cyanmonkey
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- Nov 9, 2014
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Surprised it didnt go higher on its own what temp was the surrounding air?
About 73 ambient.
Pitched about 1 million cells/mL, aerated for 60 seconds and added yeast nutrient. Should be some healthy yeast.
How did you add sugar? I added 3 lbs @ 10 minutes. Did you divide the 10 minutes, 0 minutes and in primary? I'm at 1.026 and showing signs of slowing down. Beersmith has me stopping at 1.017, which I typically blow past their target with Belgian yeasts, but I'm showing down fairly early.
Both attempts I added all of it at end of boil, attempt one used 3 pounds d-180 attempt two used 2.5 pounds. This yeast will also slow down if it cools once it hits the 80s you need to keep it there or it will crash. Well this is coming from a guy who had to add more yeast to get it to drop a few more points
I've brewed and fermented my Westy 12 clone, but I keg. My normal process is to force carb for 3-days and enjoy. With large beers (RIS) I force carb, let age for the 3-6 months required.
I'm assuming the same holds with this beer. Do I force carb and then let it sit in the keg for 8-12 months?
Thanks for all the information and wonderful tips - I'm looking forward to trying this beer in September 2016.
I noticed gets great around 6 months
Funny...I've noticed it gets grape for me after 6 months. I think someone else mentioned that but it really does...or did....i don't know now because i'm trying to have only 1 per month.
Ha! I thought grape was just a typo for great!
Funny...I've noticed it gets grape for me after 6 months. I think someone else mentioned that but it really does...or did....i don't know now because i'm trying to have only 1 per month.
I would really like to do this step. Problem being that my kettle borrows the stove outlet, and running the coleman while maintaining a boil is both not allowed on the balcony, but could have me running back and forth like a headless chicken. Has anybody tried to do this separately and add the boiled down portion to the fermenter instead of kettle? Exactly how optional is this part?CSI said:Clear wort boil-down notes (Optional Step):
-------------------
(Optionally) perform a separate boil-down of 1.00 gallon of vorlaufed wort into a syrup using the following steps:
1. Extract 1.0 gallon of wort at the beginning of clear runoff into a 3-5 gallon pot.
2. Boil the wort down until it becomes a dark mahogany brown and is bubbling with large bubbles.
3. Be careful NOT to burn the maltose syrup.
4. The result will be approximately 24-26 ounces of syrup.
5. Re-crash the syrup by adding wort from the ongoing main boil.
6. Pour the dissolved liquid back in to the main boil.
I've brewed and fermented my Westy 12 clone, but I keg. My normal process is to force carb for 3-days and enjoy. With large beers (RIS) I force carb, let age for the 3-6 months required.
I'm assuming the same holds with this beer. Do I force carb and then let it sit in the keg for 8-12 months?
That's basically my plan for the batch I will brew this weekend. The only difference is that I intend to bottle condition the beer in the keg instead of force carbing it. I expect to have it ready to serve next year by Christmas.![]()
Hands down best beer I've ever made. REALLY young and can already tell this is great.
Let it do its own thing and it got up to 83*F within 36 hours after pitching. Aerated for 60 seconds and pitched 1 million cells/mL. I get the cherry that CSI mentioned, but I have no sort of comparison to a real Westy. I just know this is great. A little phenolic and hot, but that will come down with time.
Hi everyone,
I might have missed it (just read all pages), but what do you use for bottle carbonation?
Which sugar and in which quantity?
Capped bottles or flip-top?
Thanks a lot !
Swing tops may be a bad idea for long term aging due to their oxygen permeability, especially if you use silicone gaskets.
I used swing top bottles to bottle my Westies a year ago, and have had no noticeable problems whatsoever. In fact, I question the concern about the use of swing tops, since the bottles are pressurized from inside, so it would seem impossible for any oxygen to get in even if the gaskets were permeable. Also, if the gaskets were permeable, one would expect to notice some loss of pressure, which I have not noticed. Even if a tiny amount did get out, there's still plenty of pressure in the bottle to keep oxygen out.
The only problem with using swing top bottles that I can see, is if the gaskets were old and dried out to begin with - then there might be significant leakage. But if fresh gaskets are used, I can't see there being any problem using them whatsoever.