what most full volume mashers do; anticipate all the losses and built that in to the water calculation. The reason for NOT doing that is that your kettle is too small to accommodate that extra gallon up front, once the grain is added.

 

[AdjunctBrewer]

Something to consider with husks, is that they are thin membranes, and as such, there are very short diffusion distances for water to penetrate and compounds to leach out - if they are going to. Also, because husks are thin, the surface area does not increase much if they are shredded. I doubt husk shredding plays a determinative role in tannin extraction, and that temp, pH, and osmotic pressure play much larger roles.

Brew on

Something to think about:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...y-astringency-discussion.598719/#post-7836463

For what it's worth, the textbooks used by the German brewing universities like Narziss and Kunze all caution against shredding the husk because it releases a larger quantity of undesirable enzymes like LOX and PPO which can then work to create increased quantities of staling compounds, which can also be astringent. They go through significant lengths to keep the husk intact via processes like steam conditioning, and sometimes even strip away the worst offending parts of the husk like where the arcospire attaches because they contain the greatest concentration of the bad enzymes. But most American craft breweries and homebrewers pay little to no attention to any of that.

 

[North_of_60]

The thread that never dies. Good write up.

I BIAB for 4 reasons:
1. Its all grain
2. It makes great beer
3. The initial cost is minimal
4. I'm lazy, but not lazy enough for extract

I keg for 1 reason:
1. I'm lazy

I ferment in the keg for 2 reasons
1. Cost, I already have the kegs
2. I'm lazy

So bottom line, I'm cheep and lazy.

 

[doug293cz]

Something to think about:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...y-astringency-discussion.598719/#post-7836463

This is an "appeal to authority" argument, which is one of the common logical fallacies. Do any of those textbooks present real data that compares intact husks to shredded husks to powdered husks w.r.t. to undesirable enzyme concentrations, or tannin, silicate, etc. concentrations, or references to such data? I would be interested in the research that supports the German practices. I prefer to be data driven, not just opinion driven.

With that said, I do not have any measurement data that supports my argument. My argument is based on well established diffusion science, and assumes that diffusion rates are not a function of direction in the husk material, which could be a false assumption (but seems reasonable, at least until contravening evidence is available.)

Brew on

 

[InspectorJon]

They go through significant lengths to keep the husk intact via processes like steam conditioning, and sometimes even strip away the worst offending parts of the husk like where the arcospire attaches because they contain the greatest concentration of the bad enzymes

How would any home brewer ever do that? I can’t prove it but I feel like there must be a lot of other more significant processes we could work on improving before going down the manipulation of barley husks rabbit hole.

 

[AdjunctBrewer]

How would any home brewer ever do that? I can’t prove it but I feel like there must be a lot of other more significant processes we could work on improving before going down the manipulation of barley husks rabbit hole.

That quote isn't from me, it's from a LODO guy named Techbrau in the linked thread.

Dehusking barley at the commercial level is a fairly common operation.

For the homebrewer it would probably suffice to condition the grain before milling.

Do any of those textbooks present real data that compares intact husks to shredded husks to powdered husks w.r.t. to undesirable enzyme concentrations, or tannin, silicate, etc. concentrations, or references to such data?

That's my question also as I don't own those texts.

With that said, I do not have any measurement data that supports my argument.

Well sure, that's why I've asked for any studies done on the subject in #401.

 

[Barão]

Can I make BIAB in the Brewzilla automatic pan ? Would the grain bag be inside or outside the malt basket?

 

[JohnDBrewer]

There's a local brewery where I live and they use a mash press. The grain is completely pulverized, finer then flour by the looks of it. When the mash is complete they run it through the filter. They make good beer and are a big player in the local market. The brewery says their efficiency is in the high 90%. Not sure if they strip the hulls before the grind it to dust. Next time our club has a meeting there I'll get more info. I had never or heard of anything like it so really didn't know what questions to ask. Here's the link to the system.

https://www.brewmation.com/brewing/mash-press

 

[Closet Fermenter]

Can I make BIAB in the Brewzilla automatic pan ? Would the grain bag be inside or outside the malt basket?

