Weld-in Fitting Size for Elec Elements?

[Bobby_M]

I sucked at geometry back in the day so I'm not standing on any sort of soap box but I don't think my method was wrong. To find the circumference of a circle, it's Pi * d. To turn that circumference into area (like you're extruding the circle upwards some dimension), you multiply C x H.

That would be the same if you had a line 10" long and then extruded it upwards 10" to create a plane that is 10 x 10 to get an area of 100 square inches. Roll that plane (sheet) into a cylinder with 10" circumference and 10" length.

The only time radius is invoked is when you need the area of a circle... which we don't care about in this case. I know it's included in formulas for volume of a cylinder. There are also formulas for surface area of a tube that can get you in trouble because it's accounting for the outer surface and inner surface.

 

[LBussy]

I get what you are saying - I think it's just a case of additive error. Here's one page that uses the same formula I learned, here is another. Common sense says it should be the same result.

I am not good at math (going back to why being a CE was a bad idea) so I always go look it up.

 

[Brewbuzzard]

I know it's a really cool trick to have one element cut off completely but it would be better to have both elements running 28% duty cycle than to have one element at 55%. Of course, I don't think it's worth it to switch if it will be a major hassle to do so. It's just that you'll have much lower watt density that way.

I never thought of that great idea. However, I have never had any scorching or darkening of the wort. It wouldn't be any trouble just change a perimeter for the alarm output. My system can only have two elements powered at the same time so I usually heat water in the HLT for clean up.

 

[RufusBrewer]

I'm

I think I'm going to go with the 2" simply because it gives me more room. Can't see a downside other than it's a couple of extra bucks.

Again, I like the idea of the integrated connector, I just see an issue with replacing an element vs the whole thing. If the integrated L6 was a serviceable part, that would be a no-brainer. Maybe I can do a "Kal" thing and integrate it.

I went with 1.5" TC because I perceive there is a greater selection and better inventory of things that fit 1.5" over the 2.0". And 1.5" accesories seem to be less expensive.

Of course, the choice is yours.

I prefer the 220 vac blades potted into place. Either it works when you get or it doesn't. Epoxy filled, it is well insulated and I do not worry about mechanical failure or things coming loose. Another, but that is just me.

 

[LBussy]

I prefer the 220 vac blades potted into place. Either it works when you get or it doesn't. Epoxy filled, it is well insulated and I do not worry about mechanical failure or things coming loose. Another, but that is just me.

So you pot them in place yourself? Care to share more?

 

[RufusBrewer]

So you pot them in place yourself? Care to share more?

I got mine from brewhardware. The blades look like the plug end of an L6 30 220 vac extension chord. Intead of rubber or plastic, the body looks to be resin epoxy.

The socket & plug mate flat surface to flat surface. There is the possibilty of liquid dribbling into the crack.

If I start to worry, i can make some sort of splash guard and prevent liquid from getting into the crack between the two connectors.

Maybe Bobby can provide a close up photo of the power plug end of his 5500 watt ripple end. He might cover the details in his video.

I could not be happier that I chose the 1.5" TC + integrated plug ripple element combination over all the alternatives.

I have a 5 foot L6-30 extension cord and a 10 foot cord. I can place my Brewcommander 5 or 10 from my power and use the other cord for the element.

 

[LBussy]

I got mine from brewhardware.

My mistake - I thought you did that yourself.

 

[RufusBrewer]

I am trying real hard to stay away from too much DIY. I am a compulsive tinkerer. If I can tweak and futz with something, I will. This one reason I went with a Brewcommander, not much to adjust, mif or tweak.

That is until some enterprising code writer offers up an aftermarket BC gui upgrade.

 

[LBussy]

I hear ya. It's always "well hell, I can just ... " and there goes the summer.

 

[LBussy]

I appreciate everyone's thoughts on this thread.

I am going with the 2" TC, simply because I have other TC fittings and parts and pieces and it makes sense not to add a third size even if it's a couple of bucks cheaper. There's going to be some interop between this and a tangential project where 2" is to be used.

 

[jcav]

I have 2 inch TC detachable plug elements on my 3 vessel e-herms rig and I am very happy I went with the 2 inch size. It also is a breeze to clean out the boil kettle (I have a Sabco Keg as a boil kettle) and flush everything out the large hole. Good luck with the build!

John

 

[LBussy]

Taking my keggle in to get welded tomorrow. I marked it so that the ferrule is more or less on the straight side portion, maybe 3/4" up from the weld where the collar is. Any reason why that's a good or bad idea?

 

[jcav]

Sounds good. I just measured mine for you and I have the bottom of the ferrule one inch above the bottom weld/seam of the keg, just above the keg skirt.

John

 

[LBussy]

Thanks, John. Seems like where I have it will work then.

 

[jcav]

You are going to love electric brewing! Also the concave bottom of the keggle is awesome when you whirlpool, as the hop particles, cold break, etc. really move to the middle of the bottom of the kettle and a short dip tube will grab all of the wort. The wort will be very clear and barely any of the stuff you want to leave behind will make it into your fermenter. Good luck tomorrow on the welds!

John

 

[LBussy]

This one is “brewing related” but my experience will guide my electric brewery trajectory. I‘ve been brewing for so long its hard to imagine my beer getting demonstrably better for the switch, but making a brew day easier is definitely attractive.

 

[jcav]

True if you already nailed the system you brewed on previously and make great beer then you probably won't see a big difference. However, temps will be held perfectly and effortlessly, ramping to the next temp in a step mash is very easy and there is no temp overshoot. This makes repeatability on making the same recipe over again and come out the same way a big benefit, so your beer will actually get better. Also no more excessive hot heat wash from the vessels if you use propane (to heat up the area), and electric is a lot quieter. I think it is much more convenient to use electric and it is a pleasure to brew on an electric rig. You won't look back I know I don't!

John

 

[LBussy]

Oh it's gonna be convenient for sure!

I did an honest double-decocted Doppelbock back in ... 1997 I think it was? Have not done one since. THAT is how much work beer can be!

 

[passedpawn]

I appreciate everyone's thoughts on this thread.

I am going with the 2" TC, simply because I have other TC fittings and parts and pieces and it makes sense not to add a third size even if it's a couple of bucks cheaper. There's going to be some interop between this and a tangential project where 2" is to be used.

I have 2” TCs welded onto my pots. Ports and 5500W elements from brew hardware. Years later not one issue and love them. I went larger cause why not? Much easier to get ripple elements in.

 

[LBussy]

Bobby asked me to post a pic of the weld when I got it back:



As he pointed out there is absolutely no reason not to solder or braze these for most uses. I was already having some stuff done though, so welding these on was easy.