kev211
Well-Known Member
Christmas shopping. I've done none yet. This weekend will suck. Serves me right for procrastination.
Amazon prime is your friend.
Christmas shopping. I've done none yet. This weekend will suck. Serves me right for procrastination.
In the theme if I don't know why she swallowed that fly:
I know a home brewer who wanted to frame in his stone foundation so he could get room to brew in the basement,
but the stones were loose so he had to repoint the foundation wall,
And the moisture from the dryer venting inside was loosening the wall so he had to vent the dryer,
so he went to install a glass blocks in the window but the sill was rotten,
So he removed the sill and the frame was rotten,
So he removed the frame but the foundation stones were lose,
So he repointed the stones but the opening was now to big
So (deep breath) he poured a new concrete sil to support the block in the repointed window to install a vent for the dryer so the basement would be dry when he repointed the main basement so that he could frame in the walls for dry storage so that there would be room for the new electric brewery.
I don't know why he swallowed the fly ... I hope he don't die!
Kitchen remodeling in our "new" old house.
Goal: wanted our dishwasher in the kitchen badly.
Problem: cabinets from 1950s not tall enough to fit a dishwasher under the countertops.
Solution: remove all cabinets with a crowbar and sledgehammer and replace them with our new cabinets.
Problem: plumbing from 1950s - no shutoff valves under sink, cast-iron drain pipe with huge freaking s-trap and lead-sealed joints, drain-pipe copper welded to the old sink..
Solution: shut off water to the entire house and install shut-off valves plus supply lines to the new sink. jigsaw the drain pipe off of the sink (break two jigsaw blades and finish the job with a hacksaw). beat the copper drain pipe out of the cast-iron joint, clean it up and fit it with a rubber adapter.
Problem: still can't install the dishwasher because the huge-ass cast-iron s-trap is in the way.
Solution: buy a reciprocating saw, saw the cast-iron pipe off flush with the lowest joint, hammer-drill a bunch of holes down into the lead, do two vertical cuts down the INSIDE of the pipe and let swmbo finish the job with a handheld sledge and a pair of chisels and a forehead lamp while I have a beer.
Problem: can't get all of the lead and oakum out of the bottom inner lip of the cast-iron joint, need to wait until tomorrow noon when the stores open to buy a pair of round-nose pliers to finish the job so we can install the new rubber boot.
I can't think of anything I hate more than working with old plumbing. However, I have a new 18-volt lithium-ion reciprocating saw from Bosch. I used a flexible metal-cutting blade and went through a 4-inch cast-iron pipe in less than 10 minutes without even draining the battery down a single bar out of five (I can test the battery capacity by putting the battery onto my drill and squeezing the trigger, thus activating it's "fuel-tank" battery level indicator). At 110 EUR for the saw and 6 EUR for a blade that is now in the trash can, the saw more than paid for itself on this one job alone - it would have easily cost me 300 EUR to have a plumber remove that s-trap from that lead-sealed joint. And bonus, swmbo has a tool to cut a path through the forest at our backyard now!
What I really wanted to be doing this weekend was making a batch of stout and a batch of cider.
Finding and fixing old plumbing/wiring problems is a huge PITA, but at least now you know it is going to be done right. I mean I found that my oven was piggybacking the same circuit as my clothes dryer. That is fixed now and I can breathe more easily.
Laying on the couch sick dreaming of brewing and listening to old episodes of the Jamil Show.
Here in Finland, and most of the EU I suspect, we use a dedicated three phase circuit for the oven/stove. My house is so old that it originally had a wood-burning stove in the kitchen, so the wire going to the stove is a lot newer than the rest of the wiring in this place. Anyway, it's three hots and a neutral jumpered to ground. Not sure if I'll yank it and run 5-core wire or not. In any case, I need to hammer-chisel a channel from the oven to the ceiling so I can get the cable off of the wall and mount my cabinets flush.
And still need to finish hammer chiseling plaster down to the brick and then replaster the walls behind the sink and stove before finishing them with tile.
Oh and the wiring - original. Due to the original wood burning stove, they ran the wiring all the way around the other side of the room (along the ceiling and down to drops). This wiring is so old it's covered with stiff aluminum pipe. You actually need to cut it into pieces just to remove it.
Swmbo is always in a better mood after I give her something to do with her favourite tool - a 2 kilo smithy hammer!
I am grateful for the drywall walls here though drilling through these 30 year + old georgia pine boards has been a chore. I have never stripped more bits than I have on this.
Change to torx-head screws and you'll never strip another bit. They are absolutely wonderful. I've got a huge assortment of them in various lengths.
Change to torx-head screws and you'll never strip another bit. They are absolutely wonderful. I've got a huge assortment of them in various lengths.
Change to torx-head screws and you'll never strip another bit. They are absolutely wonderful. I've got a huge assortment of them in various lengths.
I use torx quite a bit on electronics, but I'm thinking of getting some Robertson bits/drivers for use on wood.
I am a supervisor in a cabinet shop, this is what we use almost exclusively
Went house hunting. Can't wait to upgrade from an apartment to a house, more room for brewing!
That's what we all would like to believe. The more space, the more junk.
Enter your email address to join: