Weldless Triclover Element?
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How well does either the solder on and the weldless stand up to heat from a propane flame. I assume you don't want to subject the weldess to the open flame since it's not easily removable. But will the solder on with a blank triclamp attached hold up against a propane flame?
tyzippers
Well-Known Member
Night-Man said:
Technically the solder version is weld less also. At any rate, dams long as you have liquid in the vessel above the highest level of the fitting, heat from propane flame will not be an issue. Due to the thermodynamic and heat transfer properties (which I really don't want to get into here, just trust me) of the liquid (water or wort) will not let the temperature of the solder joint get any higher than about 210F which is WELL below the melting point of the solder. There are no worries here! Now, if you dry fire the kettle for long enough to heat the joint to the melting point of the solder, (which is around 600F? Correct me if I'm wrong here.) then you could easily weaken he joint or perhaps actually melt the joint apart. Just don't EVER dry fire your kettle and you'll be just fine.
It's a port for an electric element. No propane flame is under the keggle.
[edit] Ah, I see you were responding to the post above yours. Carry on!
tyzippers
Well-Known Member
passedpawn said:
I see your point as well! This particular Tri Clamp solder fitting is specifically for straight threaded hearing elements. So you are right there would be no propane flame normally. However, some guys might want to go mobile and put a cap on the port to convert to propane. Either way, there should be no issue here! Good call though!
if you can find a step-bit that goes to 1-1/4" to 1-3/8" that MIGHT work depending on your element you plan to use. the Tri-Colver doesn't care what you used to make your hole, but just make sure that hole is large enough to allow your element to pass through it. if going with a straight element you might be able to get away with using a smaller hole as apposed to those using the squiggly elements.
-=Jason=-
srice
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Yep - that is exactly what we need - Come on Bobby, just one more fitting.
BadNewsBrewery
Well-Known Member
I've been keeping up with the thread, but maybe I missed it... I have already installed my 2 elements in the "traditional" weldless manner - drill a hole big enough to fit the element in, throw your O-ring and washer on the inside - success. I want to transition over to this design so I can actually pull my element out from time to time to clean it more thoroughly. I have no clue how big the hole for the element is now, but are there any thoughts on whether it would work?
Measure the diameter of your hole if it's less than 1-1/2 you should be good.
Just confirming...I used a cheapo harbor freight step bit, slow and steady with lubricating oil. The hole size was 1.25" and is a very snug fit for my single foldback element....nearly had to screw the element into the kettle.
If you have a ripple element you'll may need a bigger hole, maybe 1.5", but this is purely speculation. The harbor freight bit maxes out at 1-3/8" .
I'm testing the enclosure for water tightness today while at work, hope to test drive this weekend! Will post a pic later, psyched to be electric!!
Thanks Bobby!!
If you have a ripple element you'll may need a bigger hole, maybe 1.5", but this is purely speculation. The harbor freight bit maxes out at 1-3/8" .
I'm testing the enclosure for water tightness today while at work, hope to test drive this weekend! Will post a pic later, psyched to be electric!!
Thanks Bobby!!
OP
OP
You can use the EWL model between the element and the kettle with your current setup but then the whole weldless thing needs to come apart to clean the element.
You can alternatively solder on the new flange right over your current hole and then you have the triclover clamp removable element. That would be model ETC4S.
phlipot89
Well-Known Member
is the weldless triclover going to be available ever? or anytime soon? Ill take 3-6 of them lol
OMJ
Well-Known Member
Wow sold out quick
OP
OP
Do you mean the bolt-on version that I showed prototype pics of or the solder-on? I have no plans of the bolt on. I don't feel confident about the connection/seal if it's not perfectly installed.
The solder-on version is indeed sold out at the moment. That was really just a matter of underestimating how many we'd sell. I have plenty of the solder-on TC ferrules, I'm just temporarily out of the enclosures with the TC flange/1" NPSL adapter welded on. We'll have more in about 2 weeks. Anyone that wants to get a head start can get the solder on flange and get to installing that.
ChocolateMaltyBalls
Well-Known Member
I'm planning on installing the solder on version with the camco ripple element. The only thing is that my pot is 14" and from what I've been able to find that element is around 13 3/8." How much does the flange and enclosure off set the element? I'm hoping this will add a little room so it's not too tight a fit.
Thanks
Thanks
OP
OP
The solder flange brings you out about 1/2" so you should be good.
OP
OP
Done..