I have not done a full biab. I have done a couple full volume mash runs in a Digiboil. This is a 1st generation, 110v unit I got cheap on clearance. I used it, as designed, to heat water. Then, I bought the mash upgrade kit, (again, on clearance), that included a false bottom, malt pipe, and ring to sit the malt pipe on while draining.
The first batch, I just put the grains into the malt pipe. I only had a very small amount of grain escape the pipe and get through the false bottom, but I was a little concerned about scorching.
The next batch, it occurred to me to use my bag inside the malt pipe. I should mention that I am using a corona mill, so I do get some portion of really fine grist in my mash. Wow! Talk about clear, clean wort coming out! I still hit my target OG, so I plan to continue to do this whenever I have a small enough grain bill to fit my unit.
I have done a fly sparge when I didn’t have quite enough room for a full volume mash.
I would think that if you put it outside the malt pipe, it would be about the same thing, but maybe a little awkward to deal with. I would be careful to avoid letting it contact the bottom where it could melt. A false bottom should prevent that.

 

[Closet Fermenter]

Can I make BIAB in the Brewzilla automatic pan ? Would the grain bag be inside or outside the malt basket?

I suppose the real question is should we use the malt pipe at all? There’s a lot of water that surrounds the malt pipe, and on my early model, there’s no pump for recirculating. I can do it manually with a small pot, (I have actually done this), or could hook up an external pump. I could get more grain in there if I ditch the malt pipe. The advantage of the pipe is that it rests on top and drains. I guess the bag sitting on the false bottom is about the same thing.

 

[Halfakneecap]

Can I make BIAB in the Brewzilla automatic pan ? Would the grain bag be inside or outside the malt basket?

Yes, take the malt basket out, but leave the false bottom in. I used to do that in my Robobrew for double batches

 

[Halfakneecap]

I suppose the real question is should we use the malt pipe at all? There’s a lot of water that surrounds the malt pipe, and on my early model, there’s no pump for recirculating. I can do it manually with a small pot, (I have actually done this), or could hook up an external pump. I could get more grain in there if I ditch the malt pipe. The advantage of the pipe is that it rests on top and drains. I guess the bag sitting on the false bottom is about the same thing.

Yes, or you can use clamps to hold the bag up off the bottom, but i found the false bottom is fine. Id stir it a few times through the mash, and id still recirc.

I ended up getting the extension kit for the 35L robo, and now do doubles using the pipe. But before i did that i could get a double batch by using the bag. It was a tight squeeze, and could only work with lower gravity beers ( 1.038 or less ) unless i added sugar to the boil, but it was possible.


I take the central overflow pipe out on my robo, and use a SS bolt to fill the hole. I never fill to that point and it gets in the way for me.

 

[brewmanStan]

Well, I never intended to get involved with this, but I guess maybe it's time. I've never used any other method than all-grain BIAB, and I've always used my own recipes except for the initial wheat ale kit I bought to get my feet wet, and all in my kitchen, on an electric range top. Back when I started, BIAB brewers were still getting hammered pretty bad about the way we brewed. Personally, after well over 100 successful batches of beer in as many tries, I don't care what anybody thinks about my method, and when I say my method, it's because I've adjusted into a comfort zone over time that's not exactly like the book. Works for me, and best of all, my friends and family love the beer I make, and constantly tell me it's better than anything they can buy at the store. I don't let all that go to my head. It simply tells me I'm doing it right. I mostly brew 4 gallon batches but I have occasionally brewed one and three gallon batches. BIAB is the easiest and least expensive way to get into all grain brewing. I wouldn't know how to do it any other way, and I wouldn't even know how to use a malt extract.

 

[MaxStout]

Well, I never intended to get involved with this, but I guess maybe it's time. I've never used any other method than all-grain BIAB, and I've always used my own recipes except for the initial wheat ale kit I bought to get my feet wet, and all in my kitchen, on an electric range top. Back when I started, BIAB brewers were still getting hammered pretty bad about the way we brewed. Personally, after well over 100 successful batches of beer in as many tries, I don't care what anybody thinks about my method, and when I say my method, it's because I've adjusted into a comfort zone over time that's not exactly like the book. Works for me, and best of all, my friends and family love the beer I make, and constantly tell me it's better than anything they can buy at the store. I don't let all that go to my head. It simply tells me I'm doing it right. I mostly brew 4 gallon batches but I have occasionally brewed one and three gallon batches. BIAB is the easiest and least expensive way to get into all grain brewing. I wouldn't know how to do it any other way, and I wouldn't even know how to use a malt extract.

