I have one and you do need the little buffer pouches to calibrate it each time for use, but my efficiency jumped about 10% when I dialed in my pH with it (not saying strips wouldn't be as good - I just never used them.)
I have one and you do need the little buffer pouches to calibrate it each time for use, but my efficiency jumped about 10% when I dialed in my pH with it (not saying strips wouldn't be as good - I just never used them.)
why not just use 5.2?
was that a dumb question?
I had never heard of 5.2 buffer until you posted this. Does it work?
I had never heard of 5.2 buffer until you posted this. Does it work?
The more I read in the brewing science forum, the less I believe it does anything beneficial. Ajdelange (the water chemistry guru) flat out says not to use it.
I have one and you do need the little buffer pouches to calibrate it each time for use, but my efficiency jumped about 10% when I dialed in my pH with it (not saying strips wouldn't be as good - I just never used them.)
I'd be fine calibrating it for each brew day. That is a lot less expensive than dropping over $100 on a meter. Thanks for the heads up! Do you recommend any particular buffer solution?
While we are on things you add to your brew, I add whirlfloc to everything. I have recently started wondering if the fining thins the body of my beers. I have no problem with that for lighter beers but my biggest complaint about the dark (porter/stouts) I have brewed is that they just seem too thin. Does the fining contribute to that thin mouth feel?
While we are on things you add to your brew, I add whirlfloc to everything. I have recently started wondering if the fining thins the body of my beers. I have no problem with that for lighter beers but my biggest complaint about the dark (porter/stouts) I have brewed is that they just seem too thin. Does the fining contribute to that thin mouth feel?
Damn. I add it to everything and have had issues with thin stouts. I just brewed a RIS that will have a FG around 1.035-1.040, so if that one seems thin I'll stop using whirlfloc.
I am not saying it does anything to the body. I am merely asking.
EDIT: also, short of adding lactos, what can be done to give these beers a thicker texture? Mash at a higher temperature, I would imagine would do it, but to what extent? Is there a grain that should be used to thicken up the beer?
I am not saying it does anything to the body. I am merely asking.
EDIT: also, short of adding lactos, what can be done to give these beers a thicker texture? Mash at a higher temperature, I would imagine would do it, but to what extent? Is there a grain that should be used to thicken up the beer?
IF you do some reading up on that product, including the Bru'n water knowledge page, most people say it doesnt work that well, or at all. From what ive read, it doesnt move PH that much unless you use a lot, but then you have introduced a lot more salt into your water as well.
I am not saying it does anything to the body. I am merely asking.
EDIT: also, short of adding lactos, what can be done to give these beers a thicker texture? Mash at a higher temperature, I would imagine would do it, but to what extent? Is there a grain that should be used to thicken up the beer?
Mashing at a higher temp certainly helps, and grains also play a part in their ability to convert to simple sugars or not, like wobrien mentioned. Most big or sweeter stouts mash at 156. I was aiming for that on my Buffalo Sweat clone and it ended up at 154. It was noticeable by me and others on this site that there wasnt enough body. Even BJCP judges picked that out, so mash temperature is one of the biggest keys, as well as some other aspects. Also, dont be afraid to add lactose. It does wonders for keeping a beer fuller bodied and helps mouth feel.
Glad I invested in the mash tun. With my BIAB set up, I was losing a lot of temp in my mash. I did not like to swing things by firing up the burner again. I have a feeling I just do not really know what my true mash temp was when I was doing the BIAB brews. The Igloo, according to my digital pen thermometer, did not lose so much as 0.10 degree during the 60 minute mash on my SMaSH brew. I'm guessing that might be the biggest problem I was having with my BIAB porter/stouts.
I am not saying it does anything to the body. I am merely asking.
EDIT: also, short of adding lactos, what can be done to give these beers a thicker texture? Mash at a higher temperature, I would imagine would do it, but to what extent? Is there a grain that should be used to thicken up the beer?
Glad I invested in the mash tun. With my BIAB set up, I was losing a lot of temp in my mash. I did not like to swing things by firing up the burner again. I have a feeling I just do not really know what my true mash temp was when I was doing the BIAB brews. The Igloo, according to my digital pen thermometer, did not lose so much as 0.10 degree during the 60 minute mash on my SMaSH brew. I'm guessing that might be the biggest problem I was having with my BIAB porter/stouts.
Right now I just wrap my pot in a sleeping bag.
The reviews are all over the place but you say you use it with the calibrating solutions?I use the Hanna 4.01 & 7.01 solutions since my LHBS carries them for about the same price as Amazon (a little over $1.00 each.) Easy to use and work well.
Having read through the water chemistry thread (and about 1/2 way through the book Water,) I personally would never use 5.2 buffer solution. The amount needed to bring your wort to the right level has to impact the beer in then (IMO.) I use distilled water and build it up and have never had to do much adjustment after dough-in to hit my pH.
I doubt it has a major impact on mouthfeel or clarity - I skip it when I'm brewing dark beers. Even the ******-bags on BA don't mention the clarity on an RIS.![]()
Water.
The 49ers get to tear a new butthole into Dallas to start the season!
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Odds are obviously not in my favor but care to make a beer wager?
Odds are obviously not in my favor but care to make a beer wager?
If we played this year, I would be up for that.