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Welding 101 = Fun Brutus Build

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That brass hex bushing is NPT to NPT right? You have that screwed onto the orifice fitting, which is flare.

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Josh
 
Just relized I made the mistake on the first photo. Here is a corrected version. The 1/2 to 3/8 hex bushing goes into the 1/2 flare adapter, which then goes into the female end of the gas line.

I tried to not use the flare adapter and just connect the hex bushing to the hose. But for some reason it didnt fit. So the adapter was used. Which does come with the gas lines.

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I used some pipe dope.

Dude, be careful!

Brazing dissimilar threads together is one thing, but relying on rectorseal (especially for high pressure) seems like a time bomb. I'm no expert, but thread sealant is just not made for sealing dissimilar threads, and will undoubtedly leak in the future.

The gas hookup between the valve and orifice was a sticking point for my build as well. Here's a description of the connections I ended up with (mine is low pressure btw):

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-new-brew-system-brutus-10-some-nice-modifications-172927/index4.html#post2019660

--
Josh
 
The gas hookup between the valve and orifice was a sticking point for my build as well.

Yeah, it is a problem. I would of liked to use 3/8 but everything I looked at was rated for low pressure.
I dont like the fact about all the connections. A simple orifice to hose would be ideal. The other end would just be the gas valve, adapter then hose.

I used the dope pipe for piece of mind..But everything fits tight.

Im still looking around at different hoses. But I just might go ahead and hard pipe it (over time). As I indicated in one of the changes I might do. (If I ever do it)

Thanks for your concern. I believe that the homebrew community is such a great place. We all enjoy each others efforts and look out for the other..but the best part is the BREW!
 
Luckily for me morebeer has special orifices for my burners that terminate with 1/4" MPT instead of flare so I can easily use NPT threads without need for flare to NPT adpaters.
 
Not nearly as pretty as yours, but being my first welding adventure, I am very proud. Thank you for your tools/parts/dimensions list, and inspiring me to take this on. Still more to do, but nice to see it taking shape.

Please forgive the mess........

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Not nearly as pretty as yours, but being my first welding adventure, I am very proud. Thank you for your tools/parts/dimensions list, and inspiring me to take this on. Still more to do, but nice to see it taking shape.

Please forgive the mess........

Looking great! I would be proud also...as I was with mine.

How's that welder doing?
 
The welder is great, what a deal for $150. The frame is 1/8" square tubing, and it handles it no problem. For $50, the auto darkening helmut is a great addition also.
 
I had a question on the gas flexible hose. If the hookup on the hose is going directly out of the burner, is there any pressure built-up? If no pressure is built-up, then the .5 psi gas hose might work?
 
I had a question on the gas flexible hose. If the hookup on the hose is going directly out of the burner, is there any pressure built-up? If no pressure is built-up, then the .5 psi gas hose might work?

Yes, there is pressure built up. If I turn my burner all the way up to full blast, I start to get some of the flame from the propane coming out by the intake.
I'm just not certain of how much pressure it really is however, since I'm not an expert on this matter.

The hoses I use are rated for high pressure. Since the regulator is a high pressure regulator. I went with high pressure hoses.
I'm sure the LP hose you could use..but once again since everything else is high pressure (burners, regulator) why would you want to use LP hoses?
 
I know you answered this a few pages back, but I just wanted to be sure I read it correctly. In regards to the 1200 degree paint, is it holding up just fine, especially areas that are in direct contact with the flames?

Thanks again!
 
I know you answered this a few pages back, but I just wanted to be sure I read it correctly. In regards to the 1200 degree paint, is it holding up just fine, especially areas that are in direct contact with the flames?

Thanks again!

Yes, I dont have any problems with the paint..even after heating up my strike water and boiling the wort for 90 min..not a problem..
Direct flame not a problem.
 
So, what was the best guess final cost of your build?