I remember BIAB having an image problem of sorts several years ago when I started doing it, but I think the stigma is long gone now.

Glad to hear you are having successful batches.

 

[bwible]

I mostly brew 4 gallon batches but I have occasionally brewed one and three gallon batches.

I mostly brew 3 gallon batches. I’m interested in how you do 4 gallons. What do you ferment in? I’m guessing you don’t use a secondary since nobody makes a 4 gallon anything. Do you bottle all your beer? Or put 4 gallons in a 5 gallon keg?

I’m always curious to learn how others do things.

Thanks!

 

[Bobby_M]

I remember BIAB having an image problem of sorts several years ago when I started doing it, but I think the stigma is long gone now.

For the most part, I think we've turned the corner. For many of the older members of our hobby, not necessary age "old", but people brewing for 2 decades or more, tend to have a harder time understanding the process (or accepting its viability). The irony of it all is that it's really the only method I could see myself carrying into my later years.

 

[mac_1103]

If it wasn't for BIAB I'd have stuck to extract.

 

[Willy]

If it wasn't for BIAB I'd have stuck to extract.

Or a small grain bill, in hop socks, in a mixed batch. That's how I morphed into all grain, BIAB.

 

[sibelman]

For many of the older members of our hobby, not necessary age "old", but people brewing for 2 decades or more, tend to have a harder time understanding the process (or accepting its viability). The irony of it all is that it's really the only method I could see myself carrying into my later years.

Maybe I'm one of the folks Bobby is too kind to call a curmudgeon, as I'm both "age old" and "homebrewing old." But I now accept the BIAB narrative. Also, even though I've spent quite a bit on stainless vessels, I try to embrace the wisdom of the sunk-cost fallacy.

If I were buying equipment today, I'd surely (and non-ironically) go with @Bobby_M's eBIAB package. One day, I might abandon my 3V system in favor of BIAB for the reduced space use, lifting and cleaning. I'd only need to modify my kettle a bit and buy a Wilser bag, a steam condenser of some kind, and a hoist. EDIT: and a false bottom for the kettle.

Ironically, for a while in the early 90s I did my own primitive BIAB (before that term was coined, as far as I know). But it wasn't ideal: I used an Oster blender as my malt "mill" back then, so lautering was a nightmare.

 

[bwible]

For the most part, I think we've turned the corner. For many of the older members of our hobby, not necessary age "old", but people brewing for 2 decades or more, tend to have a harder time understanding the process (or accepting its viability). The irony of it all is that it's really the only method I could see myself carrying into my later years.

The electric all in ones maybe helped turn that corner too. Essentially the exact same thing.

 

[brewmanStan]

I mostly brew 3 gallon batches. I’m interested in how you do 4 gallons. What do you ferment in? I’m guessing you don’t use a secondary since nobody makes a 4 gallon anything. Do you bottle all your beer? Or put 4 gallons in a 5 gallon keg?

I’m always curious to learn how others do things.

Thanks!

Yeah, hey bwible. I use 5 gallon Big Mouth plastic fermenters I purchased from Northern Brewer. They are light, easy to clean, and work well for me. I don't do secondary. All my beers are bottled, 12,16,22 and32 oz bottles depending how I want a particular batch. My first thirty to forty bathes were mostly 3 gallon using glass fermenters but started making 4 gallons a few years back just to make more of brew days.
I use a 8 gallon Tall Boy kettle initially filled with 6.3 gallons of water which of coarse dwindles down to 4 gallons by the time it's transferred to the fermenter at the end of the process.

 

[bwible]

Yeah, hey bwible. I use 5 gallon Big Mouth plastic fermenters I purchased from Northern Brewer. They are light, easy to clean, and work well for me. I don't do secondary. All my beers are bottled, 12,16,22 and32 oz bottles depending how I want a particular batch. My first thirty to forty bathes were mostly 3 gallon using glass fermenters but started making 4 gallons a few years back just to make more of brew days.
I use a 8 gallon Tall Boy kettle initially filled with 6.3 gallons of water which of coarse dwindles down to 4 gallons by the time it's transferred to the fermenter at the end of the process.