I had to drill out the back of the canister a tiny bit more to get the Powercon panel mount into the hole. With all the wiring hooked up, it's a pretty tight fit but I can verify that it fits. I had to be really picky with wire routing and I used the really flexible wires that you find in SOOW cord. Ring terminals crimped and soldered to the wire, etc...
The Switchcraft we've talked about is even easier as it's lower profile, but the build quality is night and day shoddy compared to Neutrik's version.
LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
Awesome! After I get my new MLT and HERMS set up, then I'll definitely be upgrading to these soldered tri-clover setups for my HLT and BK. Great job!
jeffmeh
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OP
OP
One crappy phone picture for now... You know, if the canister was just another 1/4" deep, it would even work to back mount the powercon flange for a cleaner look.
ChocolateMaltyBalls
Well-Known Member
That looks promising!
BTW with the solder flange, what are you using to clean up the joint and the area around it? I saw in the video you wiped up the burnt flux with a wet rag, are you just hitting it with a SS brush wheel?
BTW with the solder flange, what are you using to clean up the joint and the area around it? I saw in the video you wiped up the burnt flux with a wet rag, are you just hitting it with a SS brush wheel?
OP
OP
I used a sewn cotton wheel on the grinder with some polish. It really only took 30 seconds to clean it up.
jeffmeh
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OP
OP
No, unfortunately deviation from existing tooling will drive the cost way up.
jeffmeh
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Perfectly understandable, although unfortunate indeed.
perhaps you could build some sort of spacer to extend the length of the housing to accommodate the back mounted thingymajig.
edit: im thinking someone with Tig welding could cut in half the section that the cord mounts to and add some length of stainless and tig weld it all back together.
-=Jason=-
OP
OP
I think any access to a TIG welder would be able to fab something up even nicer than what I'm offering to begin with using raw materials. Another option is to go back to the larger sized canister that I originally supplied with the RIMS kits. Those would have more room but the overall package is larger than I liked.
I think I understand wanting an electrical disconnect at the element for when the element is installed with a locknut and gasket, but when you're using the triclover, you can just unclamp and remove the element and bring the pot over to your cleanup area. I can see having a pigtail hanging off the element as a minor inconvenience but it sure beats having it connected to the pot full time.
I think I understand wanting an electrical disconnect at the element for when the element is installed with a locknut and gasket, but when you're using the triclover, you can just unclamp and remove the element and bring the pot over to your cleanup area. I can see having a pigtail hanging off the element as a minor inconvenience but it sure beats having it connected to the pot full time.
jeffmeh
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Sure, there is always a way, but that would be a lot of extra work just to accommodate a back-mounted Neutrik connector. It wouldn't be worth it to me (subjective preference).
cpl-america
Well-Known Member
Hey bobby, just ordered this, didn't ask me for a shipping address. Should I be concerned?
LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
Good points. The pigtail might be the best way to go for a tri-clover setup.
At the end of the video you said you cleaned it up with a polishing wheel, can you show us what you used? This is the way im going for sure!
Edit: Never mind, reading further it says what you used
Weezy
Well-Known Member
Probably something like this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-buffing-wheel-34743.html
With some polishing compound/clay rubbed on it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-buffing-wheel-34743.html
With some polishing compound/clay rubbed on it.
OP
OP
Yes, just like that only I mount mine on a grinder. It doesn't take a lot to clean up the discoloration from heat and flux. Now, if you're really sloppy with the solder and it runs all over, that would be a bit more challenging. You'd probably want to use those 3M or "Gatorgrit" finishing pads to remove the stray solder. If you do it just like I showed in the video, that shouldn't be an issue.
cmpterman2
Member
I finally got around to drilling things out and soldering on the fitting.
I have to say that I'm very happy with the results. It was my first time soldering and after watching bobby's video, everything went smoothly.
Thanks goes to Bobby for both designing this and documenting the whole process. Very Awesome!
I have to say that I'm very happy with the results. It was my first time soldering and after watching bobby's video, everything went smoothly.
Thanks goes to Bobby for both designing this and documenting the whole process. Very Awesome!
OP
OP
Bravo! Proof that it can be done. AKA, I am not a wizard.
iijakii
Well-Known Member
On HBT I always see people saying you need TIG to do nice stainless welds; I have a good friend saying he can weld stainless with his MIG perfectly fine. Is he possibly telling the truth or should I just solder it in?
OP
OP
Why not give him a small square of 18 gauge stainless sheet and a coupling and ask him to prove it?