I SO have brewers envy:mug:

I am so glad my wife has no idea about this forum, she would kill me for even thinking about building a Brutus:p
 
Welder and extra flux core wire: $200ish shipped
Auto darkening helmut: $60 shipped
14" chop saw plus 5 pack blades: $125
1.5" square tubing, 1/8" thickness: $150
Paint: $25

I already had an angle grinder and disks, so that is not included.

Total cost for the frame: $560

Keep in mind that the actual cost of the frame was only $195 (Steel, extra flux core wire and paint), but now I have a couple more cool tools to play with.
 
Yep, <$200, and no more :). I still need to mount the pumps and fittings/tubing, but I am just about done. Also shown is a kegerator I just picked up for $150 off CL, came with everything but the kegs.
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Im in the process of putting together a list of parts and the prices. As for the wife...well she didnt ask how much it cost. But the final answer is "yes honey, well ummmm under 200". :eek:

But to give an guestament. I would have to say over $500.. which Im including the welder i HAD TO BUY.
 
Yes, I dont have any problems with the paint..even after heating up my strike water and boiling the wort for 90 min..not a problem..
Direct flame not a problem.

What temp is the red paint you're using? Also do you think you needed to go that far down the tubing with the red paint? I am using 2000F paint for the top (your stand is the blueprint I used) and 500F yellow paint for the rest of the stand. I would like to go as high up as possible without burning the paint up. Do you think your stand gets 500F just a few inches down from the top?
 
What temp is the red paint you're using? Also do you think you needed to go that far down the tubing with the red paint? I am using 2000F paint for the top (your stand is the blueprint I used) and 500F yellow paint for the rest of the stand. I would like to go as high up as possible without burning the paint up. Do you think your stand gets 500F just a few inches down from the top?

WOW, sorry guys... I been gone awhile with spring/summer. The kids out of school etc. I just haven't had the time to catch up on these forums.
And know time to brew...:(

But to answer your question. The red paint used wasn't rated at all for high temp. It is just a basic enamel paint.

I went that far down because of this. But if you are using 500F paint for the bottom half. Then I would assume you will be OK.
You have to figure that there is still heat being distributed along the sides of the burner toward the frame. The frame will still get hot..Which mine did.
But the 500F paint should be enough. I would say a few inches in your case using the paint should workout. But I'm not an expert! ;)
 
Thanks Yankee. I guess I will just try it and if too hot then come down a few more inches.
 
this is one of the most inspiring threads in a while for a few reasons.

1) thats a sweet stand
2) I also wanted a reason to learn to weld
3) I also wanted another reason to go AG!
 
One more for you Yankee.

You used 16G steel for your rings. That seems pretty thick to bend by hand. Did you use some tool or is this something I should be able to bend around a 12.5" diameter cylinder?

Also once you got it there did it want to spring back out when trying to clamp and spot weld? Does this take like 3 people to do? Thanks.
 
A few more yankee.

1) How many cans of black and red spray paint would you say you used? I would think one was enough for the black and maybe 2 for the red?

2) When the kettles are on the stand, can you see the burners at all through the wind shield? I worry about not be able to see the flame to make sure it is the right color, etc.
 
Hi ghart,
I have built a stand that was a copy of this one. two cans of paint should do. I had a freind bend the rings for me at his shop, it was much easier that way. I used vice grips to hold the rings together while i tack welded. a extra set of hands might be needed but i didn't have a problem. when the kettles are on the burners you can use the openings on the skirting of the keg to view the burners.

hope this helps.
 
Sorry if this was already asked.

Your build inspired me. I bought the same welder and I've been living in the garage for weeks now. I am however getting a bit tired of grinding. I took a look back at your post and I noticed that your welds don't lift up off the material nearly as far as mine. Mine will raise about 1/2 or so. LOTS of grinding. My angle is pretty shallow I thought, I'd say something like 30 degrees off the surface. What did you do differently to get such low weld build up.

I am using .035 wire, 1/8 thick square tubing. 1.5x1.5 A tank could drive on this thing.

I think I might just go at it at a much shalower angle and run the bead faster to try and get the same effect.
 
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