That makes sense. If you ever want to go to kegs, you can go back to 3 gallon batches and use 3 gallon kegs. I’m actually doing the opposite. I started doing 5 gallon batches and it was just too much beer. 1 batch = 2 cases, 3 batches = 6 cases, 5 batches = 10 cases. I was floating in beer. I don’t buy 2 cases of the same beer, why do I want to brew 2 cases of the same beer? So I went to doing 3 gallons. Works out to 30 bottles if I bottle. And sometimes I do, especially strong beers. I have 3 gallon kegs.

I’ve been working on an even smaller all grain set up, trying to get to where I can brew a 12 pack at a time. For some beers, thats plenty for me. I also have 1.5 gallon kegs or I would just bottle the 12.

I just brewed 5 gallons of Octoberfest for an event and to fill the 5 gallon keg I had to brew twice because I’ve gone smaller. I like it though. Its working, I have a more reasonable stockpile now.

 

[brewmanStan]

That makes sense. If you ever want to go to kegs, you can go back to 3 gallon batches and use 3 gallon kegs. I’m actually doing the opposite. I started doing 5 gallon batches and it was just too much beer. 1 batch = 2 cases, 3 batches = 6 cases, 5 batches = 10 cases. I was floating in beer. I don’t buy 2 cases of the same beer, why do I want to brew 2 cases of the same beer? So I went to doing 3 gallons. Works out to 30 bottles if I bottle. And sometimes I do, especially strong beers. I have 3 gallon kegs.

I’ve been working on an even smaller all grain set up, trying to get to where I can brew a 12 pack at a time. For some beers, thats plenty for me. I also have 1.5 gallon kegs or I would just bottle the 12.

I just brewed 5 gallons of Octoberfest for an event and to fill the 5 gallon keg I had to brew twice because I’ve gone smaller. I like it though. Its working, I have a more reasonable stockpile now.

I'm seriously considering going back to making 3 gallon batches, mainly because 3 gallons is easier to carry downstairs where the temp is just right for ale fermentation. I'm 73, and every time I head downstairs with a 4 gallon batch I cuss myself. Not to mention, after a couple weeks I have to lug it back up the stairs to bottle it. Overall, it's worth it. Just glad I can do it.

 

[Halfakneecap]

That makes sense. If you ever want to go to kegs, you can go back to 3 gallon batches and use 3 gallon kegs. I’m actually doing the opposite. I started doing 5 gallon batches and it was just too much beer. 1 batch = 2 cases, 3 batches = 6 cases, 5 batches = 10 cases. I was floating in beer. I don’t buy 2 cases of the same beer, why do I want to brew 2 cases of the same beer? So I went to doing 3 gallons. Works out to 30 bottles if I bottle. And sometimes I do, especially strong beers. I have 3 gallon kegs.

I’ve been working on an even smaller all grain set up, trying to get to where I can brew a 12 pack at a time. For some beers, thats plenty for me. I also have 1.5 gallon kegs or I would just bottle the 12.

I just brewed 5 gallons of Octoberfest for an event and to fill the 5 gallon keg I had to brew twice because I’ve gone smaller. I like it though. Its working, I have a more reasonable stockpile now.

I'm sold on smaller kegs. I use 9.5L ( 3gal? ) rather than 19L kegs. They fit in the fridge better and i can also keg half and bottle half. Not that i like bottling, but it gives me options.

I have a tiny 2L keg. I plan on using that for UK ales, if i ever get a beer engine. That way i can drink it without worrying about having to drink it all quickly.

