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Vissani Fermentation Chamber

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Daver77 said:
16 watts what do you think?

It may be too low, depending upon how cold it gets where you have your chamber. The flexwatt that I'm using is 40 watts. I have my chamber in the garage where the temp drops to the mid 40's.
 
ingchr1 said:
It may be too low, depending upon how cold it gets where you have your chamber. The flexwatt that I'm using is 40 watts. I have my chamber in the garage where the temp drops to the mid 40's.

I agree. Any reason you can't use a wrap style heater?
 
Okay, possible stupid question. If you are using a temp controller, why is it necessary to bypass the fridge's thermostat? Isn't that what a temp controller is all about? I am guessing that is becuase the wine fridge has a lower limit so that wine folks don't freeze their wine. I plugged my Ranco temp controller in and the lowest it would go is the 50 degrees that it already could go when I had it on setting 7. Thanks for the help...(I am still a little wary of messing with the wiring)
 
OK what about the 24 watt? that's what I'm getting. My basement is cool and dry with the de humidifier on I think it will work.
 
Okay, possible stupid question. If you are using a temp controller, why is it necessary to bypass the fridge's thermostat? Isn't that what a temp controller is all about? I am guessing that is becuase the wine fridge has a lower limit so that wine folks don't freeze their wine. I plugged my Ranco temp controller in and the lowest it would go is the 50 degrees that it already could go when I had it on setting 7. Thanks for the help...(I am still a little wary of messing with the wiring)

Bypassing the thermostat causes the fridge to cool whenever it has power. Using the external temp controller, the fridge will run as long as you want allowing it to cool below 50.
 
I finished my build today. Thanks again for everyone's pics and comments.

Only one thing seems odd: the light inside the fridge doesn't turn on, though the compressor runs whenever the fridge is plugged in thanks to the thermostat bypass.

Edit: forgot a couple of things that might help other builders.

- I used a 6x6x4 junction box.

- There was no room for a blue outlet enclosure inside this size box, but I did not miss it.

- The outlet's two screws bit just fine in the grey plastic, once I gave them a pilot hole.

- I suggest using spade terminals for easier connections at the outlet. Note that you cannot use ring terminals because the screws on an outlet are captive.

- I used 16 ga. stranded copper wire for the interior wiring. At 110V, it should carry 13A--and the supply is fused at 10A, and the cooler draws less than that anyway, so there should be adequate current capacity for the heat/cool hookups. (There is a stranded wire current capacity chart on this page: http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/WireCapacityChart.htm)
 
Horseflesh said:
Only one thing seems odd: the light inside the fridge doesn't turn on, though the compressor runs whenever the fridge is plugged in thanks to the thermostat bypass.

By bypassing the thermostat from outside the fridge the light also gets bypassed.
 
Thanks. Good to know I did not mess that up.

Say, what are you folks using for the precision parameter? The default of 0.5C seems like it might cycle the compressor quite a bit, even with that configurable delay.
 
dunrooz said:
Okay, possible stupid question. If you are using a temp controller, why is it necessary to bypass the fridge's thermostat? Isn't that what a temp controller is all about? I am guessing that is becuase the wine fridge has a lower limit so that wine folks don't freeze their wine. I plugged my Ranco temp controller in and the lowest it would go is the 50 degrees that it already could go when I had it on setting 7. Thanks for the help...(I am still a little wary of messing with the wiring)

TonyR said:
Bypassing the thermostat causes the fridge to cool whenever it has power. Using the external temp controller, the fridge will run as long as you want allowing it to cool below 50.

I was about to asked the same thing. I actually have the same setup. I just plugged the fridge into the temp controller as well as my heating pad because I don't lager. At least I don't lager yet ( as soon as I find a lager I like, I may try to make one) I leave my fridge on 6 and its gets plenty cold enough for my ales. One thing I did notice about this unit in the summer though is that the outside can get very hot if you are in a garage or area that the ambient temp is pretty warm like say 90-100 for a time. Here in Northern California, I had to take it out of commission for a while and switch to a temp controlled freezer because I was worried this unit would overheat. Great build by the way and the one thing I love about this unit is being able to see through the amber glass in front to check on my fermentation.

image-988907489.jpg
 
For those of you using plastic/glass carboys - do you cover the door with an additional light blocker or is the tinting of the glass sufficient?
 
For those of you using plastic/glass carboys - do you cover the door with an additional light blocker or is the tinting of the glass sufficient?

I don't worry about, all though mine is in the garage where it's not exposed to direct sunlight.
 
I cut a piece of 1/2" thick foam that fits against the front glass, big enough that it fits within the seal but does't move. After I added this, I stopped getting condensation on the glass.
 
Carlscan26 said:
For those of you using plastic/glass carboys - do you cover the door with an additional light blocker or is the tinting of the glass sufficient?

That's a great question. Whenever I ferment in a bucket I never worry about it. But I also do small batches where my fermenters are clear and when they are in there, I put foil or a towel over the front just to be safe.
 
Hops are affected by sunlight, so unless you're making hopless beer or enjoy skunky beer, I'd suggest doing what the others have done and cover up the glass.
 
barrooze said:
Hops are affected by sunlight, so unless you're making hopless beer or enjoy skunky beer, I'd suggest doing what the others have done and cover up the glass.

Agreed, if sunlight was getting to mine I'd cover the glass.
 
Agreed, if sunlight was getting to mine I'd cover the glass.

Is it any wavelength of light or specifically UV? I also don't get any direct sunlight in my garage but just to be safe I cover mine with two layers if black plastic. But I guess I'm curious because if its ok for wine would the uv filtration be sufficient for beer too?
 
Carlscan26 said:
Is it any wavelength of light or specifically UV? I also don't get any direct sunlight in my garage but just to be safe I cover mine with two layers if black plastic. But I guess I'm curious because if its ok for wine would the uv filtration be sufficient for beer too?

Good point! I wonder if it is good enough with just the glass? I don't know anything really about wine so I don't know if wine oxidizes or not? But I always just did it as an extra precaution because I didn't know. Time to google and see what I find
 
Light

Strong, direct sunlight or incandescent light can adversely react with phenolic compounds in wine and create potential wine faults. Delicate, light-bodied white wines run the greatest risk from light exposure and are often packaged in darkly tinted wine bottles that offer some protection from the light.

So, it seems the dark bottles offer most of the protection with maybe some of the glass also offering up some protection. So, since I still am not convinced, I'll leave mine covered with clear fermenters and uncovered with buckets!
 
Light

Strong, direct sunlight or incandescent light can adversely react with phenolic compounds in wine and create potential wine faults. Delicate, light-bodied white wines run the greatest risk from light exposure and are often packaged in darkly tinted wine bottles that offer some protection from the light.

So, it seems the dark bottles offer most of the protection with maybe some of the glass also offering up some protection. So, since I still am not convinced, I'll leave mine covered with clear fermenters and uncovered with buckets!

Thanks!
 
I just bought this model and plan to use it with no mods has anyone done this and had sucess. It will be indoors at an ambient temp of 75 degrees.
 
Yup, I use mine with no mods and it works great. I just set the temp to the lowest setting and use a Control Products TC-9102D-HV to regulate the temperature. For heating I taped a 150 watt reptile cable heater to the inner walls using Gorilla Tape.
 
Have my first brew in it and am maintaining 70 degrees on setting 4 its sweet! Brewing an amber ale.
 
Lumpyyyyy said:
Does the aquarium controller usually come with a sensor or is buying your own recommended?

The STC-1000 does. I have two and they work great
 
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