What are my electric brewing options?

[wilserbrewer]

The US just needs to get on the 240V standard bandwagon and all these problems would be solved.

That ain't happening anytime soon, so in the meantime you can brew happily with the hot rod using your kitchen outlet, if sometime in the future you decide to go a different route, you can most likely sell your hot rod for 70 cents on the dollar....maybe more if they are back ordered due to demand

 

[bradleyhunt]

If it were me and I wanted to go electric in an apartment. I would make an extension cord to run from the dryer outlet to my control panel using locking connectors. I'd first check to make sure the dryer breaker is 30 amp. The longer the extension the larger the risk of heat. So, you will need to look at how long the run will be and us the correct gauge wire. I would not modify the apartment to add a spa panel. Opening yourself up to a huge liability.

If your sticking to 5 gallon batches 4500w or 5500w are about the same. I'm sure the 15# brain bubbas will chime in and tell you about watts and amps and time to boil. BLUF it's just a few minutes more or less for 5 gallon batches depending on the wattage.

I believe your BLUF is actually a BLOB. Bottom Line On Bottom.

Corpus Christie, "15# Brain Bubbas," BLUF statement. Turbo prop guy?

 

[LarMoeCur]

I believe your BLUF is actually a BLOB. Bottom Line On Bottom.

Corpus Christie, "15# Brain Bubbas," BLUF statement. Turbo prop guy?

Right more like a BLOB. Nope no flying for me but close (Air Traffic Controller).

 

[bradleyhunt]

Right more like a BLOB. Nope no flying for me but close (Air Traffic Controller).

Gotcha. I had a few buddies go down to Corpus for turbo pro training before going to the C-130.

 

[mjw210]

I'm planning on going ahead with the Hot Rod (got one while they were in stock) and a 2000W heating element. I've looked at how to hook it up, but now I'm a bit confused by the plug.

Looking at the circuit breaker, the kitchen circuit is labeled "20", so I know I have a 20 amp circuit. However, when I go into the kitchen, my GFCI outlets look like this rather than this. Does that mean I have a 15 amp outlet on a 20 amp circuit? Is that an issue?

Also, when purchasing the plug, can I purchase a 15 amp plug and still run my 2000W element (since the circuit it's on 20 amps), or do you need a corresponding 20 amp circuit to run the respective element?

What are my options at this point? I'd rather not drop down to a 1500W element to run on a 15 amp outlet if my circuit is set for 20 amps.

 

[WScottCross]

Looks like they installed a 15 amp receptacle. You could change the receptacle out for a 20 amp receptacle, but you should verify that they ran 12 gauge wire to it first. Not good to run 20 amps through 14 gauge wire. If it's 14 gauge wire, you're limited to 15 amps.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Looks like they installed a 15 amp receptacle. .

This has always confused me. Most homes that have the 20 amp kitchen circuits all have the standard 15A outlets. Most commercial locations have the 20A outlets that I have observed. As I understand it, the 20A outlet is for a dedicated circuit with only one outlet. I have run the 2000w elements on 20A circuits through the standard outlets for years without issue....as I understand it this is not a problem, the difference between a 15 and a 20 is the plug configuration.

It is a bit confusing in the research I've done.

 

[dyqik]

The reason is so you can run a couple of 10A appliances on one circuit at the same time without nuisance breaker trips, which then leads to people doing silly things, like taping the breaker on, or just replacing the breaker and not the wires.

 

[WScottCross]

But running 20 amps through 14 gauge wire causes it to heat up significantly and poses a fire hazard. That's why the code specifies 12 gauge or larger conductors for a 20 amp circuit.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Ok, but what about running 20a on a 20a circuit w 12 ga wire with a 15a outlet?

Running a 2000w element on a 20 a kitchen circuit w 12 ga wire through the standard 15a outlet, assuming one is not running other appliances on that same circuit, is this an issue?

 

[mjw210]

I talked with my apartment building and they said they'd install the new outlet if I purchased it, so I'll have a 20a one in the wall soon.

My next issue....where the hell do I find 12/3 wire that has a temperature rating above 100C?

EDIT: I think I've got it...seems like type SJOOW cables by design only go up to 90C, I need SJEOOW cables.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Hopefully your wire isn't seeing 100c, the element gets hot, the wires stay cold

 

[dyqik]

But running 20 amps through 14 gauge wire causes it to heat up significantly and poses a fire hazard. That's why the code specifies 12 gauge or larger conductors for a 20 amp circuit.

Yes. That's why kitchens are often wired with 12awg cable and 20A breakers, feeding (multiple) 15A outlets. So you can run two 10A appliances (or 15A + 5A etc.) on the circuit at the same time.

 

[mjw210]

Hopefully your wire isn't seeing 100c, the element gets hot, the wires stay cold

Using the heating element in the boil kettle, so the wires in the immediate vicinity of the element and the wire in the submerged portions will be experiencing very near to boiling temperatures (100C/212F). Don't want to mess around with potential shorts from melting insulation if I can help it, even if I am GFCI protected. 20 amps is nothing to mess around with.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I'm sorry, I completely forgot you were going with the hot-rod option.

You're looking for SJEOOW power cord:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Coleman-...-Seoprene-Bulk-Wire-Black-09605BL08/204667771

Should be in stock at most of the local hardware stores, but it isn't cheap. Bobby sells it at BrewHardware too.

I would shoot an email to Bobby and give him the $10 to pull the wire through for you. You'd save the headache, I think he pulls the wire before he bends the tubing

 

[Traz1986]

An often taken approach to lifting and pouring is using a pump. There are low cost options ...http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Elec...438344?hash=item25b724e4c8:g:3vwAAOSwll1WuUjW I used 3 of these pumps in my setup but you only need one with hose barbs or calmocks attached... they work very well as long as you use good filtration to keep grain and solid trub out of your wort.. For this reason they are not ideal for everyone... They come in 12v and 24v versions and are food grade and good with boiling temps.




EDIT** I agree the hotrod suggested above is a good suggestion.

How is that pump working out for you, what do you use to filter? How long do they last?

 

[augiedoggy]

How is that pump working out for you, what do you use to filter? How long do they last?

I have 3 installed in my brew system... they work very well Ive been using them for 3 years now and have well over 65 brew sessions on them. I did switch from the 12v versions to the better 24v versions about 2 years ago. I use a false bottom with a bazooka tube under it to catch what gets past it and then a braided stainless tube inside of the bazooka tube to act as a fine filter.
Works excellent and never had any sign of a slow or stuck sparge. or recirculation while using my rims.

 

[WScottCross]

Yes. That's why kitchens are often wired with 12awg cable and 20A breakers, feeding (multiple) 15A outlets. So you can run two 10A appliances (or 15A + 5A etc.) on the circuit at the same time.

Fair enough. I was just pointing out that it's something to check before trying to run more than 15A through the circuit.