 

[Halfakneecap]

Well, I never intended to get involved with this, but I guess maybe it's time. I've never used any other method than all-grain BIAB, and I've always used my own recipes except for the initial wheat ale kit I bought to get my feet wet, and all in my kitchen, on an electric range top. Back when I started, BIAB brewers were still getting hammered pretty bad about the way we brewed. Personally, after well over 100 successful batches of beer in as many tries, I don't care what anybody thinks about my method, and when I say my method, it's because I've adjusted into a comfort zone over time that's not exactly like the book. Works for me, and best of all, my friends and family love the beer I make, and constantly tell me it's better than anything they can buy at the store. I don't let all that go to my head. It simply tells me I'm doing it right. I mostly brew 4 gallon batches but I have occasionally brewed one and three gallon batches. BIAB is the easiest and least expensive way to get into all grain brewing. I wouldn't know how to do it any other way, and I wouldn't even know how to use a malt extract.

When BIAB came about here, a lot of people were into huge, complicated 3V, usually on a big fabricated stand.

I think a lot of the looking down on BIAB came because it was so simple, and took up no room. People had invested in pumps/trolley/temp probes, raspberry Pi etc

I clearly remember the club brewday where i was sold on BIAB. The host brewer was trying to trouble shoot a temp probe issue on his massive trolley mounted 3v, complete with pumps, controller and all the associated hardware, while one of the other guys had a big azz propane burner, a big pot, a bag, and a handheld thermometer. All he had to do was check the temp every 10 mins, otherwise he got to enjoy a relaxed get together and make beer. The host was stuffing around and swearing and had to baby his rig the whole time.

I bought a bag that week and got rid of my HLT etc. Mashing boiling cooling is mashing boiling cooling no matter how you do it

 

[JohnDBrewer]

I'm a 3v, propane brewer. Not a portable system, so when I take it on the road, like the club big brew days and such, I do BIAB. A couple of weeks ago one of my clubs did a brew day and there were about 6 of us brewing. Half brought their AIO systems. It struck me that the AIO's are at least 2v systems, and in some cases 3v systems for guys who also heated water on the side. One system had multiple plates in it, not just a simple pipe. I guess my point is my 3v system didn't seem any more complicated or less hard to clean and such. As the only BIAB guy there, I finished an hour faster then everyone else.

 

[brewmanStan]

When BIAB came about here, a lot of people were into huge, complicated 3V, usually on a big fabricated stand.

I think a lot of the looking down on BIAB came because it was so simple, and took up no room. People had invested in pumps/trolley/temp probes, raspberry Pi etc

I clearly remember the club brewday where i was sold on BIAB. The host brewer was trying to trouble shoot a temp probe issue on his massive trolley mounted 3v, complete with pumps, controller and all the associated hardware, while one of the other guys had a big azz propane burner, a big pot, a bag, and a handheld thermometer. All he had to do was check the temp every 10 mins, otherwise he got to enjoy a relaxed get together and make beer. The host was stuffing around and swearing and had to baby his rig the whole time.

I bought a bag that week and got rid of my HLT etc. Mashing boiling cooling is mashing boiling cooling no matter how you do it

Yeah Halfakneecap, I've never used anything but an old fashion hand held thermometer myself. Everything I do is about as basic as you can get with good results. I prefer it that way and I kinda enjoy it. No need in investing any more. If it aint broke don't fix it.

 

[Halfakneecap]

Yeah Halfakneecap, I've never used anything but an old fashion hand held thermometer myself. Everything I do is about as basic as you can get with good results. I prefer it that way and I kinda enjoy it. No need in investing any more. If it aint broke don't fix it.

I totally understand some people love tinkering and building their system. I get that. Me, i work in maintenance, so i, like you, keep things as simple as possible for that reason, less maintenance. It's why i also only own japanese cars as well.

 

[Yooper]

For the most part, I think we've turned the corner. For many of the older members of our hobby, not necessary age "old", but people brewing for 2 decades or more, tend to have a harder time understanding the process (or accepting its viability). The irony of it all is that it's really the only method I could see myself carrying into my later years.

I think @Bobby_M is talking about me…….I started with a pot and a cooler, then went to a gas burner and a keggle, then onto a half barrel 3 vessel all electric HERMS.
I got older, and gradually went to BIAB and my cooler along with the HLT and electric brew kettle. Then, I went to a small footprint all in one. I now exclusively BIAB in that old 10 gallon cooler, and use the AIO just to heat water and boil……

The beer is actually the same, except step mashing is nearly impossible (and why on earth did I even bother with that?!?!?)

I do no sparge full volume BIAB and using the cooler for the MLT means lightweight easy clean up. I just wish it didn’t take me 20 years to get smarter!

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

From an article in mid-July 2025 (link) at a AU-based site written by a well known USA-based home brewer:

I [the Author, not me] used to brew on a three-tier 10-gallon system that was highly efficient, but a real chore to clean at the end of an eight-hour brew day. I added pumps to automate some of the work, but after 10 years, I moved to a five-gallon system that only used two vessels and that saved me some time in cleaning up. A decade later and I moved to a 2.5 gallon or 10 litre all-in-one [...]

So many of the techniques and practices that we have learned are based on large scale brewing economics that we lose sight of the actual goal – making a great wort that will ferment into a great beer. [...]

There's more in the article and at the site.

 

[InspectorJon]

I just wish it didn’t take me 20 years to get smarter!

Ooh La La …

 

[madscientist451]

I know exclusively BIAB in that old 10 gallon cooler, and use the AIO just to heat water and boil……

The beer is actually the same, except step mashing is nearly impossible (and why on earth did I even bother with that?!?!?)

I started with BIAB in a Cooler, then did fly sparge BIAB, got a keggle, hardly used it, now I downsized to 3 gallon in electric AIO, with a dunk sparge in side pot. The cooler gets used for bigger batches or high gravity brews. I do step mashes occasionally using the “rest calculator” on the Green Bay Rackers website.
https://www.rackers.org/calcs2/

 

[brewmanStan]

I think @Bobby_M is talking about me…….I started with a pot and a cooler, then went to a gas burner and a keggle, then onto a half barrel 3 vessel all electric HERMS.
I got older, and gradually went to BIAB and my cooler along with the HLT and electric brew kettle. Then, I went to a small footprint all in one. I know exclusively BIAB in that old 10 gallon cooler, and use the AIO just to heat water and boil……

The beer is actually the same, except step mashing is nearly impossible (and why on earth did I even bother with that?!?!?)

I do no sparge full volume BIAB and using the cooler for the MLT means lightweight easy clean up. I just wish it didn’t take me 20 years to get smarter!

I suppose I can consider myself lucky Yooper. When I got interested in brewing beer a few years before I retired in 2018, I did a lot of research, and that's when I discovered that one of the brew supply places had a one gallon starter kit that just happened to be BIAB. I thought to myself "This sure looks a lot easier and less expensive than all that other stuff", so I bought it, and simply made one gallon batches for a while. When I retired I decided I wanted to make larger batches, so I bought a larger 8 gallon kettle, larger brew bag and wort coolers, etc. and started making 3 gallon batches, and later 4 gallons. I'm glad I didn't listen to everybody trying to tell me my beer would never be any good if I did BIAB.

 

[Halfakneecap]

I don't remember anyone being outright negative about BIAB here when it came around, just that i think a lot of people looked at big systems and scratched their head at the thought you could do it so simply.

 

[Bobby_M]

I don't remember anyone being outright negative about BIAB here when it came around, just that i think a lot of people looked at big systems and scratched their head at the thought you could do it so simply.

It was a bit more hostile than you remember, but I'm also talking about out in the wild, clubs, in my shop, etc...

 

[Halfakneecap]

It was a bit more hostile than you remember, but I'm also talking about out in the wild, clubs, in my shop, etc...

By "here", i meant here in Aus, not here on HBT. Lots of our brew club at the time ditched the big systems for BIAB once they saw it.

 

[wsmith1625]

I don't remember anyone being outright negative about BIAB here when it came around, just that i think a lot of people looked at big systems and scratched their head at the thought you could do it so simply.

I can't recall specific threads, but I do remember the overall sentiment from many 3 vessel brewers was that BIAB made inferior beer.

Those views led to some intense threads. I loved it when the big guns showed up from each side. They were fun and full of great information.

 

[Dgallo]

Dehusking barley at the commercial level is a fairly common operation.

I have personally brewed at 5 commercial breweries and have probably visited or toured on brew days at 10 other, never once have I seen anyone dehusk barley.

Are you speaking of major Macros breweries? Like AHB? If so than thats by no means a fairly common operation..